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Stillen brake kit? Good kit or is there a better kit for the money.

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Old Oct 9, 2002 | 10:26 AM
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Stillen brake kit? Good kit or is there a better kit for the money.

If you have the stillen brake kit can you post your opinions/facts.

Does it stop the car better?

have they prematurely stress cracked?

hows the brake dust w/the axis metal matrix pads.


I am about to order a brake kit. ME VI will be my last Mod.
Old Oct 9, 2002 | 11:06 AM
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Yes they definately stop the car better.

Stress cracks? There Brembo rotors, modified by Stillen. The reports of cracking x-drilled rotors came from guys who do auto-x racing and really cooked them. It was an extreme use condition. These brakes are silky smooth, I highly recommend them. A great upgrade from stock. And they look great too.

The dust is much lighter then the stock pads. It's kind of a metalic grey dust and not nearly as heavy as the OEM rusty colored brake dust.



Old Oct 9, 2002 | 11:13 AM
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uhh..is it me or are those rotors on backwards

and jay get slotted vise cross drilled

and try and skip stillen and get them from brembro or someone else
Old Oct 9, 2002 | 11:14 AM
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You're not talking about the big brake kit are you Jaime?


If you're talking about just the regular cross drilled Stillen rotors, I think it's a good buy. And guess what? Mine just came in today! I ordered it from JRNissan. Very good price.
Old Oct 9, 2002 | 11:26 AM
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Originally posted by Cumalot
You're not talking about the big brake kit are you Jaime?


If you're talking about just the regular cross drilled Stillen rotors, I think it's a good buy. And guess what? Mine just came in today! I ordered it from JRNissan. Very good price.
heck no not the big brake kit. If I wanted a BB kit I would have bought Mings kit for a good price. Just the basic stillen kit,how much did you get your 4 rotors, 4 sets axis pads, SS brake lines and the motul oil?


NJ those look very nice those are the ones I want to get. He posted the pics above.
Old Oct 9, 2002 | 11:32 AM
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Originally posted by JAY25


how much did you get your 4 rotors, 4 sets axis pads, SS brake lines and the motul motor oil?

I didn't get the whole set. I just got the front and rear rotors. I already have aftermarket pads, so no need for them right now. Besides, that was all I could afford to get. I would like to have got the whole complete set, but can't afford it. I want to get the Stillen rotors primarily because they look pretty good. When I put my new wheels on, I don't want to have the stock rear rotors on. I have the front Brembo rotors, I don't really like them. Rust developed on the Brembo rotors. Hopefully the Stillen rotors will be much better.


I got the front and rear rotors for $340 shipped. Pretty good I think.
Old Oct 9, 2002 | 11:41 AM
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Originally posted by Cumalot



I didn't get the whole set. I just got the front and rear rotors. I already have aftermarket pads, so no need for them right now. Besides, that was all I could afford to get. I would like to have got the whole complete set, but can't afford it. I want to get the Stillen rotors primarily because they look pretty good. When I put my new wheels on, I don't want to have the stock rear rotors on. I have the front Brembo rotors, I don't really like them. Rust developed on the Brembo rotors. Hopefully the Stillen rotors will be much better.


I got the front and rear rotors for $340 shipped. Pretty good I think.
I am getting the kit for $540 plus shipping 4 stillen rotors, 2 sets of pads for front and rear the four SS steel lines and the two bottles of Motul oil.
Old Oct 9, 2002 | 01:47 PM
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Originally posted by JAY25


I am getting the kit for $540 plus shipping 4 stillen rotors, 2 sets of pads for front and rear the four SS steel lines and the two bottles of Motul oil.
Good deal Jay! The install is pretty straight forward too. Make sure you follow the bedding in instructions that comes with the rotors. Even after the initial bedding in procedure, it takes about 300 miles until you really start to feel their performance. What I like the best about these brakes is the plating. They will never rust so the hub stays nice and clean looking. It's also a good time to paint your calipers for a really nice finished look.

Don't forget to take your caliper guide pins out, clean and regrease them. Use high temp grease on them. Also make sure you either reuse or get new shims. Without shims your brakes will squeal.

Good luck with the install.

Tom
Old Oct 9, 2002 | 01:55 PM
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Originally posted by njmaxseltd



What I like the best about these brakes is the plating. They will never rust so the hub stays nice and clean looking. It's also a good time to paint your calipers for a really nice finished look.


See I did not like that about these brake rotors... I have rims that show every inch of the rotor..and the gold does not go with the rest of my car...

that's why I painted them
Old Oct 9, 2002 | 04:35 PM
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Originally posted by njmaxseltd

Good deal Jay! The install is pretty straight forward too. Make sure you follow the bedding in instructions that comes with the rotors. Even after the initial bedding in procedure, it takes about 300 miles until you really start to feel their performance. What I like the best about these brakes is the plating. They will never rust so the hub stays nice and clean looking. It's also a good time to paint your calipers for a really nice finished look.

