replaced rotors 3 months ago, now i am starting to have squeel? id assume this is the pads since my rotors are new and look fine.

what pads should i get?

any help is appreciated, thanks

 

all maximas squeak unless you get the super cool ones that are supposed to be super silent. cleaning them is always helpful though.

 

Ah ha! so that explains why my brakes started squeaking this week. The pads were changed about three months ago(by the dealer before I bought it).

They cheaped out on it though, the rotors needed turning and they didn't do it and the pads are super soft. The wheels are noticably dirty after a day... ick.

 

when i put my rotors on pads as well as other brake compnents were cleaned with brake cleaner. i also have no idea how old the pads are, i got the car last august. i think it might be time

 

All maximas do not sqeak. Mine doesnt.

Be sure and use lots of brake grease on the slide pins and all over the back of the pads and shims.

 

I had the brakes done at 60k miles at the dealer. By 72k, the fronts were extremely warped and the brakes would fade badly after one hard stop.

So, I put Brembo cross-drilled rotors on the front along with Porterfields front & rear and they are awesome. No fade, no warping, and stops hard with half the effort. Oh, and no sqeaking.

 

Warping is my problem. A major problem at that. I had my brakes done at Midas at the beginning of Feb and they warp earlier this week while on vacation. I really need advice on after marker rotors and pads or maybe just rotors, I have lifetime warranty on the pads at Midas

 

i've had bendix importquiet pads on and they work pretty well IMO

 

I highly recommend the Brembo cross-drilled rotors that you can also get through Porterfield, along with their awesome R4-S pads. The Brembo rotors are heat treated and after hammering on my brakes many times, it still doesn't have any warping signs. With a cross-drilled and vented rotor of quality materials, you shouldn't have a problem. The pads are a carbon-kevlar, which are much more rotor friendly than any metallic and they have a ceramic layer between the pad and the backing plate to keep heat out of the calipers. You'll pay more for the quality, but they'll last you years. I got 3 years from this setup on my 510 that had 3 track days, 6 hillclimbs, 20+ autocrosses, and daily driving and when the pads were finally toast, the rotors were in such good shape, I just put on a new set of pads. Poterfield's website is:
www.porterfield-brakes.com

Hope that helps.

 

dealership ****** didn't put anti squeel glue between the shims and the back of the brakepads in the front and as for the rear... they decided to leave both glue and shims out. No wonder my car has been squeeling so much... i fixed the fronts.

I bought a rear hardware kit and the anti squeel glue already... i just need to get the damn rear brake caliper-whatchamacallit so i can turn piston back easily.

 

dont ever let the dealers work on your car!!!!!

 

Bah... you mean needlenose pliers?

 

should i just use the needlenose pliers? i dunno, ppl been tellin me it's going to be a *****.

i even went looking for that tool made for the rear brakes... the local auto place didn't have it or didn't know what i was talkin about.

 

I have Raybestos Quiet Stop pads that there is virtually no dusting and no squeking

 

Raybestos quietstops fixed my squealing, along with new brembo blanks.

 

I took my car to Sears a couple of times, once for the front and the other time for the back. Both times they were noisy, they looked at the back a couple of times but could not figure out why. I now take it to the dealer here in town and have not had them squeal anymore. The dealer price is $130 or $140, includes new pads and they resurface the rotors. Funny thing is they asked me who did my previous brake job, I asked why, the technician said it was the crappiest job he has seen.

 

best price to buy the raybestos from?

thanks

 

www.rockauto.com

F part # PGD653QS
R part # PGD540QS

Find and click on "part number search" and type those #s. I saved roughly $25 for both F/R vs buying at the local Pepboys.

 

I looked for it too. They knew what I was talking about, but didn't have it.

It's not difficult to do with needlehose pliers. Once you see the piston, you'll understand. It's strange because you have to hold them open rather then squeezing them shut. It takes some force, but once you have it moving, it's really easy.

 

they sell a tool for like 10$ at most auto parts stores to retract these type of pistons
http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...egoryCode=3479

go here and search for brake tools it looks like a cube and a 3/8" extension fits into all sides of it