OK, I'm trying to clean up the engine compartment a bit as my hands must be larger than the average nissan mechanic, and see this big chunk of "assembly" including the AIV, AFM, and AIV and EGR solenoids clutering things up, and would like to reduce it to a simpler and seperate AFM (intake) and EGR circuit. Is this a common modification?

 

Eh....yeah...okay...So lemme get this straight....you want MAF assembly and the EGR? They are separate of each other. The EGR depends on vacuum provide by the vacuum chamber directly below the AIV. You could remove the AIV, but you need to figure out how to close off the pipe leading to the exhaust manifold. What you want to do isn't a common mod. What I would do is remove the AIV, and then look at what you have. See what is hooked up to the vacuum chamber and work from there.

S

 

Yep, your right, I should have looked closer before a premature post. It appears there is a heat exchanger that the inlet air goes through after MAF, with the AIR mounted on top, with the EGR/AIR solenoids mounted to the AIR bracket. The "heat exchanger", if in fact that's what it is along with the AIR is what I would like to pull. But I live in WI and now wonder if shunting a heat exchanger is a smart move.

 

There is? You sure that isn't the MAF adapter? The heat exchanger should be in the MAF unit itself. The tube that is right after the MAF should be the vacuum chamber...I'm going to have to check my car when I have sometime to see if I can see what's there. I'll get back to you when I find out.

S

 

OK, again you're probably ahead of me and I am descibing the vacuum chamber when I refer to this mysterious "heat exchanger" past the MAF. A "heat exchanger" is likely a devise of my own imagination as I see no exhaust input upon further examination. All I have is a Chilton's and Haynes (the latter of which is suitable for outhouse paper comparatively), but neither describes a vacuum chamber. All I know is this "thing" (presumably a vacuum chamber) has one ~3/8" line coming out of it feeding the Air Regulator and Idle Up Solenoid. I am operating in the dark here and just see a big chunk of "black box" that I would like to make disappear from my engine compartment Cheers!

 

Well, I wouldn't just start ripping things out of there. The Nissan engineers are pretty smart fellows, so if it's in there, chances are it's necessary for the proper operation of the vehicle.

You can disconnect the Air Injection Valve though. I've disconnected mine and still passed the emissions testing just as well as I did when it worked. Of course, I didn't take the entire unit out, so I don't know how you would deal with that situation, I just unplugged the hose from it. The AIV does something with lowering emissions, not sure what, but whatever it is the emissions testing doesn't test for it.

I'm not sure what black box you are talking about, your not referring to the air filter housing are you? If so, you can take it out, but you'll have to attach an adapter to the MAF and connect a cone filter to it.

-C-

 

You're absolutely correct, I'm just figuring that this car has 15+ years on it and a lot of the mechanical emmision devises are probably "going south" with age anyhow, like my Nissan's (idle) air control valve. I had a Chevette and at about 150,000 miles the AIV valves were shot and feeding exhaust air into the PVC system, don't ask me why they integrated the two! But I am not refering to the air cleaner, the "thing" is on the other (manifold) side of the MAF. And to my demise, I am a scientist and feel compelled to tear this "thing" down to understand it. My desires are simple: to have an air filter followed by a MAF followed by a throttle valve, and a cleaner engine compartment in the process Thanks for your post.

 

Theoretically, it should be possible.

Basically, all the AIV does is recirculate exhaust gas back into the intake stream to help to lower emissions. Every vehichle that I've had with an AIV setup, I disabled the system...in fact, the vehicle I had just prior to my Max was a Mazda pickup. When I had the engine rebuilt, after reinstalling the engine, it wouldn't run with the AIV hooked up...as soon as I plugged the damn thing, it ran like a champ...of course, this was after spending $75 at the dealership to but new filters for the AIV.

I do not have my books available to me at thge moment, but I do believe there are other peices of equipment connected to that bracket for the AIV.

If you are successful in disab;ing, and then removing, this POS item, please let us know...

My max is still currently on stands in the drive way, as I was unable to work on it all during during my forced 3 week vacation...

 

OK, so I pulled out the mystery box between the MAF and Thottle valve surrounding the air inlet (there was an outlet that ran to the Air Control Valve and Idle Up Solenoid for air supply). I ground the seams and split it in half. The air inlet tube had 6 x 1/2" holes drilled in it to allow air into the chamber. It was just an empty box with a condensate drain, kind of like a muffler for idle inlet air, probably to reduce condensate. Well I welded up the holes on the inlet duct after removing the "box" and welded a nipple on it to feed the Air Control/Idle Up. Pulled the AIV and all associated brackets and tubes (plugged the exhaust manifold and air box) and zip tied the EGR control solenoid to the power steering vaccuum feed. Car performance has not changed a bit, but I have room to access alot more stuff (changing the rack and pinion LH bellows would have been easier if I would have cut this stuff out ealier). Maybe I have a freakish car and none of the rest have the mystery box, but I did take a picture of the inside just after splitting if anyone is interested. Unrelated, I cut the cute little black wire going to the overdrive overide on the transmision overdrive/lockup solenoid wiring harness because I was tired of doing 3000+ RPM on a cold engine to aproximate 55 MPH until the water temp came up, which in Wisconsin this time of year is about 3 minutes. My engine is happier about that.

 

Your engine may be happier about that wire being removed, but your tranny certainly won't be. These automatic transmissions are fairly weak to begin with, but yours will even be more so since it's shifting into overdrive prematurely. Don't be surprised if you have transmission or torque converter problems a year from now.

-C-

 

Thanks for the "heads up". I'll keep my eye on the AT fluid (have some good optical oil phase microscopes and a laser difraction particle size analyzer at work). I always leave a good pig-tail when I cut stuff....just in case!

 

kgyreg

 

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nice way of staying below the radar, you jack*** noob spammer

 

It pisses me off too. He's done this on 5 or more threads