Cattman VQ30DE headers pics - for ALL 95-01 Maximas/I30s
Cattman VQ30DE headers pics - for ALL 95-01 Maximas/I30s
Sorry for the delay while I was away, but here are the pics we shot today of the Cattman Performance VQ30DE header system. I'll let the picture pretty much speak for itself, but will note that the quality of welding and craftsmanship is outstanding, my Kiwi mates did well.

Also note the one-piece primaries and equal length secondaries. This illustrates why the system has to be designed as a whole, including the y-pipe. All the flanges are extra thick, the flex is strong and lined. The sound made by the equal length tubing is like music - the classic deep warble, instead of a harsh buzz - unlike any y-pipe I've ever heard.
Price is $750. All gaskets and hardware needed are an extra $20. These are on the shelf, ready to ship and will fit ALL 1995-2001 VQ30DE engines. I finally realized all that's needed to make these work on the CA/NLEV vehicles is the same solution used for conversion to Federal-spec manifolds, i.e. simply re-positioning the rear 2 O2 sensors behind the cat.
Note that it breaks down into 4 pieces and the shipping rates aren't that bad. We do include installation instructions, but not for the fainthearted or inexperienced.
The following dyno chart compares the headers with a stock y-pipe on a rather tired 97 SE with 100k+ miles. Note that the tested headers were not ceramic coated, and this will have a significant effect on heat retention and tubing wall friction (which will likely be good for a couple more horsepower).

Although peak horsepower increased by 16.4hp and peak torque by 14.9 ft/lbs, this does not describe how the power curve was extended by 500+ rpm instead of falling off a cliff. The Cattman headers added 16.5-18.6 more hp from 4800-6200 rpm and 15.5-18.5 more ft/lbs of torque from 4600-5800 rpm.
[BTW, have to say, the photographer did well on this. If anyone wants a more detailed image, feel free to contact me directly, I have a version you could use for a poster (and a shot without the gaskets).]
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance

Also note the one-piece primaries and equal length secondaries. This illustrates why the system has to be designed as a whole, including the y-pipe. All the flanges are extra thick, the flex is strong and lined. The sound made by the equal length tubing is like music - the classic deep warble, instead of a harsh buzz - unlike any y-pipe I've ever heard.
Price is $750. All gaskets and hardware needed are an extra $20. These are on the shelf, ready to ship and will fit ALL 1995-2001 VQ30DE engines. I finally realized all that's needed to make these work on the CA/NLEV vehicles is the same solution used for conversion to Federal-spec manifolds, i.e. simply re-positioning the rear 2 O2 sensors behind the cat.
Note that it breaks down into 4 pieces and the shipping rates aren't that bad. We do include installation instructions, but not for the fainthearted or inexperienced.
The following dyno chart compares the headers with a stock y-pipe on a rather tired 97 SE with 100k+ miles. Note that the tested headers were not ceramic coated, and this will have a significant effect on heat retention and tubing wall friction (which will likely be good for a couple more horsepower).

Although peak horsepower increased by 16.4hp and peak torque by 14.9 ft/lbs, this does not describe how the power curve was extended by 500+ rpm instead of falling off a cliff. The Cattman headers added 16.5-18.6 more hp from 4800-6200 rpm and 15.5-18.5 more ft/lbs of torque from 4600-5800 rpm.
[BTW, have to say, the photographer did well on this. If anyone wants a more detailed image, feel free to contact me directly, I have a version you could use for a poster (and a shot without the gaskets).]
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
good to hear. i was curious if you had any kind of time frame for the release of the cali spec headers? i understand what is involved and i would just rather wait for the cali specific than screwing up a 750 header trying to convert it.
Originally Posted by sloppymax
good to hear. i was curious if you had any kind of time frame for the release of the cali spec headers? i understand what is involved and i would just rather wait for the cali specific than screwing up a 750 header trying to convert it.
I think they are the same... he mentions that the downstream O2 sensors need to be relocated to behind the cat... The front precat must be removed as well to bolt these up.
Originally Posted by UMD_MaxSE
I think they are the same... he mentions that the downstream O2 sensors need to be relocated to behind the cat... The front precat must be removed as well to bolt these up.
Hey is it possible to get a pic of the OEM exhaust assembly in this thread? to sorta have a before and after pic i would like to compare what i got now (stock) with this beautiful PIC. TIA
Duh i didnt even see the post above mine, but im askinig the same thing he is.
Duh i didnt even see the post above mine, but im askinig the same thing he is.
Anyone who wants to see what's pretty much involved in extending the 02-sensors or what the STOCK headers vs. Catman headers look like, check here:
Manifolds:
http://www.desertpearlmax2.homestead.com/Fed_YPipe.html
Stock FRONT manifold is on RIGHT side:

O2-sensor relocation:
http://www.desertpearlmax2.homestead.com/O2_Sensor.html
Manifolds:
http://www.desertpearlmax2.homestead.com/Fed_YPipe.html
Stock FRONT manifold is on RIGHT side:

