ok now i really want to make my sidemarkers brighter cause i think the dull yellowish light looks really ugly. i already know how to install them and everything - but the thing is i already tried it once. what happened is i successfully made the first bulb brighter but the second one was covered and stuck in rust, so i used a ton of rust remover and finally got the bulb out, modified it, put it back in, and found out that the socket was ruined because of all the rust remover i used on it i guess. but this is where the real problem was at: once i completed my project (partially successful w/ one light out), the fuse kept blowin out. the fuse was fixed once, and it blew out again. so i just got 2 totally new bulbs, a new socket, and everything is now back to where it was originally. so now im scared to make them brighter again. when the fuse kept blowin out my mechanic mentioned that moisture got into the light assembly (not the bulb, not the socket, the light itself) and might have caused the fuse blowin out. so either the brighter light or the moisture in the other light is what caused the fuse. im scared to try it again cause im worried about the fuse. could i upgrade the fuse or something? what should i do?
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dry the sockets and harness as much as possible.. cut the top nubs each new bulb.. rotate to make the bottom one left now the top one..put that sucker in and thats it...repeat and other side.. fuse blowing is not normal but it could of been moisture..at a loast resort..you can add more tolerance to the side markers by adding a higher rating fuse..but not neccassay under NORMAL condtions..

 

Must have been the moisture because a lot of people have been running it brighter without using a higher rated fuse.

 

I turned the bulb on my car around, and the light is MUCH brighter. (the bulb uses is 'blink' filiment instead of it 'driving light' one) and no fuse problems. You might run into problems if using aftermarket mega-power bulbs, but not with the stock type.

Good Luck!

 

Arent you supposed to cut the bottom nub? anyways thats what i did and it seems that the brighter light draws more heat to the plastic housing. Will this cause major problems, like melting the housing or wires?

 

The fuse probably kept blowing with the old socket because of the rust you said you cleaned. Basically, the rust (which is on metal), bridged between the positive and negative of the rusted socket when it was cleaned and made a short. New socket installed, problem solved (hopefully. If not, you're out another $0.10 fuse). Cut the top nub, install bulb backwards, and you've got 27 watt corner lights.

Dave

 

But what about the added heat? wouldnt that pose a problem to the plastic housing and wires?

 

I just popped in a bigger fuse cuz my old one kept popping. Been fine for over 2 years now. I'm using Polarg Blue Hyperwhite bulbs...

 

WO WO WO WOAH, i thought u were supposed cut the lower nub. Because that way when the bulb is reinstalled, the bottom of the bulb is closer to the base of the socket, therefore producing more light. Right? Why would you instead cut off the top nub????? I'm confused here....

 

I did the tin foil method..almost a year now and no probs.

 

It's nothing to do with how close the contact is - an electrical contact is sufficient. It's brighter because you're reversing the bulb, hence the current flows through the higher wattage filament instead of the standard low wattage filament.

I had the same thing with blowing fuses. I ended up just increasing the fuse from 7.5A to 10A. No problems.

 

to tell u the truth i dont think it matters
and all that rust is most likely the moisture..

if u cut bottom, put top in bottoms place

if u cut top, put bottoms in tops place

 

Yes but cutting the top is the more commen sense solution cause i just cut the lower nub and have problems shoving the higher nub into the lower nubs spot...The reason is because of some solder on the link between the bulb and the housing....Therefore to everyone out there
Cut the top nub off and put the lower nub into the top ***'s spot....Its as simple as that.

 

has anyone who done this notice more heat thats drawn to the plastic housing? is there any concern with melting wires and housing. i did this and after a while i touched the housing, and it was hot. so i switched back.

 

well i have had them for awile and havent noticed a diffrence...

 

how long is a while? and you havent had no heating problems? thanx

 

umm bout 2-3 months now..drive reguarly..
no heating problems
no fuse busted...

nothing,
just brightness!

 

Hey, digdug555,

Yes, there is more heat drawn, but probably not enough to melt anything. Your headlights draw much more power/heat, and the gauge of the wire is the same as it is for the corners. The plastic housing should not melt, although it does heat up more. I have gone on LONG (4 hour) trips with these on and I have not had any problems.

 

Thanx cam, the headlights do draw more heat, but its glass as apposed to plastic that the corners are. well i was convinced to switch back to the brighter corners. thanx for everyones help. An sorry MaxRookie, this was your thread and i kinda took it over.