Hey guys,

I wanted to see if I can find more information on this. Everyone know how our stock exhuast manifold setup is kinda funky. I've been thinking of some performance gains that can be done with the exhaust. Couldn't we put in some 3rd gen VG performance headers, and performance y-pipe on our car? I was looking under my car, and it seems there may be the room. It would mean we would have to gut the existing manifold, crosspipe, downpipe, flex pipe and a good section of the pipe before the cat. Question is, those anyone know if this is possible. It probably would give us some decent gains if we do it.

S

 

What are you going to do with the oil filter? I wanted to do this about 3 years ago and I came to the conclusion that the oil filter must be moved to run a 3rd gen type exhaust setup. Our downpipe isn't really that restictive as 3rd/4th gen versions are. However I still have my front manifold left and I just took some measurements. The ID of the downpipe is about 45mm or 1.75in and IIRC the collector is like 2in to the cat. In this thread below Dave B posts about the OD of the stillen and WSP Y pipe. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....rel#post736460

I believe a custom downpipe that is the same OD as the WSP Y pipe might have gains. However I sent a downpipe to cattman years ago and he said it would cost me around $500-600 to get a SS version made . However I'm sure you can contact WSP and work something out, all I know is that if I still had my 87 max it would have some WSP subframe connectors and probably a downpipe if I didn't go turbo. As for the exhaust manifolds its SOL. The front wouldn't be hard however the rear would have to be run like stock is.

 

You know whether I do this or not, I want to get the oil filter to somewhere else. It's already a PITA just to change the filter. I wonder if there are any performance headers and downpipes for the Z31 300zx, since the exhuast routing is the same with the exception of the downpipe....hmmm oh well.

S

 

Yup pacesetter, MSDS, Motorsport auto all have headers for the Z31. The problem is the rear bank, on the maxima it is just like how the Z31 exhaust is. With headers it is basically like the 3rd gen setup and is there enough clearance to even fit a header down there? Here are some pics of VG headers below. However I'm sure you can get a custom downpipe made cheap. All you need is the gasket from the front manifold to the exhaust pipe, then you trace it on some metal that is around 1/4in thick. Drill out the 2in secondaries and the 3 bolt holes, get a dual 2in to 2.5in coupler and the muffler shop can do the rest. Figure $100 in parts and $100-300 labor.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...em=1873256831o

 

I think you can gain access from the bottom of the car is you remove the flex pipe, and the engine mount. Looks like the upper bolts will be a pain in the ***, but it looks possible.

S

 

Its a tight fit, I'd just worry about the custom downpipe though. The headers would add so much more drama and not much more power. Besides you should dyno your car now to get a good baseline. Since yours is a 5spd I'm interested to see how much power it makes. My 87se auto did 112whp/140wtq with just K&N panel and timing advance.

 

I am curious to know where do you go to get a dyno reading? I still have a stock (very stock) setup and it is a 5 spd. To clarify, where around the Seattle/Tacoma area would I have to take my car to get it dyno read?

 

You can go here http://www.dynojet.com/lauto.shtml to find a local dyno shop. Prices range from $55-75 for baseline pulls (2-3) and generally $100-150 per hour for tuning. All you will need is the baseline pulls. Also bring a floppy disk so you can save the dyno runs. Before you go make sure the car is running good and all fluids are topped off. You might want to bump your base ignition timing to 24*BTDC too. Here is the proper procedure for advancing the base timing right click and save the pic http://www.geocities.com/nismo87se/Idleset.jpg.

 

The site for advancing the base timing dosen't work........

 

copy and paste into browser, and remove that lil extra (period) at the end of jpg and it will work

~mike