and issues...

OK...just an update real quick then the questions. I'm in the process of trying to finish up the engine and tranny conversion from a 97 to a 95. Mechanically, everything is where it is supposed to be...that includes clutch pedal/engine/shifter/ and what not.

Since I had/own both the donor and recepient..my mechanic and I decided why not do a real conversion with wiring harnesses and all. So today, I pull apart the dashes and go to town (putting a nice 1.5 inch gash on my right wrist from the crashed max's windshield) and end up swapping out the harnesses. This gave me back all the necessary plugs for the clutch pedal/brake and everything else under the dash, except the plugs for the driver's side airbag and the airbag module to not fit (no biggie, I'm putting a 97 steering wheel on it anyways)

Ok..with everything in...there are now 2 problems (more may creep up)

1. It seems that the master clutch cylinder is bad, no pressure even with the hose unplugged and pumping the pedal, no fluid comes out...so I'm getting a new one tomorrow. (let me know if you think thats a good analysis)

2. The fuel pump is not recieving current from the fuel pump relay which has current flowing. I checked the pump and it is ok...no its gotta be something between the relay and the pump...dunno what...any input would be appreciated.

Other than that...the gauges and everything light up properly...everything functions as it should..but the car won't start...cranks and cranks, but no start...

Thanks for reading

 

A long shot on the fuel pump would be the fuse....

 

forgot to say that we checked that too...fuses are good...relay clicks..something in the wiring...I'm thinking that I have to rip the dash again tomorrow just to check all the connections again...what a pain..

 

Wow, it would be ALOT simpler if I was there to check it out but PA Ive had a car come in be4 were he thought the clutch master was bad...well Id start the car up and couldnt change the gears at all while running...shut it off, threw it in 1st, started again and eased off the brake while the clutch was 100% disengaged to my surprise I start moving pretty quick If I left off the brake any faster it would have stalled. Later inspection led me to find the master and slave were both in perfect condition.
The clutch had blow up! The face on the flywheel side was completly gone. After slightly sperating the tranny from the block few 3-4" peices of clutch fell out so that did it alright.

I think that your best bet would be to solve the starting problem 1st, what good is a good clutch master if the car wont run. As to what the problem is, well I was I could tell you but to solve this problem from here is gonna be a miracle.

 

somewhere in the fuel pump circuit you'll probably find a crash switch that shuts off the pump in an accident.

 

Emergency fuel shutoff switch.

 

the safety switch is what I think you guys are refering to...well after the accident..the car was running for about 5-7 minutes before I shut it off...so I don't think its that...I hear you on the master cylinder thing...but the tranny and engine never got separated...just swapped both still attached. I'm totally lost so I'm leaving the car for now...mechanic says he'll have the car totally ready for my on Tuesday night (I'm not holding my breath) but soon enough...we should figure it out.

ALso how can one tell if the master cylinder is bad once I've pulled it out of the car?

thanks,

-=Frustrated NUpe=-

 

Concerning the master cylinder, if the actuator rod is not adjusted correctly, then it is possible to get it into a mode where it will not pressurize the hydraulic line. I find this out last week when I attempted to adjust the clutch pedal play and got it so that the pedal pushed the rod too far into the master cylinder. When that happens the rod doesn't come back out far enough when you let off the pedal. I know this is clear as mud, but bottom line is you should check the pedal play against what the FSM says before you buy a new clutch master cylinder.

 

Thanx Stephen, but I think my mechanic feels safer with a new one...and after 109k why not...u know?

 

mine's got almost 200k and it's still fine. I rebuilt it a while back for ***** and giggles, but it didn't fix the problem... I had the same thing after replacing a clutch and flushing the hydraulic lines.


the problem is that the master cylinder gets a small air bubble in it and there's nothing to get it out. best way I've found to get around the problem is to use a pressure bleeder. put a small amount of air pressure on the master cylinder reservoir (buy an extra cap and drill a hole in the lid. pressurize it to 2-5psi), THEN pump the clutch pedal. it should force the air bubble out of the cylinder and through the lines, then out the slave cylinder.

it's really a PIA. also watch out when pumping the pedal that you don't suck the reservoir empty. after f***ing around with the pedal for 30 minutes the first time, it finally pushed the bubble out on its own and sucked the resivoir dry in about 2 pumps of the clutch pedal! DOH! then I had to start all over.

 

oh...hmmm...so it could still be good...and just have air in it? Ok...I'll look at that.

Thanks Matt

 

yup, exactly. run into that problem several times with small master cylinders like these. total, complete PIA they are.