Throwing 3 new cel codes.. please help (slightly long)
Throwing 3 new cel codes.. please help (slightly long)
02 05 - idle speed control
01 02 - mass air flow sensor
04 01 - intake air temp sensor
Drove the car back home last night from the exhaust place after getting everything running and we ran into a throttle cable issue so i couldn't bring my car above 2.5k rpms, which is now resolved but i never saw any boost (did not check cel codes there because I have had an FPCM cel for sometime and didn't think about it then).
Went to start the car this morning and it idled at about 1100 at first and then slowly came down to around 900. Went for a short ride down the street to try and hit boost; took 1st gear to around 3500 and felt really good, took 2nd to about 3000 and everything felt fine. Decided to get on it a little more in 2nd on the turn around and took it to about 4500 and let off the throttle and the car shut off, from there on out it was a battle to keep the car running, all it wanted to do was shut off, wouldn't idle. Vacumm read at 0 after this and wouldn't move at all.
The only things that I can possibly think that may go wrong are somewhere in my MAFS wiring harness, when I extended the wires they weren't extended properly, but I would think it wouldn't even move if they weren't extended right. The intake air sensor is tapped and is sitting identical to the place racing setup, my MAFS is right after that pipe on the charged side. And lastly, I welded in a 3/4" bung for the 3/4" hose that plugged into the piping after the throttle body, but I DID NOT make a 1/8" bung for the vacumm line that is supposed to be on that pipe, I simply tapped it into other vacumm lines.
Thank you, and sorry this is long winded, tried to give as much info as possible.
01 02 - mass air flow sensor
04 01 - intake air temp sensor
Drove the car back home last night from the exhaust place after getting everything running and we ran into a throttle cable issue so i couldn't bring my car above 2.5k rpms, which is now resolved but i never saw any boost (did not check cel codes there because I have had an FPCM cel for sometime and didn't think about it then).
Went to start the car this morning and it idled at about 1100 at first and then slowly came down to around 900. Went for a short ride down the street to try and hit boost; took 1st gear to around 3500 and felt really good, took 2nd to about 3000 and everything felt fine. Decided to get on it a little more in 2nd on the turn around and took it to about 4500 and let off the throttle and the car shut off, from there on out it was a battle to keep the car running, all it wanted to do was shut off, wouldn't idle. Vacumm read at 0 after this and wouldn't move at all.
The only things that I can possibly think that may go wrong are somewhere in my MAFS wiring harness, when I extended the wires they weren't extended properly, but I would think it wouldn't even move if they weren't extended right. The intake air sensor is tapped and is sitting identical to the place racing setup, my MAFS is right after that pipe on the charged side. And lastly, I welded in a 3/4" bung for the 3/4" hose that plugged into the piping after the throttle body, but I DID NOT make a 1/8" bung for the vacumm line that is supposed to be on that pipe, I simply tapped it into other vacumm lines.
Thank you, and sorry this is long winded, tried to give as much info as possible.
well, i was just peeking around the engine bay and finding a small oil leak on the valve cover on the very bottom right side in front of the oil send plug, so i think i need to replace the seal that was in there.
but in doing this i leaned on the charge pipe and realized it was not even on the throttle body, hence why i think it wouldnt start and stay on, wouldnt idle right and etc.. i am going to start the car up after i go and get some food and see if it will drive around again, anything i should be sure to try and avoid right now?
but in doing this i leaned on the charge pipe and realized it was not even on the throttle body, hence why i think it wouldnt start and stay on, wouldnt idle right and etc.. i am going to start the car up after i go and get some food and see if it will drive around again, anything i should be sure to try and avoid right now?
Originally posted by thebigsadler
well, i was just peeking around the engine bay and finding a small oil leak on the valve cover on the very bottom right side in front of the oil send plug, so i think i need to replace the seal that was in there.
but in doing this i leaned on the charge pipe and realized it was not even on the throttle body, hence why i think it wouldnt start and stay on, wouldnt idle right and etc.. i am going to start the car up after i go and get some food and see if it will drive around again, anything i should be sure to try and avoid right now?
well, i was just peeking around the engine bay and finding a small oil leak on the valve cover on the very bottom right side in front of the oil send plug, so i think i need to replace the seal that was in there.
but in doing this i leaned on the charge pipe and realized it was not even on the throttle body, hence why i think it wouldnt start and stay on, wouldnt idle right and etc.. i am going to start the car up after i go and get some food and see if it will drive around again, anything i should be sure to try and avoid right now?
lol, try not to beat on it too much until you verify everything is working correctly(wastegate opening when it's supposed to, bov, fuel pressure rising accordingly, etc...). and go dyno tune.
Jason,
Do not take this as hating, just trying to help.
Your maf wires are righ tnest to the compressor.
I would be a little worried about that. You may have melted them. The compressor gets VERY hot as well.
Do not take this as hating, just trying to help.
Your maf wires are righ tnest to the compressor.
I would be a little worried about that. You may have melted them. The compressor gets VERY hot as well.
Originally posted by bags533
Jason,
Do not take this as hating, just trying to help.
Your maf wires are righ tnest to the compressor.
I would be a little worried about that. You may have melted them. The compressor gets VERY hot as well.
Jason,
Do not take this as hating, just trying to help.
Your maf wires are righ tnest to the compressor.
I would be a little worried about that. You may have melted them. The compressor gets VERY hot as well.
drove the car this morning, blew off a different pipe
got that all fixed and saw 5psi in first gear and around 6 in second, but people were running and yelling at me so i couldnt concentrate. i think jeff is graduating me from neighborhood driving to street driving to get some groceries later, that is what we built this for, to get groceries faster.thanks for your help thomas, i will probably have more questions soon and i will be dyno tuning next week after all the ceramic coating and chrome is done.
jason
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
i would avoid driving around too much especially if your boost pipe came off the TB. You'll be running super rich (cos the ECU thinks you are blowing in more air than you actually are ... IF your MAF is working properly that is) If you run a long time that rich, you will destroy your O2 sensors and CAT. I have toasted my O2s before.
Originally posted by turbo97SE
i would avoid driving around too much especially if your boost pipe came off the TB. You'll be running super rich (cos the ECU thinks you are blowing in more air than you actually are ... IF your MAF is working properly that is) If you run a long time that rich, you will destroy your O2 sensors and CAT. I have toasted my O2s before.
i would avoid driving around too much especially if your boost pipe came off the TB. You'll be running super rich (cos the ECU thinks you are blowing in more air than you actually are ... IF your MAF is working properly that is) If you run a long time that rich, you will destroy your O2 sensors and CAT. I have toasted my O2s before.
took it for a drive today, first official "drive" and it was off the chid-ain!! so nice to feel the boost.. ripping it all apart for chrome and ceramics, and t-bolt clamps are on order with all black couplers, the ones on there are very temporary. i am actually trying to find a local place to get them from, instead of ordering them, ideas?
jason
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