Guys;

I just bought a new sony head unit and 4 Infinity speakers for my 99 SE to replace my BOSE system. The guy that did the install (@ Future Shop) plugged the speakers into the existing bose amps... he said he always does that and it would be fine. From my research, I thought that was the big problem with replacing the Bose stereo, that you had to bypass the amps or by special adapters (which he obviously didn't install). By the time I noticed, he was already done... so I tested it and it sounds wayy too loud. The highs are too high and even with the volume off I hear a hissing sound from the speakers.

What should I do?? The install is fully covered under warranty, so should I bring it back and argue with him? If I do, what should I tell him to prove to him that he's wrong and what should I tell him to do, in other words a quick way to bypass the amps. He said that in order to bypass the amps, he would need to completely re-wire the car and that would cost lots of $$... I don't believe him, but don't know enough about it to tell him what he could do instead.

Help needed here, I want to get this over with ASAP and not let it drag on.



Thanks.

 

if he wired it up to whea he is powering the bose amp and using it...then he had just amplify the audio twice...thus the hissing noise cuz the bose amp also amplifying the noise...it would be best to run speaker wires from head unit to speakers...and it shouldn't be too much work and shouldn't cost too much money...but if he say that he will charge u a shiet load...u can just tell him to bypass the bose amp...and this can be simply done...tell him to disconnect all four bose amp from it's connector...each connector should have 4 wires...power and ground...and two for audio...just tell him to splice into the audio wires and run it to speaker w/ the amp disconnected from harness....

 

Hi;

Is that why the sound is so high pitched and there's pratically no bass?? It's as though the tweeters are going nuts and the bass only kicks in for really low sounds.

How do you disconnect the amp from the harness? After this experience, I don't want to assume that this guy knows anything about Bose systems.

Thanks for your help.

 

this is only my assumption that he powered the bose amp...but it could also be that he didnt' power the bose amp which puts this install in question could u even get audio to pass thru...but wateva the case...find a buddy that is half knowledgeable to help u...i can walk u thru it thru e-mail or wat not...even on here if need be...

 

*(@#$(*&!@

I called the store (Future Shop), talked to different install "specialists" and they want to charge me 100$ to run brand new wires from the HU to all 6 speakers, they said they couldn't splice into the existing because something that had to do with Bose and "common ground"...? I don't know enough to argue this... Help!

 

If their install came with a warranty, then take it back and have them redo the install right. You should have to pay an extra 100 dollars to repair a "warranty" job. If they want to add their labor cost to cover for their incompentance, sue them.

 

common ground my ***...each harness to the bose amp has four wires...power and ground then two for audio..i knoe..i tore the damn thing apart...

 

if u insist on letting them do it...tell them to tap into the input harness...i mean the best way i can put it is this...the bose amp has the same principle as any other aftermarket amp...it needs power...and it needs ground...then it needs audio input...the power wire goes into a relay that goes to a fuse....the ground goes to a common ground somewhere...and the audio wires go all the way back to the head unit...trust meeh...once they disconnect the bose amp from the harness...they can tap into the factory wiring...but i can tell u already...either they don't want to do the extra work..or they are too lazy...or they are shady...or they just flat out don't knoe how to do custom install...bunch of bonehead...

 

Which future shop..

Those guys are all ****** IDIOTS>..

THe maxima is NOT a common ground or star type setup..

My old aerostar was like taht..

You do not have to run new wires if you dont want..

All you do is go to each amp (since yours is a 99) and jump the inputs to the speaker connections directly... then cut the power off these amps or remove them..

Future shop sells good products but they charge too much for install and their installs SUCK ***..

I know most future shops in mississauga ON

ED

 

Guys;

Thanks for all the great input, I'm putting all this in a document and I'll print it out and bring with me. One guy on another NG even included a diagram for me... Long live NG's.

http://www.underthedash.com/board/vi...id=271&pid=874

But I digress...

I posted this question in the other NG as well, but do you guys think I'll notice any sound differences if I go with either solution? (Splice into existing wires or run brand new wires from HU)? The guys at Future Shop all made it sound like the difference would be night and day, one of them even started saying Bose wires may cause considerable sound degradation. I already spent quite a bit on the system, so I wouldn't mind spending an extra 100$ if it really made a difference... but I don't want to just waste the money and take it up the (__*__) from those crooks.

 

copper is copper dood...bose wires are no thicker or thinner then any other stock vehicle...the untrained ear would not notice a considerable difference...

 

i dunnoe wtf the guy from the other forum is tryin to tell u to do...but it doesn't look rite...

 

DOH!

Are you sure? I printed it off and was going to tell the guys to follow the diagram!

 

okay..im sorry but thats wrong...pop your trunk..you should see a wire harness with 4 wires...2 thick ones...and 2 thinner ones. The 2 thinner ones should be twisted up if you cut the black wire loom and follow the wires up. The 2 thick wires, are power and ground, the remaning two are your speaker wires, simply CUT the 2 speaker wires and extend them to the speaker. You'll use about 6" per speaker to extend them. The colors of the speaker wires can be FOUND at the back of the radio, seeing that future shop did it, They should have used the factory harness. you'll see all the speaker colors back at the factory harness and you just simply take note of what color is which speaker..and match them up. Thats how you bypass your bose system. It should be about 45-60 US dollars. This is HANDS DOWN the best way to get around the bose system. You will hear a great difference, the music will sound much better.

 

ok mang...this is the best i can do for u...listen to what i and two other members on hea have told u to do...this is by far the easiest and cost effective way of doin this...but in the end...u decision is the only one that matters...check out yellowbrother's post in this thread... http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=bose

 

Thx for all your help man... I had seen that post, but wasn't sure if anyone had verified/confirmed that those colors were correct for my 99. If you say they're good, I'll go with that, I'll probably still do as chinaonnitrous1 suggested and tell them to verify a few of the colors with the back of the HU, but this should make it easier for them.

 

That's a great, clean write-up, thx. Do the tweeters work the same way, I kept the Bose ones. If they don't, should I just tell them to bypass the tweeters completely? I didn't buy a crossover or anything, hoping I wouldn't need one.

 

The front tweeters should work fine, the only thing you should request for is a HIGH PASS speaker capacitor, if they look at you funny..say Speaker Saver. Its a 2800hz filter for tweeters, all they do is place it inline with the + speaker wire on the tweet. Its like 9.99 us dollar.