Ok, I finished the S-AFC2 install and I was up late last night searching for what to set the settings at before I 1st start the car. So far I came across this:

6 cylinder, arrow up; hotwire 4in/4out.

Low throttle 39%/Hi Throttle 40%

Ok, I assume that means to set the Sens.No to 4 in/4 out? What about Sens.Cal, same thing 4 in/4 out? Has anyone figured out what to set the Knocking Set to? Sorry for so many questions, I'm planning on getting the car dyno tuned very soon, but I would like to make sure everything is correct before the initial start up after the installation. I guess right now I just need to know if the Sens.Cal should be the same in/out as Sens.No. Everything else like Dec.-Air, Knk.Set, Ne-Point, Hi-Thrtl, Lo-Thrtl, I'll leave up to the dyno.

Any input appreciated.
-Ben

 

This might help: clicky

 

I missed that one, I guess I needed to be more specific when I was searching last night. Anyway, thanks for the very useful link. Now its time to go and confirm everything is perfect.

-Ben

 

You are the only one I know that has yours installed so far.

I have heard that the knock sensor indicator does not work for OBDII cars, can you tell us if yours is working or have you set it up yet?

Thanks
Jim

 

Uhoh

Where'd you pick up this info? I should check out the Sentra forums sometime perhaps.. I've been way too busy..

 

Well, everything is connected perfectly, but of course I don't have the english version of the manual. Though I was able to understand almost everything from looking at the s-afc1 english manual, but the thing is it doesn't conatin anything about setting up the knock monitor settings. Its kind of hard to explain, but theres a monitor setting screen where I assume you can set the knock count, and then theres a screen where I can see thy something dealing with my knock sensor fluctuating. There's like a double-digit number going up and down. I know that that doesn't sound good, but was wondering if anyone else has recently installed theirs and came across this. Anyway, maybe its just the warm weather where it was 66 degress one day from the usual 30's, but ever since that day I stopped getting the 0210 and 0115 (left/right bank lean) which I would normally get like once every day, not that I'm saying it could be my s-afc2 because I haven't even touched the settings, but its always a bonus to get rid of that check engine light. Watch me jinx myself and get it tomorrow, haha. Maybe it could've been the bottle of fuel injector cleaner and octane booster on the same full tank of gas? Anyway, hopefully someone can teach me about the knock settings.

-Ben

 

Ben if you can see a number fluctuating in the knock sensor mode that is a good sign. Here is what I know about setting it up.

Turn the car on and locate the knocking set menu within the settings menu. The AFC will ask you to rev the car in and out of gear in between 2 intervals. 1300-1700 rpm and 3500-3700 rpm.

As you rev the car to try and "tune" the knock feature, the car will read noise levels for the rpm range and give you a reading per rpm range.

If this is done correctly, the AFC will then know, exactly what is acceptable noise levels are within the motor and what it "learns" as knock.

Knock readings are in percentages of knock instead of raw knock counts. What this will tell you is based on how you have "tuned" the knock feature, the AFC will tell you what it perceives in percentage as knock based on its knock settings.

Will the New Super AFC work with a Second Generation Eclipse? After extensive testing and work, we have found that no, the unit will not monitor knock signals from a OBDII vehicle.

This info was obtained here:

http://www.prostreetonline.com/pso/p...asp?sessionId=

 

Hey thanks, the link was very useful. I hope they update pretty soon about tuning knock. I still don't understand what they mean by revving in and out of gear. So, I should rev the car in neutral twice, once up to 1300-1700rpm and again up to 3500-3700rpm, and then rev the car twice in drive, once up to 1300-1700rpm and again up to 3500-3700rpm, for a total of 4 revs? I might just let the dyno tune that part for me as well, but if its somewhat easy and not really too dangerous to the motor by mistuning, then I might give it a shot. Thanks again for the link.

-Ben

 

Did you get an answer specific to this one? Does anyone know about this one?

 

Well, heres what I found from the functional overview of the s-afc1 at the apexi site, assuming theres not much difference between the 2.

ETC. MODE (SENSOR TYPE)
This menu allows the user to select which type of sensor the S-AFC will be correcting. Whatever your sensor type, BOTH the In and Out values should be exactly the same. The sensor calibration should be left as is. DO NOT CHANGE THE CALIBRATION VALUES.

So, I went ahead and left the sensor calibration values to default which was 1 in, 1 out.

-Ben

 

Thank you partner, The knock one is bugging me as well. I read the thread and dont fully understand what needs to be done.

Dixit

 

Hmm.. isn't this supposed to be 4in 4out?

