Do I need to seperate the hub from the control arm and or tie-rods to get enough free space to pull the axle out?

I looked last night, and it seemed that I would, however neither the haynes manual or motorvate.ca make mention of it.

 

Disconnect the lower strut bolts. That will give you more then enough room to swing the hub out of the way of the Axel.

 

Just disconnect the strut's two bolts and turn the wheel a little. Then pull the hub away from the axel(after taking the nut off the axel of course). It will come out about half way and then you can pound it through with a hammer. Works easily. Then just push in real fast and pull out real hard to get the driver's out and the passengers is real easy.(three bolts and your done.) Shouldn't take you any time at all.

 

The strut towers are already out of the car.

Hammering the axle is not a problem?

 

I just took mine out and all I did was remove the two lower strut bolts, then disconnect the axle from the hub and finally just pull it out of the transmission. It takes a good amount to get the axle out of the transmission. On the longer axle I used it as a slide hammer to pop the axle free by pulling on it repeatedly. Be gentle though.

 

Just changed oil and found both outer CV boots cracked and grease thrown out on my '96 SE. Is changing the entire axle with rebuilt units the way to go? If so, I have the Nissan Shop Manual and getting the old axles out is consistent with all the above advice, and looks straightforward.

BUT putting the new axles in - at least on one side - "requires" the use of a special tool to protect the seal during axle installation. How do real gearheads in the real world perform this step?

Thanx for your help, The Clevite Kid

 

same thing here went to www.raxles.com already got my stuff and its going on today i think. Question: What on earth can I use to get all the cv boot/joint grease of my BEAUTIFUL KYB AGX Struts !!!???

 

I was doing this same thing two weeks ago. I tired to do it without removing the axel from the hub and it was a pain in the a$$. I don't know what your doing, but I was trying to replace the drive-axel seal and w/o removing the whole drive-axel I had no room to work. It was impossible to set the seal properly and I could not get the axel back in. I messed with it for hours. Once I finally removed the whole drive axel the project took less than 15 minutes.
My advice is remove the whole thing if trying to replace the seal. There is enough room to pop out the drive-axel, it just makes it hard to work with and hard to get back in.
I was trying to save time by not removing it and it ended up taking 10X longer.

 

I'm replacing the engine...so I want them out of the car.

I looked at them last night while draining the fluids, but haven't attempted to remove them yet. That's why I'm asking first.

 

Good plan!

 

what are you people doing? Take off the strut bolts and the axle comes out easily in seconds, you just bend it and turn the hub out of the way. not brain surggery.

 

You are correct skeelo34, it slips right out. But my question is, do I need the Kent Moore guards to get the axles back into the Auto Tranny without cutting the new seals? Is there some other trick for reinserting the axles?

Thanx, Lee '96 SE

 

No, just put the axles in carefully the same way you took them. I did it before and had no problem.

 

No, just put the axles in carefully the same way you took them. I did it before and had no problem.

 

Well mine didnt just slip out but i didnt damage them or anything when removing.

 

It doesn't slip out, it pops out. It needs a little yank when pulling it out or putting it in. It's because of that little ring towards the end of the axle.

 

I juss got my axles done; bought them from Raxles and got them installed my someone local..I usually do mods to my car on my own, but I didn't want to risk screwing anything up suspension wise, considering my car already shakes when I drive.