I just bought some rims. And the little thing that is in the center of the rotors,and all those eparts. The little thing with the pin going thorught it. My rims will not fit cause that sticks out to far. The lug pattern is right. What can i do. Would it be okay i i cut like 1/4 ot 1/2 inch off? Cause i do nto wanna have to get new rims.
or and i just screwed?

 

I have a similar problem. I have Maxxim Pursuit wheels and the rear ones have fitment issues. the front ones were fine, but the center caps on the rear wheels wouldn't fit because the grease covers stuck out too far. I had to break the tabs off the center cap and glue it on...im not too happy with it.

 

this sucks cause i was going to get tires this weekend cause i get paid, and now i am kinda screwed. I might just saw a little off, and if i die so be it, it was for a good cause!!!!

 

Someone also suggested to me that I put spacers on the wheels. dunno anything about them though

 

i just tapped them off with a hammer and screw driver. the dust covers on the back right?

 

H&R makes a 5mm spacer kit that might help you - it comes with the longer stud bolts required to compensate for the spacer thickness. Do a web search: many aftermarket suppliers sell the H&R spacer kits.

Be sure to measure how much extra clearance you need to allow the wheel to clear the grease dust cap before ordering spacers.

 

i will definetley check into that!

 

How did you just tap it off? Any problems with doing this?

 

When I had my camry, I had rims with spacers on the back... That might be the problem with yours...otherwise the rims wouldnt fit on the car...
No spacers came with the rims?

 

Tap the dust cap with a hammer to collapse it slightly. There's some room under the cap. Test fit your wheels and continue to tap it until you get the correct clearance.

Don't remove the dust cap, that will allow some dirt and moisture to get into the bearing which may cause premature ware.

 

I just pried the dustcap off. It goes back on when the 16's go back on.

 

My problem is that the dust cap's diameter is too large. If I remove the center cap from the wheel, and put the wheel on, the dustcap/grease cover thing potrudes through the center hole in the wheel (where the center cap goes) and it fits right in there. It leaves no room around the edges between the brownish metal cap and the center hole on the wheel. The centercap has 6 plastic "clips" that hold it in place when you push it into the center hole of the wheel, however, the large diameter of the dust cap doesn't allow room between it and the center hole in the wheel. This is what is preventing me from placting the center cap back onto the wheel.

 

Are you putting on Tantrums?

Edit: I read your post and your not using Tantrums. Anyway, just pry the dustcap off and slap your rims on. The dustcap on them should do a good enough job of keeping dust out. If you're really worried about dust getting in the bearings, then you could fashion a cheap dustcap out of some flat plastic and silicon. Personally, I would just take the factory dustcaps off and bolt the rims on.

 

OK, I know how you feel cause I have the same problem with my Konig Toxxins. I had suggested spacers on another post of the same subject cause I don't want to take the factory dustcaps off. The spacers (5mm) can be had for $55 at www.optauto.com (Options Autosalon). These should allow just enough clearance for the wheel centercaps to go on and in my case fill up the wheel well some more.

 

are they $55 a tire, or are they for a pair or set of 4?

 

My wheels are alread a 40mm offset. Won't this make them a 35 and they'll be out of factory spec. this might cause alighment issues or rubbing issues when the car is lowered. does anyone know of a replacement dust cover/grease cover for the rear wheels that isn't rounded out like the one on the car now?

 

A pair

 

You could probably make one with some plastic scrap and some silicon goo or epoxy?

 

is the cover something that would ever need to be removed or should i just get a piece of plastic, cut it, and glue it real tight in there with some auto-goo stuff?

 

You would only have to remove it if you were replacing the wheel bearing or something. So basically, you won't have to remove it.

 

A 5mm spacer kit will NOT cause any problems with alignment or lowering. A spacer has no effect on your alignment. I'm lowered with the 5mm H&R's on a 40mm offset 17" wheel and everything's just peachy.

(5mm really isn't all that thick - it's a little less than 1/4")

 

will i have a problem with this spacer stuff if i put on oem nissan wheels like the 17" 2k+ wheels for the new g35 wheels.??

