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mission impossible: 16.2's on a stock VG auto

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Old Feb 21, 2003 | 03:26 PM
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mission impossible: 16.2's on a stock VG auto

I'm getting ready for racing season this summer and I need some new ideas for lowering my ET's. So far I have run a 16.346 with a 2.388 60' with no go fast mods. Here is a link to my times: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=174028 What I am looking to do is lower my ET to 16.2XX without using any go fast goodies. I've got some suspension mods up my sleeves that I am going to try this summer, but are there any other tricks that I could try? Is it truly possible to get a VG auto into the 16.2 range without intake/exhaust/UDP or anything engine related?
Old Feb 21, 2003 | 11:22 PM
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Lighter weight rims + tires. If you can buy some 14in bogart drag racing wheels with 205/50-14 drag radials. That is assuming you get them to fit.
Old Feb 22, 2003 | 07:09 AM
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have you done ANY weight reduction to run that? Lose the AC belt too
Old Feb 22, 2003 | 11:37 AM
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Originally posted by Chris91SE
have you done ANY weight reduction to run that? Lose the AC belt too
I removed the spare and jack, plus my maglight that was in the glove compartment. I've got the A/C belt on my list of things to do if I get desperate. As a matter of fact, I typed up a list of ideas last night. Here it is:

General maintainence:
check lugnuts (I had a loose one rattling around in between the lugnut cover and the wheel the other day)
5W30 oil change
4 gallons of 93 octane(had a full tank on my best run)
Advanced timing to 20 degrees BTDC
Clean throttle body, upper intake plenum, air filter
Check tranny fluid level
Adjust throttle cable
Clean injectors (find the non abrasive injector cleaner) STP, CD2 (my best run was with injector cleaner in the tank)
Clean 02 sensor with brake cleaner and then blow dry with air
Check spark plugs to see if running rich

Weight reduction (from normal to extreme):
Lose weight myself (light weight clothing, shoes, et cetera)
Remove spare, jack, tool kit, lining of trunk
Empty glove compartment (except for title and license)
Empty compartment between front seats
Remove carpet mats
Empty windshield washer fluid resevoir
Remove back seat
Remove headrests
Remove front spoiler
Remove heat shielding on hood
Remove passenger seat, interior door panels
Remove audio equipment (if desperate)
Remove A/C belt
Maybe remove FSTB (although it helps for traction)

Suspension setup:
20 PSI in front, max in rears
Rubber spring spacers on rear springs (to prevent weight transfer)
Zip ties on front springs (to prevent nose lift)
VHT compound for tires

Technique:
Stage deep
Flash stall to 2500 RPM
Let tranny shift by itself (in power mode)
Go around waterbox, do dry-hop to get gravel out of tires
NEVER LIFT TO SHIFT!

Have any more ideas besides lowering effective gear ratio by putting drag radials on smaller radius rims?
Old Feb 22, 2003 | 01:34 PM
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I'm curious if I can reduce friction in the wheels and I was wondering what keeps the axles lubricated? Is there any type of lubricant I can use on the axles to decrease friction?
Old Feb 22, 2003 | 10:35 PM
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Why would you deep stage? That would make your ET worse. The best thing to do is the shallow stage as much as you possibly can. This will get you about 12" of rollout before the RT time ends and your ET begins.

You can remove your panel air filter, too.
Old Feb 23, 2003 | 06:22 AM
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Originally posted by Aaron92SE
Why would you deep stage? That would make your ET worse. The best thing to do is the shallow stage as much as you possibly can. This will get you about 12" of rollout before the RT time ends and your ET begins.

You can remove your panel air filter, too.
Sorry, I have used the wrong terminology. When I mean deep stage I mean to barely trip the second staging light. In my mind, I am farther away from the lights and therefore deeper. Anyways, I meant shallow stage, but said the wrong thing. As for removing the filter, that's a good idea, but I'm a little hesitant to take away my motors only protection from metal and dirt particles.
Old Feb 23, 2003 | 08:02 AM
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Yeah your terminology is backwards. Deep staging is when you roll far enough forward the the prestage light goes out and the staging light stays on. So you "deeper" into the box...
Old Feb 23, 2003 | 03:35 PM
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I don't know about VG but with my VQ anything troque braked above 2000rpm tends to slow my et's down
Old Feb 23, 2003 | 04:06 PM
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Originally posted by Jay_pee99
I don't know about VG but with my VQ anything troque braked above 2000rpm tends to slow my et's down
He said he flashes... not torque brakes.
Old Feb 23, 2003 | 07:10 PM
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Originally posted by Aaron92SE


He said he flashes... not torque brakes.
Right, so basically I flash when I see the first yellow. I'm gonna experiment with the RPM, but if I'm correct the stock convertor stalls at like 1800 or so. Therefore, I'm gonna try 2500 or whatever involves the least amount of wheelspin. Last time 2000 worked pretty well, but there is always room for improvement with a 2.388 60' time.
Old Feb 26, 2003 | 06:41 PM
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ima try that ac belt thing 2...if da weather is good im hittin the track again, and props 2 the 16.3's, thats awesome for a vg auto
Old Mar 4, 2003 | 09:27 PM
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i wish i could remember where it was at, but some1 on here sat down and thought of everything u could remove from the max. its like a page and a half worth of stuff.
Old Mar 8, 2003 | 09:46 PM
  #14  
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Originally posted by imstuckherenow
i wish i could remember where it was at, but some1 on here sat down and thought of everything u could remove from the max. its like a page and a half worth of stuff.
http://lighter.maxdes.net/
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