O2-sensor relocation:
http://www.desertpearlmax2.homestead.com/O2_Sensor.html
Just make sure to add a flex section(flange also
).
Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
Damn, these are calling my name. I got an idea to make these work for my turbo setup. I can actually make these work now that I think about it.
Dixit
Dixit
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Just make sure to add a flex section(flange also
).
Hahahha I crave to use this welder at times. Ive cut up my left over pipes just to weld for fun. I just gotta figure out where Im going to put the flex. I may put two of them, one on the feed and one on the down.Dixit
Originally Posted by sloppymax
good to hear. i was curious if you had any kind of time frame for the release of the cali spec headers? i understand what is involved and i would just rather wait for the cali specific than screwing up a 750 header trying to convert it.
I think the header is ready now for the Cali-spec cars because even if we put all the O2 sensors into the header, there would still be the emissions issues to solve, i.e. the O2 sensors that are meant to be on the downstream side of the precats will not signal a change in O2, since the precats are gone and will generate error codes.
There are two solutions, neither of which involves installing additional O2 sensors in the header. One could experiment with the bogus signal solution, which I don't know much about but involves substituting sender units that provide the correct signal (and, as I understand it, these do not need to be exposed to the exhaust stream so could be anywhere). The other is the solution pioneered by others when they did CA/NLEV-to-Federal conversions, i.e. installing two O2 ports in the mid-pipe and moving the two rear sensors back there so they do recognize a difference in O2 content and do not throw a code. This would involve going to a muffler shop for the welding and properly extending the wiring so that the O2 sensors can be moved back a little ways.
To facilitate this conversion, we may see about making one of our mid-pipes available with two sensor holes (they have one already) or possible taking a 95/96 RT cat, which has one O2 sensor installed on the downstream side already, and putting in another. But this would only be a convenience, there's nothing that challenging about relocating the two O2 sensors.
All well-intended input is appreciated.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
Hmm.. i have a spare VQ35 sitting on a stand in the garage. Id like to see how these bolt up.
So would I!!! The first thing to check might be comparing the shape of the manifold gaskets, which we obviously have on hand.
We don't have the FWD VQ35DE engines in New Zealand yet, so we can't do the development there until they switch up. The Kiwis have been getting the Japanese-spec VQ30DE in a MEVI-type configuration through the 03 model year.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Originally Posted by HKMax
It would also be nice to see side-by-side shot with the stock headers.
BCC
Originally Posted by Cattman
So would I!!! The first thing to check might be comparing the shape of the manifold gaskets, which we obviously have on hand.
We don't have the FWD VQ35DE engines in New Zealand yet, so we can't do the development there until they switch up. The Kiwis have been getting the Japanese-spec VQ30DE in a MEVI-type configuration through the 03 model year.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
We don't have the FWD VQ35DE engines in New Zealand yet, so we can't do the development there until they switch up. The Kiwis have been getting the Japanese-spec VQ30DE in a MEVI-type configuration through the 03 model year.
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Originally Posted by BigDogJonx
Damn, these are calling my name. I got an idea to make these work for my turbo setup. I can actually make these work now that I think about it.
Dixit
Dixit
No reason why they wouldn't work, I was hoping the picture would help someone imagine just how that might be done.
BCC
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
BTW, don't forget THOSE dynos are for a 4th gen VQ30DE, which does NOT have the 5th gen variable intake manifold.
That should mean even better gains!
That should mean even better gains!

A valid observation, since they do have the effect of extending the power curve even in a cam- and intake plenum-limited '97. Once the headers are in a 5th gen, the engine can breathe well enough to take better advantage of the variable intake.
BCC
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
You could always test this on my car for a FREE set of course Brian.

Gee, how could I possibley refuse an opportunity like that?
Glad to hear the testing would be free, now all you need to do is come up with $750 and a few hundred for installation. I've got a mechanic who can't wait to put on his second set.
BCC
No, as long as the fronts are operating. During normal operation ONLY the fronts are used in closed-loop operation to adjust fuel-trim.
If the fronts die, the ECU will rely on the rears for limp-mode, but I'm sure the CEL or something would have lit by then.
If the fronts die, the ECU will rely on the rears for limp-mode, but I'm sure the CEL or something would have lit by then.
Originally Posted by sloppymax
sorry if this sounds like a newbie question, but would relocating 2 o2 sensors behind the cat cause any issues with regard to a/f for the cali specs?
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
No, as long as the fronts are operating. During normal operation ONLY the fronts are used in closed-loop operation to adjust fuel-trim.
If the fronts die, the ECU will rely on the rears for limp-mode, but I'm sure the CEL or something would have lit by then.
If the fronts die, the ECU will rely on the rears for limp-mode, but I'm sure the CEL or something would have lit by then.
Originally Posted by MyownNismo
Can you dyno the headers against your y-pipe. I don't want to fork out the $$$ if it's only going to give me 5 extra HP.
i see these headers kind of work like VI's cause they increase the hp in the upper end power curve longer than y-pipe...better breathing does wonders iguess?
Originally Posted by [maxi-overdose]
it would be nice to see a dyno graph of an SC maxima with cattman header and cat-back.
any tips on removing the rear manifold?
any tips on removing the rear manifold?
He already did.........
Originally Posted by Cattman
......come up with $750 and a few hundred for installation. I've got a mechanic who can't wait to put on his second set.
Originally Posted by '[maxi-overdose
any tips on removing the rear manifold?
Get yourself a 6 point 14mm socket, a swivel and plenty of extensions to remove the two hard to get two bolts. Many of you will make a mess if you try to use 12 point sockets.
In many cases the stud will come out with the nut but they're easy to separate once removed. A 1/4" socket will attach to the reverse star end of the stud so u can hold it while you remove the nut with a 14mm wrench.
When you remove the fans to make space for removing the front, cover the radiator with a large piece of cardboard to avoid scaring it up.
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
He already did.........


