want better handling?
want better handling?
If so and you've already done the FSTB and RSB mods, you NEED to make a rear strut tower brace. I've done the FSTB and RSB mods, out of all of them I noticed the RSTB the most. The turn in and response is alot quicker now with the RSTB. My sister's mx6 has FSTB and RSB also, once we put in a RSTB we noticed the difference real quick. Here are some pics
.
My custom setup is below. I used 5/8 x 36" square rods with a 5/8" turnbuckle (couldn't find any left hand nuts), for the bracket I used some sheet metal.
bracket pic
bracket 2
brace pic
brace pic 2
brace pic 3
So far the rear brace has been the best suspension mod I've done. Keep in mind the car already had the front brace + complete ES suspension urethane bushings all around so YRMV.
.My custom setup is below. I used 5/8 x 36" square rods with a 5/8" turnbuckle (couldn't find any left hand nuts), for the bracket I used some sheet metal.
bracket pic
bracket 2
brace pic
brace pic 2
brace pic 3
So far the rear brace has been the best suspension mod I've done. Keep in mind the car already had the front brace + complete ES suspension urethane bushings all around so YRMV.
Re: want better handling?
Originally posted by Nismo87SE
If so and you've already done the FSTB and RSB mods, you NEED to make a rear strut tower brace. I've done the FSTB and RSB mods, out of all of them I noticed the RSTB the most. The turn in and response is alot quicker now with the RSTB. My sister's mx6 has FSTB and RSB also, once we put in a RSTB we noticed the difference real quick. Here are some pics
.
My custom setup is below. I used 5/8 x 36" square rods with a 5/8" turnbuckle (couldn't find any left hand nuts), for the bracket I used some sheet metal.
bracket pic
bracket 2
brace pic
brace pic 2
brace pic 3
So far the rear brace has been the best suspension mod I've done. Keep in mind the car already had the front brace + complete ES suspension urethane bushings all around so YRMV.
If so and you've already done the FSTB and RSB mods, you NEED to make a rear strut tower brace. I've done the FSTB and RSB mods, out of all of them I noticed the RSTB the most. The turn in and response is alot quicker now with the RSTB. My sister's mx6 has FSTB and RSB also, once we put in a RSTB we noticed the difference real quick. Here are some pics
.My custom setup is below. I used 5/8 x 36" square rods with a 5/8" turnbuckle (couldn't find any left hand nuts), for the bracket I used some sheet metal.
bracket pic
bracket 2
brace pic
brace pic 2
brace pic 3
So far the rear brace has been the best suspension mod I've done. Keep in mind the car already had the front brace + complete ES suspension urethane bushings all around so YRMV.
Thanks,
cool idea.
for those that cant see the pics just hit go (by the address bar) after the new window pops up since its geocities I dont think it can be linked but after its in the address bar you can hit go. Thats what I did and can see the pics.
for those that cant see the pics just hit go (by the address bar) after the new window pops up since its geocities I dont think it can be linked but after its in the address bar you can hit go. Thats what I did and can see the pics.
Originally posted by awsm66
cool idea.
for those that cant see the pics just hit go (by the address bar) after the new window pops up since its geocities I dont think it can be linked but after its in the address bar you can hit go. Thats what I did and can see the pics.
cool idea.
for those that cant see the pics just hit go (by the address bar) after the new window pops up since its geocities I dont think it can be linked but after its in the address bar you can hit go. Thats what I did and can see the pics.
Nice project Ari. On the 3rd gen it should be possible to run a RSTB along the upper part of the rear deck (where the speaker wire now runs across), and the rear seat will fit in fine.
Just need someone to fab up some brackets and a bar.
Just need someone to fab up some brackets and a bar.
Hmm I have a car to prototype it in.