I'm just getting around to this now

 

Only 4in 4out on the main one, the new SAFCII has another one on the sensor calibration, leave that one as default.

Dixit

 

Got mine installed yesterday. I have not done anything with the settings yet for the a/f because I am getting my exhaust done next week and getting a bung installed for a wideband O2 sensor. I have one available I can use.

On the knock sensor, I am now beginning to belive those who say it won't work on the OBDII.

I can get a raw knock sensor reading but when you set it up according to the manual it will not give a monitor reading. The raw reading still works though so I guess you could use that but it would be nice to have it operate properly.

I tried to set it up both in and out of gear and no difference. It accepts the readings and inputs it but when you go to monitor it will not indicate any reading other than something less than 5% regardless of the throttle position in any gear.

If anyone has any other ideas or has gotten theirs to work, let us know please.

Jim

 

Jim,

You sure the car is running fine without the settings are least to what we've said it needs to be for a maxima? Reason being is that when I installed it and started the car, it died because i forget to set the 4in 4out setting on the Hot sensor. After that the car stayed on.

Now the knock sensor part, I set it to the specified RPM levels that it asked for. It basically is that you are giving it a feel for what the knock readings are. After I set them both, I can then go to the Monitor screen and show my RPM and Knock and most of the time it sits at 0, but occasically I can see it pop to 5 or so when I boosted hard. Im thinking its accurate enough for just MONITORING purposes. I still dont know if it fully set right, still trying to get someone to CLEARLY traslate the manual.

Dixit

 

Guys, I've got the MAF wire left to tap into, then I'd like to do the knock wire and I'm all ready to go... bigdog.. can you tell me which one is the knock pin on the 5th gen ECU? I haven't found that info anywhere

 

Crap, unit isn't initializing I went ahead and started it up and rpm's sat at 1500 or so - probably because there was no ground to the AFC and thus no MAF signal .. my guess at least (I doublechecked that there was no ground after shutting her off).

Does it matter which ground lead you tap into? Guess so.. hope so.. otherwise I quite possibly just fried something expensive (either one or both).

gf#@$@#$

If someone can still post the knock relay, I'll be checking... so much for doing this in less than 1.5 hrs

 

Everything works great with 0% settings. All is set correctly.

Maybe the knock is working correctly but I think when I hit it WOT it should do more than 5% considering it was set at 1500 and 3500 RPM at low load. Most of the time its 0%.

BTW my raw setting for 1500 are around 40 and the 3500 is around 80.

 

The knock pin is 93 off the Pinout that Kevin has posted. It is color WHITE. On my car for some reason it wasnt white but a CLEAR insulation. And it still worked.

Im not fully understanding what you mean by the unit is not initializing? You mean it wont reset to defaults? After you install everything, I would go to the sensor check screen and make sure all the wires are hooked up properly by looking at that screen.

Dixit

 

I found the KS, thx Prepare for a long post/story...

Bigger problem is what the manual calls initialization (when it powers on the first time before you start the motor/leave the ignition set to ON to set up the AFC) : it basically doesn't power up for longer than a few moments. My brains have turned into fizz by now, but let me explain and maybe you can help...


All the wires except for knock and o2 (and orange/pink) are connected : tapped and soldered all of them except for the MAF wire which was cut and connected as per the manual. Again, I followed the directions religiously - battery was disconnected, 1cm between black/brown, brown closer to ECU, etc... ground connected to the ground pin specified with a square in the 5th gen ecu pinout .jpg that Kev posted in the other thread.

Attached the negative terminal, set ignition to ON. I see the little S-AFC II scroll from the left and right - just blips on, off, on, off, then shuts off. Turn ignition off, back on, and the thing almost displays the entire S-AFC II logo then shuts off again. My friend then tested the ground (1v diode or whatnot - I wasn't paying much attention to how he did it, but I know he didn't fry the ECU - he's not stupid and my car still drives ). The ground shuts off after a few moments that I set the ignition to ON - that explains why the AFC shuts off.

Ok fine, so we tried the other 3 ground terminals indicated in the pinout jpeg... unit doesn't even power on, no ground when tested.

This is where I start to postwhore the 5th gen forum : I notice the 4th gen ECU has a MAF ground right to the left of the MAF pin, but don't think much of it.. until Jime tells me that it HAS to go into the MAF ground pin or it won't power up.

So eventually I get the info I need, and I'm given the pin # for the MAF ground (I think it was 73 - I wrote it down). Anyways, lo and behold, THERE IS NO WIRE GOING INTO PIN #73!

