Is a torque wrench needed to do a proper spring and strut install? What about to replace brakes?

This spring re-vamp is getting more and more expensive!

 

Yes.

 

The torque wrench is only required when you are re-installing the upper strut bolts, the bolts on top of the strut. If you do not have a torque wrench, just use a ratchet and snug the bolts tight, but do not over tighten.

As for the brakes, I have never used a torque wrench to do a brake job, and I have done hundreds in the past 2-3 years.....

 

Thanks for reminding me that I should pick up a torque wrench amidst the suspension work plans. I mean, I don't think it's 100% NECESSARY, but to do as you would say, a 'proper' job, yeah, I think it'd be a good idea.

I'd like to search and see what would be the optimal drive size wrench for suspension work specifically, but...

Too bad harborfreight.com doesn't have any steals on torque wrenches right now, although a real basic 1/2" drive for $19.99. I think the basic analog clicky craftsman ones at sears were ~$30.00 last I checked. Let me know if you end up getting one and find a deal somewhere.

 

Just remember, these are the components controlling the steering and braking on your car, subject to huge amounts of force, do you really want to do a half a$$ job?

 

Which parts will benefit from the use of a torque wrench? Sorry for my ignorance- this will be my FIRST install...

 

All of them, including your lug nuts.

 

Off the top of my head, I thought the torque values for the brake bolts on the calipers range between 25 ft-lbs to 34 ft-lbs (need to check against my Haynes manual). Without a torque wrench, it's probably too easy to overtorque.

 

I am going to be picking up a hayne's manual before I start all of this- that will have all of the torque settings, right?

Another question- How long should I set aside to do a full suspension swap and to replace the front brake rotors and pads? There will be 2 people and I have a jack and jackstands. Both of us are mechanically inclined, though I have never done suspension before.

Lastly- When I was into Jeeps, I did my front shocks, but the rear shocks were rusted and seized up. Is this a common problem with maximas? Will I need any heat to remove the bolts? Where should I spray liquid wrench in the next few days to start losening things up?

 

I rarly use a torque wrench anymore. I found that after a while you develop a feel for how much effort is needed for you to get to Xft-lbs. Plus, the one I have is rather large, and a pain for anything that's not out in the open.

I use a torque wrench on my lugs, but that's about it.

 

Patrick:

Follow the torque specs on both components, esp the strut assembly.
When doing brakes, the torque on the caliper bolts is fairly low and can be accomplished via guesstimation after doing a few brake jobs The caliper bracker bolts are the ones I would make sure are torqued properly and all the specs are in the Haynes Manual.

Torqueing the brakes can be challenge if not using a torque wrench which clicks when you hit the proper ft/lbs. I was using a Sears one with a dial on the front but unless on a lift, I cannot see the dial.

D

 

Patrick:

Follow the torque specs on both components, esp the strut assembly.
When doing brakes, the torque on the caliper bolts is fairly low and can be accomplished via guesstimation after doing a few brake jobs The caliper bracker bolts are the ones I would make sure are torqued properly and all the specs are in the Haynes Manual.

Torqueing the brakes can be challenge if not using a torque wrench which clicks when you hit the proper ft/lbs. I was using a Sears one with a dial on the front but unless on a lift, I cannot see the dial.

D

 

I picked up a wrench that's got a double-headed adapter on opposing sides. I just put the socket on the side that allows me to see the torque reading.

 

Where did you pick it up at?

D

 

I'm in Toronto Canada so the store info won't help you. When I get home, I find out the maker of it & let you know.

p.s. Before I found that thing, I once had a buddy hold up a mirror so I could see the tq. reading on my other "conventional" torque wrench. Definitely NOT user-friendly.

 

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...=torque+wrench


i just got the torque wrench with the 1/2" drive. It works fine, and you can't beat the price. I also, picked up a heat gun for like $15, too. And even with their regular shipping prices, i got the tools in like 3 days.

Anyone know where i can get a good breaker bar?

 

Thanks, I saw HarborFreight had one in their latest sale flyer.
Harbor Freight Link $10.99 breaker bar

 

if you can use a torque wrench on those bolts, go for it. I try to torque everything to spec, but you can't really reach the wrench around in all areas; it's way longer than my breaker bar.

 

?

 

Torque Specs should be in the FSM or Haynes, I'm pretty sure mine has it.

As far as tight/rusted bolts, I had mine done after 90k miles didn't have much trouble with rusted bolts, in fact I don't think any of the bolts were rusted, it does require a bit of muscle though ( thanks njmaxseltd!) The breaker bar is a HUGE benefit to have when trying to loosen these bolt, it will give you a lot of leverage I strongly suggest you get one for this job. Also don't forget to rent spring compressors.

I would tell you that you're looking at an entire saturday afternoon time wise, as long as you don't hit any snags on the way.

 

Is it generally agreed that the 1/2" drive suits the more common socket ranges for the specific suspension fasteners that a torque wrench is a good idea for? Just for suspension work mind you - or do you still use adaptors for the drive size?

Also, is 150 ft-lbs a high enough max? I'll forget to check in my haynes when I get home.

 

Yes. Most people are hard pressed to exert more than that anyways. Anything over 150 ft-lbs is basically "as f'ing tight as you can".

 

I plan to devote a whole saturday or sunday to the tasks of suspension and front brakes (rear rotors as well).

There is an auto parts store a block from my house if I forget anything minor.

 

make sure you get the OEM parts ahead of time as most dealers are close on Sundays ( at least around here) We had to take a ride to Nissan in the middle of the job to get the strut bearings, thought I wouldn't need them but I was dead wrong...


Kev

 

Sorry, I've got no manufacturer/model details stamped on the torque-wrench.

 

a tip tho, don't do what i did, and forget the socket adapter from 3/8" to 1/2", then get all set to start a job and realize that the wrench is useless when all you have are sockets that fit 3/8"

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by phenryiv1
[B]I am going to be picking up a hayne's manual before I start all of this- that will have all of the torque settings, right?

Patrick,

Give me a call. I have a 1/2" Craftsman digatorque and the Haynes manual.

Jason

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by JustMaxin96
[B]I plan to buy the haynes, just to have it.

BUT I definately would like to borrow the torque wrench, if that is okay. You don't weant to help on the install one weekend, do you? I have a guy from work who is helping, but noone who has actually taken apart a maxima suspension. Drop me a PM w/ your # and we can discuss it further. THANKS!

 

of course you can use it man. I will be able to help you out to if you want. Just try and get a diagram of the front and rear suspension, I will look in my Haynes and see if there is a good one. I am actually going to try some new springs myself but I am waiting on some stuff from energy suspension. Just send me an email.