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FIXED: Rattle/Clunk from rear shock mounts & Excessive Idle Speed (~2K) @ Startup

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Old Feb 14, 2003 | 11:49 AM
  #1  
njmaxseltd's Avatar
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FIXED: Rattle/Clunk from rear shock mounts & Excessive Idle Speed (~2K) @ Startup

I was playing at lunch again.

Went to the hardware store and got a few washers to shim up the rear upper shock mount. I thought that it would be best to snug it up and hold the shock a bit tighter. Those who report the noise notice the piston moving slightly.

I took the assembly apart, repositioned the piston center to the mount and snug it up nice and tight with 2 washers as shims under the nut. Went for a quick ride, sounded and felt like I was riding on wooden wheels.

Strike one........

I get back to work (boss is away) and start to play in back of the building. I figured tighter wasn't good so let try to loosen it all up.

BINGO! Completely silent, like much quieter then it's been in a while. The whole rear of the car is just really quiet over bumps. My suggestion to those with this annoying sort of clunky noise from the trunk area. Get a 14mm socket and back that nut off about 12 swings of the wrench. You only get 1/4 turns/swing in. I guarantee your car will become much quieter in the rear.


NEXT UP:

My idle speed on a cool or just sitting 20 min restart was excessive. Yesterday it shot up to 2500 RPM's for like 15 seconds. This just occured after a TB cleaning, so I knew more air was flowing past the throttle plate causing it.

The TB has a cold fast idle circuit. Down under the TB twards the left is a small plunger. This plunger pulls INWARDS when your car is cold, bumping the fast idle cam into place. I could see the amount is was opening my TB by looking at the factory set screw up top. Huge gap...

On the linkage that sits up against this plunger is a set scew. You have to take out the upper intake to get at this easily. Losen up the lock nut and give that set screw about 4 or 5 turns to the right making it go twards the plunger. Remember this works reverse, in drops the cam down lower closing the TB, out opens the TB up more.

Drive it for the next day or two and observe the starts. If it's still a bit high, go more. If it's to low, pull back out. My car is starting up around 1600 -1700 now. Much better then over 2K as it was before. I may even go a bit further in with that screw in a day or two. I'll see how it starts ICE COLD first.


Hope that helps some of you guys out.

Tom
Old Feb 14, 2003 | 12:32 PM
  #2  
s2cmpugh's Avatar
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to help u out on that cold start thing tom, in the cold morning after sitting all night mine goes up to 2000 for a few seconds then comes back down, someitmes hihger than that.

doesnt happen all the time, i thought it was normal
Old Feb 14, 2003 | 12:37 PM
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Originally posted by s2cmpugh
to help u out on that cold start thing tom, in the cold morning after sitting all night mine goes up to 2000 for a few seconds then comes back down, someitmes hihger than that.

doesnt happen all the time, i thought it was normal
Me 2
Old Feb 14, 2003 | 12:48 PM
  #4  
njmaxseltd's Avatar
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I hit 2500 the other day didn't think that was normal. Now it starts at just around 1600 - 1700 and drops down to around 1400. Sounds much better, not like it's going to take off anymore, just a nice clean start.
Old Feb 14, 2003 | 02:49 PM
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Re: FIXED: Rattle/Clunk from rear shock mounts & Excessive Idle Speed (~2K) @ Startup

So the only thing you did was loosen the nut with 12 swings of the wrench and it made it completely quiet? I need to do this because I'm getting the same noise.
Old Feb 14, 2003 | 05:12 PM
  #6  
njmaxseltd's Avatar
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Re: Re: FIXED: Rattle/Clunk from rear shock mounts & Excessive Idle Speed (~2K) @ Startup

Originally posted by sidewinder740
So the only thing you did was loosen the nut with 12 swings of the wrench and it made it completely quiet? I need to do this because I'm getting the same noise.
Give it a try and report back in this thread.

Make sure the piston is centered in the mount too.
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