Don't forget to take your caliper guide pins out, clean and regrease them. Use high temp grease on them. Also make sure you either reuse or get new shims. Without shims your brakes will squeal.

Good luck with the install.

Tom

I'm going to paint my calipers since the calipers have to be taken off anyway. Since nobody want to buy my Foliatec brake caliper paint set, I guess I'm going to use it. It's black btw.
Old Oct 9, 2002 | 06:48 PM
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I opened up the package, the rotors looked pretty good.


So, should I clean them a bit with something or could they be install right away? Do I need to put any type of anti-seize on the hub area? I heard someone that did it and said it was better for the rotors?
Old Oct 9, 2002 | 08:29 PM
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phucking boat/dock strike!!

im still waiting on my front rotors.

som fat guy is probably sitting on them.

i need to get them on soon, my oems are starting to squeal.
Old Oct 10, 2002 | 04:47 AM
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i have the whole setup except for the syn oil..


the pads suck at first(till you break them in) then are great.

i have slotted.


break dust is minimal till abnout half way then they dust...alot
Old Oct 10, 2002 | 05:36 AM
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Originally posted by Cumalot
I opened up the package, the rotors looked pretty good.


So, should I clean them a bit with something or could they be install right away? Do I need to put any type of anti-seize on the hub area? I heard someone that did it and said it was better for the rotors?
Just install them and follow the bedding in procedure that came with them. I don't think you need any anti seize, all but one of my OEM's just popped right off. Can't hurt though..
Old Oct 10, 2002 | 03:35 PM
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Well I just finished installing the Stillen rotors. Took longer than I thought.


Is the gold plating(forgot what it's called)suppose fad so quick? I just took a test drive and the gold plating is almost gone. The braking surface area is what I'm talking about. The hub area is still fine.


I didn't change the brake fluid. I noticed that I had to depress the brake pedal down further in order to brake. When I step on it lightly, it doesn't brake at all. What does this mean? Need to bleed my brakes? Is that how you change the brake fluid? Thanks.
Old Oct 10, 2002 | 03:44 PM
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Originally posted by Cumalot
Well I just finished installing the Stillen rotors. Took longer than I thought.


Is the gold plating(forgot what it's called)suppose fad so quick? I just took a test drive and the gold plating is almost gone. The braking surface area is what I'm talking about. The hub area is still fine.


I didn't change the brake fluid. I noticed that I had to depress the brake pedal down further in order to brake. When I step on it lightly, it doesn't brake at all. What does this mean? Need to bleed my brakes? Is that how you change the brake fluid? Thanks.
I got mine installed and I can already feel a difference. I have no tbeen able to get my wheels on, so I only have the stellies. But you can catch a glimpse of the painted caliper and the rotors. I got the SS lines and used the Motul B Fluid and got all new rotors. I think they work well. I have not done any hard braking, but it does feel much better.
Old Oct 10, 2002 | 04:02 PM
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Online pricelist or Excel

For those of you interested in Stillen brake parts, here is a link to my online pricelist.

www.agawamcomputers.com/maxima.htm

Or E-mail me for an excel format.

Ken
Old Oct 10, 2002 | 09:40 PM
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The cadmium plating is not very wear resistant. It'll be worn away from the friction surface of the rotors after a few days. The rest of the rotor will be rusty looking (just like non-cad plated) in a few months.

You don't have to change all the fluid but you should bleed the air out. You must bleed the whole system if you changed to SS lines. Spongy pedal could be air in the system. Increased pedal pressure could also mean pads have not seated yet.

Originally posted by Cumalot
Well I just finished installing the Stillen rotors. Took longer than I thought.


Is the gold plating(forgot what it's called)suppose fad so quick? I just took a test drive and the gold plating is almost gone. The braking surface area is what I'm talking about. The hub area is still fine.


I didn't change the brake fluid. I noticed that I had to depress the brake pedal down further in order to brake. When I step on it lightly, it doesn't brake at all. What does this mean? Need to bleed my brakes? Is that how you change the brake fluid? Thanks.
Old Oct 10, 2002 | 09:45 PM
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Originally posted by Sly
The cadmium plating is not very wear resistant. It'll be worn away from the friction surface of the rotors after a few days. The rest of the rotor will be rusty looking (just like non-cad plated) in a few months.

You don't have to change all the fluid but you should bleed the air out. You must bleed the whole system if you changed to SS lines. Spongy pedal could be air in the system. Increased pedal pressure could also mean pads have not seated yet.


Thanks for the info. I'm going to bleed the the brakes and see if that help the spongy brake pedal feel.
Old Oct 11, 2002 | 05:38 PM
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thats some good info sly just posted right there. Good post.
Old Oct 11, 2002 | 06:05 PM
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YOU ARE INCORRECT
that is the correct direction for the X drilled







Originally posted by bags533
uhh..is it me or are those rotors on backwards

and jay get slotted vise cross drilled

and try and skip stillen and get them from brembro or someone else
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