If anyone out there has any contact info for Harlan besides email, please send me an email or PM with it. I'm thinking one of you VI guys has to have something. I've been trying unsuccessfully to get in contact with him via email (the email addy I have is turbohawk80@yahoo.com). Does anyone know if perhaps he's on vacation, away on business, etc?

Any assistance is GREATLY appreciated.

 

I can look in my VI instructions when I'm at my parents tomorrow. Maybe it is in there.

 

Matthew Harlan
Waterford, MI
(248) 366-6252

Went to one of his sites, www.camaroz28.com , and searched for his name on their, which is y2khawk. In his profile it stated that he lives in Waterford, MI. So I called 411 and got his number.

BTW, you owe me 75 cents.....

 

man if that is not internet whoring I do not know what is




BTW keven97se, You posted some great info once for me, so i will take car of the 75 cent to ramius

erik- come by friday night and I will pay you fool

 

Nah, its all good, I was just joking with the guy. Besides, 75 cents can't even buy me a 20 minute phone call from 10-10-220 or 1-800-CALL-ATT.......

 

Good find on the info guys

BTW Keven Murphy_TX_Mike is having problems with his Harlan too, and
he hasn't gotten any response back.

Luckily I have 2 Harlans from 2 separate batches and no problems thus far.
-hype

 

My Harlan switch is hit and miss.


Dave

 

I am just curious how you know?

I saw your posts about the track.. but other than dyno'ing.. the is no way to keep the car still and actually have the system work on a normal basis and be able to see it.


BTW- when I was on the dyno Ifound that my NAPA cannister check valve was only working about a 1/4 of the time...

I put a normal check valve in the middle right in line with the hose connected to the canister and I have had zero problems sense

Just might be worth checking

I was able to blow and suck ( everyone leave me alone ) on the hose with the check valve..that is how I found it was bad

my 2 cents

 

Pop your hood and rev and you'll see the actuator arm go down. Another simple test is to wire a LED inside the car that is on the ground the Harlan activates (with the wire running to the Map switch).
When I had my original Harlan problems (tach died when the Harlan was connected to the cluster) I knew I wanted to know when the Harlan was and wasn't activated. It's great peace of mind for only a few dollars.
-hype

 

Thank you, Mr Stalker!

j/k thanks for digging that up. That will REALLY help me.

 

Thanks for covering me, yo

 

I wired an LED to the rpm switch and put it in the car so I can see when the rpm switch is working and not. It always works in first, but not always in second...I am not sure what the deal is.

 

hype & 96sleeper have either one of you dyno tuned?

The reason I ask is that is where I found ALL of my problems... it cost me a little money, but I know with confidence my setup works everytime

And I know about reving the motor in Neautral... But that does not simulate stoping shifting gears and all of that.

I had some harlan switch problems myself, but they have since sleared ..and I did not do anyting to fix them... KNOCKS on wood hoping the problems do nto come back


keven-I got YO back Hommie

 

kinda like a shift light?

 

When my Harlan switch gets confused, it's LED light will flash constant. I can check the switch while the car is rolling because my switch is mounted in the dashboard fuse box.

I've checked my vacuum canister manually blowing air in and out and it seems to work fine. It takes a second for the check valve to start working, but when it does, all is good. When I turn my car off and release the vacuum line to the MAP switch, the tank makes a "whooosh" which means it was holding vacuum. He that said, I think I'll get an inline check valve just to be safe.

When my VI opens, I hear a definate change in intake tone (2nd and 3rd gear). That's how I know it's working without looking at the switch. Oh and the RPMs fly like crazy after 5000rpms.



Dave

 

I dont know much about the VI setup (yet) but this Harlan switch is it just an RPM activated switch? If so, arent there other ones that can be used if this one is so flaky?

How much does one of these things cost anyway?

 

Yes, MSD for one makes an rpm switch, but it's bigger, bulkier, more expensive, and requires separate rpm plug-in "pills" to set the rpm switch. The Harlan is very small, less expensive, and has dip switches to set the rpms. Unfortunately they don't operate reliably and Harlan gives terrible customer service that, in my case, borders on fraud.

If I could do it all over again, I would have purchased an MSD without question.

 

yes, except it comes on and stays on from 5000 rpm - 6600rpm, just to let me know if the switch is working. I need a shift light though, because I have never hit the rev limiter so much in my life as I do with the VI now, the rpms move too fast.

 

bags I haven't dynoed yet, but I do plan to. I had to resolve an exhaust leak that delayed me for a while. My VI has always activated and I can definitely hear a change in intake sound when it kicks in.

My situation is different, but I have never had my Harlan not activate. I have 2 Harlans wired to be a 1) MEVI indicator light and 2) a shift light. The Harlans were ordered about 2 months apart, so I know they came from different batches.

Murphy_TX_Mike has had problems with one his Harlans (he has 2). One of my Harlans was ordered with one of his, and both continue to work. I believe Mike's second Harlan is from the same batch as Keven's so maybe that whole batch had a bad Eprom.
-hype

 

I don't know what your guys are doing to get the problem. Where are you tapping in to get the RPM signal from...myself I took it straight from the spark plug, I also decided against a Relay...just wired it straight to the battery and grounded the sucker. I haven't had any problems with it and I've had it for over 4 months.

-John

 

I've tied into the signal off the coil and from the ECU and got the same problem with the rpm switch each time. I sent the switch back to Harlan and he was able to duplicate the same thing I saw repeatedly. He said he thought either the EEPROM chip was bad or there was an intrinisic problem with the program he burned on it. My problem was definitely a problem with the unit and not due to the hook up.

BTW the switch will work with the spark output signal from the ECU (any of the cylinders). My switch would work for 2 switches then flake out.

 

Cool...well at least that means he figured out the problem...possibly he had a few RPM switches that he might have burned wrong...but at least he knows what it might be so he can fix it. So, therefore I would assume that the product would have the bugs worked out for that batch that didn't work out to well for people. Just my thoughts,

John

 

I'd like to agree with you, but unfortunately I don't. I haven't heard a word from Harlan since he gave me that little bit of info, which is why I'm posting here, as he's not responding to repeated attempts to contact him. I doubt he's nailed down the problem because I suspect he'd have sent a repaired unit or a new unit back to me already.

I would stay away from Harlan products. Just my opinion.

 

I totally hear what your saying, leaves a bad taste in your mouth. But, on the upside he did tell me and another guy that is buying some RPM switches from him that he was getting new materials in. And should ship them this weekend. Have you given him a call to see what he says yet???

-John

 

Well this sucks because I just realized that I'm having the EXACT problems Keven did and apparantly Keven hasn't gotten his switch back after months???? Check out my post from tonight about my switch. I get one or two activations and then nothing. It's good to know that there is a problem. I guess I'll be getting in touch with Harlan ASAP.

Dave