Originally posted by Lordrandall
Nice project Ari. On the 3rd gen it should be possible to run a RSTB along the upper part of the rear deck (where the speaker wire now runs across), and the rear seat will fit in fine.
Just need someone to fab up some brackets and a bar.
Nice project Ari. On the 3rd gen it should be possible to run a RSTB along the upper part of the rear deck (where the speaker wire now runs across), and the rear seat will fit in fine.
Just need someone to fab up some brackets and a bar.
There shouldn't be any problems with the seats, if it bulges out a bit, then just cut off some of the foam from the back.
here's a diagram of how to make an rstb without any clearance problems. (look at the long top line).
here's a diagram of how to make an rstb without any clearance problems. (look at the long top line).
Originally posted by Sudesh
There shouldn't be any problems with the seats, if it bulges out a bit, then just cut off some of the foam from the back.
here's a diagram of how to make an rstb without any clearance problems. (look at the long top line).
There shouldn't be any problems with the seats, if it bulges out a bit, then just cut off some of the foam from the back.
here's a diagram of how to make an rstb without any clearance problems. (look at the long top line).

I thought I read a couple times before that putting an RSTB in wouldn't really be worth it because of how solid the C pillar was. I guess this throws all that out the window. I'd like to see a more detailed write up (wish I had a welder to work with and the skills to use it
). About how long did this take? And why didn't you pass it through the rear instead?
i havent been in the back area of my car since i put my speakers in so i dont remember... how much stuff is there in the way? other than the seat? very nice looking.. and it doesnt seem very hard? you make the parts yourself or did you get someone to make it for? make a writeup im interested in doing it now.
There isn't anything in the way other that the rear seat cushion. If you find that the seat bulges out a bit with the bar in place, remember, the seat is made of foam. Simply trim some of the foam off the back to make a new home for the bar. I think his pictures explain everything pretty clearly.
if you guys REALLY want some, I can probably make a trip to WSP's shop and have them fab something up in my car... all I did (which worked better than I thought it would) was bolt a piece of 3/4" MDF across the whole rear opening for my free-air subs. I noticed a few weeks after putting it in that the rear deck would pop and creak when I went over the huge bump at the end of my driveway. then I realized the screws were loosening on the wood. tightened them up and the noise went away.. (this means the rear end is flexing, because it's pulling the bolts loose and causing the noises).
I removed the wood panel and noticed a bit of difference in the ride on the car. mostly it just tracked a bit better over bumps in the rear.. similar to the difference when I added my SFCs, but not nearly to that extreme..
the good part is this project only cost me about $10 for wood and a handfull of machine screws. a REAL brace back there may or may not do the same thing, but will cost quite a bit more than the Maxima FSTB because the brackets will be quite a bit more intricate.
I removed the wood panel and noticed a bit of difference in the ride on the car. mostly it just tracked a bit better over bumps in the rear.. similar to the difference when I added my SFCs, but not nearly to that extreme..
the good part is this project only cost me about $10 for wood and a handfull of machine screws. a REAL brace back there may or may not do the same thing, but will cost quite a bit more than the Maxima FSTB because the brackets will be quite a bit more intricate.
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I see great things for the Maxima.
Picture this:
Coilovers.
SubFrame Connectors 1,2,3.
Front Strut Tower Bar.
Rear Strut Tower Bar.
Rear Sway Bar.
Front Sway Bar.
Can you say sick handling?
I think the 3rd gens take to handling mods better than the 4th gens. When I was the test monkey for the SFC's, I was with a 97 SE, he didnt notice much at all...but I noticed alot, I was stock with just SFC's at the time, he was lowered, FSTB, and all the goodies and he thought my car handled better
Picture this:
Coilovers.
SubFrame Connectors 1,2,3.
Front Strut Tower Bar.
Rear Strut Tower Bar.
Rear Sway Bar.
Front Sway Bar.
Can you say sick handling?
I think the 3rd gens take to handling mods better than the 4th gens. When I was the test monkey for the SFC's, I was with a 97 SE, he didnt notice much at all...but I noticed alot, I was stock with just SFC's at the time, he was lowered, FSTB, and all the goodies and he thought my car handled better
Originally posted by MadMax92
What are SFC's?
What are SFC's?