are you talking about the dyno? I dont recall that i see one
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
I have tried about every way possible and the easiest is to remove the center engine cradle then support the engine with a tripod. I always use a lift but I know most of you do not have that luxury.
Get yourself a 6 point 14mm socket, a swivel and plenty of extensions to remove the two hard to get two bolts. Many of you will make a mess if you try to use 12 point sockets.
In many cases the stud will come out with the nut but they're easy to separate once removed. A 1/4" socket will attach to the reverse star end of the stud so u can hold it while you remove the nut with a 14mm wrench.
When you remove the fans to make space for removing the front, cover the radiator with a large piece of cardboard to avoid scaring it up.
Get yourself a 6 point 14mm socket, a swivel and plenty of extensions to remove the two hard to get two bolts. Many of you will make a mess if you try to use 12 point sockets.
In many cases the stud will come out with the nut but they're easy to separate once removed. A 1/4" socket will attach to the reverse star end of the stud so u can hold it while you remove the nut with a 14mm wrench.
When you remove the fans to make space for removing the front, cover the radiator with a large piece of cardboard to avoid scaring it up.
how's your engine swap?ic...so you do have to move the engine a little to get the stock manifold out.

I noticed that 6 point socket works better than the 12 point most of the time. I arealdy stripped 2 12 point scokets.
Originally Posted by [maxi-overdose]
are you talking about the dyno? I dont recall that i see one
thx for the tips.
how's your engine swap?
ic...so you do have to move the engine a little to get the stock manifold out.
I noticed that 6 point socket works better than the 12 point most of the time. I arealdy stripped 2 12 point scokets.
thx for the tips.
how's your engine swap?ic...so you do have to move the engine a little to get the stock manifold out.

I noticed that 6 point socket works better than the 12 point most of the time. I arealdy stripped 2 12 point scokets.
The engine swap is long since done and making good power. I trapped 98.6 MPH my first time out on the track last Friday night. Best NA trap for me.
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
You do not have to move the engine, just remove clutter.
The engine swap is long since done and making good power. I trapped 98.6 MPH my first time out on the track last Friday night. Best NA trap for me.
The engine swap is long since done and making good power. I trapped 98.6 MPH my first time out on the track last Friday night. Best NA trap for me.
good job!
is your new engine a salvage engine?
Before everybody gets all exited this is yust an FYI. Check it out and draw your own conlusions:
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/504
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/504
Originally Posted by Cattman
The following dyno chart compares the headers with a stock y-pipe on a rather tired 97 SE with 100k+ miles. Note that the tested headers were not ceramic coated, and this will have a significant effect on heat retention and tubing wall friction (which will likely be good for a couple more horsepower).

Although peak horsepower increased by 16.4hp and peak torque by 14.9 ft/lbs, this does not describe how the power curve was extended by 500+ rpm instead of falling off a cliff. The Cattman headers added 16.5-18.6 more hp from 4800-6200 rpm and 15.5-18.5 more ft/lbs of torque from 4600-5800 rpm.
[BTW, have to say, the photographer did well on this. If anyone wants a more detailed image, feel free to contact me directly, I have a version you could use for a poster (and a shot without the gaskets).]
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance

Although peak horsepower increased by 16.4hp and peak torque by 14.9 ft/lbs, this does not describe how the power curve was extended by 500+ rpm instead of falling off a cliff. The Cattman headers added 16.5-18.6 more hp from 4800-6200 rpm and 15.5-18.5 more ft/lbs of torque from 4600-5800 rpm.
[BTW, have to say, the photographer did well on this. If anyone wants a more detailed image, feel free to contact me directly, I have a version you could use for a poster (and a shot without the gaskets).]
Brian C Catts
Cattman Performance
Originally Posted by 6SPD_HLSD
Before everybody gets all exited this is yust an FYI. Check it out and draw your own conlusions:
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/504
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/504
What are you trying to say?
Cattman is releasing the 2K2+ Y-pipe, so don't hold your breath on a long-tube headers. It just wouldn't make business sense.
G35c? As in buying one?
G35c? As in buying one?
Originally Posted by blubyu2k2
after seeing pics of the stillen headers I think I will wait on cattmans for the 02-03 or possibly look into g35c's...