 

You could remove the plastic setup & replace it pretty easily if you ever had to change a wheel bearing - I like this alternative to the $pacers idea, now that I think about it. (Cheap, yet effective)

Get some clear thick polyethelene and a tube of clear silicone adhesive, cut your circular patterns and seal it up around the edges with a bead of the silicone. That should do the trick - eliminating your fitment problems, while maintaining a watertight seal over your bearings.

DO NOT run without the dust caps or something sealing this area off from road grit and H2O, or you WILL be replacing your wheel bearings sooner than you'd like. Trust me on this.

 

Its just a dust cap, you can take it off with a wedge and a hammer, They should come one perfectly after, Samething happend to me

 

won't the wheels centercap protect the inside after you remove the dustcaps?

i'm more interested in the tapping with hammer ... but then u'd have to collapse it all the way around the perimeter to make room for the wheel caps clips

 

The wheels' centercaps are not watertight like the OEM dust-caps. They may keep out much of the dust and grit, but not the moisture - that can really kill a bearing quick - your call.

 

understood- good call.
im going to try to smash my dustcap into the shape i want it then !

 

hey KWheelzSB, did you use the longer bolts on your spacers or did you just used your existing. If you used the longer bolts, how hard is it to put on?

 

I used the longer studs provided w/ the H&R kit. I really wouldn't feel comfortable using the OEM's with the spacers on there. Sure, it might be fine, but why chance it, ya know?

The removal/install wasn't too hard (speaking only for the rear - I don't have the spacers on the front).


Things you'll need:

A good bench vise
Hammer
Center punch
1/2" Breaker bar (for the axle nut)
Pipe extension for the breaker bar
Torque wrench capable of measuring up to 150 ft/lbs
1 open nut that fits the stud bolts
1 or 2 heavy washers (center hole big enough to fit wheel stud bolt)
Basic tools

Steps:

1) Loosen lug nuts slightly
2) Jack up car
3) Place a jackstand securely
4) Remove wheel/tire
5) Remove caliper
6) Remove rotor
7) Remove dustcap
8) Remove cotter pin & locking castle-nut from axle nut
9) Remove axle nut
10) Remove hub assembly from the axle
11) Place the hub assembly with the stud-bolts facing up in a sturdy vise.

12) Using a hammer and your center punch,* firmly tap the middle/end of each stud (1 at a time) until the stud is pushed out the bottom of the hub assembly (they're pressed into place).**

*DO NOT BANG A HAMMER OR BLUNT OBJECT DIRECTLY ON THE END OF THE STUD BOLTS! If you do this, you can damage the starting threads on the OEM studs and you may not be able to thread a lug nut onto them ever again (-may as well throw them away).

**If you have ABS, be VERY careful as the stud is almost completely out of the hole to not hit it so hard that the "head" of the stud slams into the toothed ABS sensor ring on the (inside) of the hub assembly - you can damage it. (As the stud is almost out, just use lighter taps instead of really whacking at it).

Once the OEM studs have all been removed from the hub assembly. . .

13) Take the new, longer studs (1 at a time) and draw them up into the holes (same way the OEM ones were)

14) Now, get a ratchet with the correct size socket for the open-ended nut mentioned earlier. Using a separate socket as a spacer, place the socket over the stud bolt so the bolt is protruding up through the socket.

15) Place your thick washer on top of the socket - the end of the bolt should have at least 4 threads exposed at this point. If not, use a shorter socket.

16) Thread the open nut onto the end of the stud bolt until it's finger-tight.

17) Take your ratchet with correct sized socket and tighten clockwise (this will draw the stud bolt up into the hub assembly and "press" it into place) When it starts getting snug, if you have a torque wrench, torque to spec.

(I don't remember the tq #, but it will be provided with the H&R kit - pretty sure it was well over 100 ft/lbs - these suckers need to be TIGHT).

18) Remove the nut and your socket/spacer/washer & repeat on all 5 studs.

19) Re-install hub assembly on the car and torque axle nut to spec.

20) Don't forget to put the castle nut back on w/ a NEW cotter pin.

(Rest of installation is reverse of removal)

The spacer goes outside the rotor.


Hope this helps!

 

Thanks