They sell them here. www.warpspeedperformance.com
Re: Re: want better handling?
The back seat fits fine, also you can't even feel the bar through the seat. I had my family sit in the rear and asked if they noticed any change in the back seat. They all said no
.
.
Originally posted by Pervis Anathema
Good work. Can you feel the bar through the back seat?
Good work. Can you feel the bar through the back seat?
The hardest part of this is actually taking the measurements and making the mounts brackets. I got lucky as another se-r owner made a RSTB and posted a template for the rear brackets. All I did was drill the holes and I had a muffler shop weld it all up. I was searching through some old se-r mailing list messages on chassic stiffening and ran across some interesting info. Years ago Mike Kojima did a test involving a laser pointer located on a strut tower facing the other strut tower. With a FSTB it reduced the total movement from reference about 30-40%. Now with a triangulated front brace it reduced the total movement like 75-85%. Just alittle food for thought.
Originally posted by Nismo87SE
With a FSTB it reduced the total movement from reference about 30-40%. Now with a triangulated front brace it reduced the total movement like 75-85%. Just alittle food for thought.
With a FSTB it reduced the total movement from reference about 30-40%. Now with a triangulated front brace it reduced the total movement like 75-85%. Just alittle food for thought.

Coupled with a triangular brace on the towers... just a thought.
Originally posted by Dark Lord Bunny
Hmmm... I wonder what it'd be like if the front was braced like Grand Ams:

Coupled with a triangular brace on the towers... just a thought.
Hmmm... I wonder what it'd be like if the front was braced like Grand Ams:

Coupled with a triangular brace on the towers... just a thought.
Originally posted by Nismo87SE
I believe this trianglated brace would tie the strut towers to the firewall.
I believe this trianglated brace would tie the strut towers to the firewall.
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
if you guys REALLY want some, I can probably make a trip to WSP's shop and have them fab something up in my car... all I did (which worked better than I thought it would) was bolt a piece of 3/4" MDF across the whole rear opening for my free-air subs. I noticed a few weeks after putting it in that the rear deck would pop and creak when I went over the huge bump at the end of my driveway. then I realized the screws were loosening on the wood. tightened them up and the noise went away.. (this means the rear end is flexing, because it's pulling the bolts loose and causing the noises).
I removed the wood panel and noticed a bit of difference in the ride on the car. mostly it just tracked a bit better over bumps in the rear.. similar to the difference when I added my SFCs, but not nearly to that extreme..
the good part is this project only cost me about $10 for wood and a handfull of machine screws. a REAL brace back there may or may not do the same thing, but will cost quite a bit more than the Maxima FSTB because the brackets will be quite a bit more intricate.
I removed the wood panel and noticed a bit of difference in the ride on the car. mostly it just tracked a bit better over bumps in the rear.. similar to the difference when I added my SFCs, but not nearly to that extreme..
the good part is this project only cost me about $10 for wood and a handfull of machine screws. a REAL brace back there may or may not do the same thing, but will cost quite a bit more than the Maxima FSTB because the brackets will be quite a bit more intricate.
Here are the links so you can just click on them
bracket pic
bracket 2
brace pic
brace pic 2
brace pic 3
I wish Sudesh's picture worked. I missed this thread before.
I'll try to find a picture of my Mustang's engine, you can see the "export brace" (just what they call it. then the FSTB type bar is a "monte carlo bar" and it connects before the strut tower). Just food for thought.
bracket pic
bracket 2
brace pic
brace pic 2
brace pic 3
I wish Sudesh's picture worked. I missed this thread before.
I'll try to find a picture of my Mustang's engine, you can see the "export brace" (just what they call it. then the FSTB type bar is a "monte carlo bar" and it connects before the strut tower). Just food for thought.
well heres an old pic.

and this is just another angle.
http://mrgone.homeip.net/images/Mustang/P3210175.JPG
and this is just another angle.
http://mrgone.homeip.net/images/Mustang/P3210175.JPG
Originally Posted by Dark Lord Bunny
I thought I read a couple times before that putting an RSTB in wouldn't really be worth it because of how solid the C pillar was.
Yes you are correct, you have seen post in the past stating this idea was a waste of time. Ari posted this back in 4/2003 and he's been pushing this idea probably longet than that, ever since he pick up his SER. Besides those links Ari posted he had also posted another link which I had copied info from (I dont have the link any more) because this is one of those mods I planed on trying, in the famous words of Aaron "It can't hurt"



