Sorry about the original blank post - for some reason it just wouldn't post the text.

Got the brake judder TSB done today, and all they'd do is turn the rotors. The dealer refused to replace pads as specified in the TSB, and stated that "even though it is required, it's optional." Thought I was on Candid Camera.

Anyway, they also hooked up the Consult (?) and took a couple of test drives with it to diagnose sluggishness in the upper RPM band (generally 4k +). They claim everything is "within specs", and that I should "run a couple of tanks of high-test through with fuel injector cleaner." Well, I've always run 93 octane, and the owner's manual says not to use fuel injector cleaner.

Par for the course, I suppose.

Craig
2kGLE

 

i had my rotors turned at 9k and they replaced the pads without question. ive got 31k and have been noticing the shaking under braking getting worse again. im going to take it back and see if i can take them up on replacing the rotors and pads again and if not then im going to purchase brembo blanks for the front and most likely hawk pads. funny how the techs recommened injector cleaner when like you said nissan clearly states to stay away from it. i use a bottle of chevron techron fuel system cleaner about every 10k.

 

i had my rotors turned at 9k and they replaced the pads without question. ive got 31k and have been noticing the shaking under braking getting worse again. im going to take it back and see if i can take them up on replacing the rotors and pads again and if not then im going to purchase brembo blanks for the front and most likely hawk pads. funny how the techs recommened injector cleaner when like you said nissan clearly states to stay away from it. i use a bottle of chevron techron fuel system cleaner about every 10k.

 

You do realize that every time you have your rotors turned you actually increase the chance of warpage caused by heat cycling don't you? Thinner rotors are now more susceptible to high heat cycling caused by hard brake useage.

 

yes, but nissan would not replace the rotors the first time. they said if it occured again then they would replace the rotors and pads. if i had some extra money then, i would have just gone for brembo blanks but if i can get them to replace it under the 36k warranty then i will. cutting the rotors and replacing the pads is what is suggested by nissan in their tsb.

 

I have the same problem with brake judder, but I have 53k on my car. Its too late do have the TSB done isn't it? What is the best brands of pads and rotors to buy if I can't have the TSB done?

 

i was told the TSB work was covered under the 3yr/36k warranty. if i were you, i would go with brembo blanks and nissan pads if you want them to be quiet with little brake dust. i think im going to go with hawk pads because i can deal with more dust as long as they perform a little better.

 

That will help your warpage problems.

 

Well, I'm not an idiot, if that's what you're implying. BUT, it doesn't makes sense to pay for new rotors if they'll turn them for free. I'm 1 year from turning in this car off of lease, so I'm not about to make nice performance upgrades for someone else to enjoy.

I've read a few articles talking about how rotor "warpage" sometimes isn't really warping at all, but an uneven buildup of brake pad residue on the rotor. In other words, it may be due more to crappy pads than rotors, although in this case I'm pretty sure they both suck.

All of this said, it doesn't really matter what they do, because they refuse to stop hammering the lugs back on with an impact wrench.

Craig
2kGLE

 

Craig -- Nope wasn't implying you are an idiot just giving you some ammo to hit the dealer with. Then again if its a leased vehicle and you don't plan on buying it who gives a s**t how they fix it as long as it lasts until you turn it in.