So now, I wire the MAF wire back together and eventually get the car running... AFC-II less... and I have no idea how the heck to get the thing to power on for more than a few moments.

Help Which pin should the ground actually be going to?

 

Okay, lets start with the basics.

First off, hot wire the unit and make sure it works corrrectly there. Basically give that RED 12V and give the TWO ground wires on the SAFC negative from a battery or a source that will give 12V. Then see if it stays on and works as normal. Actually since you say your grounded them for sure right, then just give the RED wire 12V and see if that works.

If so, then lets move to step2.

Check your wiring again. I actually used the ground pins 106 or 108, dont remember which one, all I remember is the ground wire on one of those were fairly thick. And make sure you solder them as you described with the brown and black away 1cm and all that good stuff. Then for the 12V wire I used pin 110 (RED/Green).

I really got a feeling maybe you wired the RED wire from the safc to something else. Maybe the wrong pin and that pin is sending a pulsate voltage.

Dixit

 

I'm going to get the FSM this week.. so I'll check to see the 106/108 pins : but I did check the current on the red - it was plugged in to the last pin on the top-right row (I just remember it based on orientation right now - but there's another power / red there right underneath, as per the diagram). The grounding was done correctly : I think it's more of an issue that the pins I used for ground weren't sufficient/the right ground pins.

Anyways, the current tested fine

I'm going to try to hotwire the unit on Monday.. can't manage it tomorrow because I got too much to do!

Thx!

 

Ok, let's continue this at http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=199642

I think my wiring harness is different from the one described in the pinout jpeg..

 

Out of curiousity, did you tap into the wire going into pin 110 or 112 for the power? (higher one or lower one)

I'm at 110, I'm thinking maybe it's not providing a strong enough current.

Gonna hotwire it tomorrow - got a job interview in the morning and I'll see how inspired I am with this thing after that

Going through the FSM I got here, I should be able to get things going the way I already wired it all up... I'm gonna switch the power wire to pin 112 and the grounds to pin 58.

 

I tapped 110 which is a RED/Green wire. I remember that for sure when I was soldering it since it was only last week.

Ground wire should be all the way on the left which is pins 106 and 108. Those wires are black and at least twice as thick as all the other ones. I know for a fact those work since Im tapped to one of those.

Dixit

 

Mine ain't black and have no ground.. can't explain it, so I'll just assume it's a canuck thing. Or maybe I didn't get the proper voltage from the 112... I shall see tomorrow Gonna tap the AFC into the one pin I'm SURE is a proper ground now.

Thx for the help! We'll see what happens.

 

Damn Canadians

Well let me know how it goes.


Dixit

 

Welp, I'm at it again!

Hotwired, it powers up.

Then began by running the power wire you did into the S-AFC and voila! She goes on! Then shuts off/on/off/on/off/on.

It seems the red wire going to the ECU is having problems maintaining a proper current ;( Tried both power pins, same thing.

Gonna tap into elsewhere to see if that works, but this shouldn't be happening!?

 

Tested the voltage for the red wire : ran between 7.7-8V's.

Maybe that's why the damn thing refused to power up properly all this time.

Going to run 12 volts from elsewhere. We'll see what happens. Unless I'm not supposed to do this? I'm assuming it should be fine.

 

Ran it into the fusebox. Good current, powered up, I'm happy. Just gotta figure out the UI and make sure it's setup OK before I start her up!

 

WRONG.

Car won't start.

Spoke with Jime, looks like some of my voltage is way off.

With ignition set to ON, throttle is at 100%, as is afr %. Did a sensor check and both show in excess of 5V.

Totally messed. I followed the diagram and don't know what to say. Configured it fine.. even went over it with Jime just in case..

At this point, I just don't know what to do anymore.

 

If your igition is on and the AFL is at 100% then for sure that TPS sensor wire is on the wrong on for sure. Without a doubt in my mind it has to be.

Dixit

 

Yeah

Exactly why I give up.

I even went to the local service manager.. great guy... gave me his Canadian 2000 FSM... no go - it has the same info as all the other FSM's, just the colours don't match which just leads me to believe the wiring is different.

Don't know how this can be... why it can be... but it is.

Guess I'll disconnect the harness on Sat and yank this ****** out for sale.

 

I would like to get the FSM from you and see what is going on and analyze it myself before you give up.

dsuthar@comcast.net

Dixit

 

I'll fire it up your way later (tonight?) - it's downstairs in the car and I'm doing some long distance phone interviews right now..

Just an FYI though, it's no different than anyone else's here