Whew! What a day.

1) pulled off MEVI
2) removed fuel rail
3) popped out old injectors
4) popped in new injectors
5) reinstalled fuel rail
6) installed USIM (MEVI throat is being enlarged for 70 mm throttle body)
7) installed aftermarket fpr to adjust fuel pressure back down to 34/43 psi
8) installed Z32 maf
9) spliced Z32 maf harness connector to maf harness
10) started her up

She runs!

I was very apprehensive when I turned the key. So many things could have gone wrong, like the fpr malfunctioning, the ecu not being programmed right, the z32 maf being bad, the injectors being bad, etc. but she started right up.

One thing that really concerned me was that the color of the injectors I bought were an olive drab. Everything I've read and heard was that the 95-96 300ZX TT injectors are purple. I talked to Dave Burnette about it, who called several Z32 owners and they all said either purple was right or they didn't know. Finally I called the number of the performance shop listed on the invoice supplied by the guy I bought the injectors from and they reassured me that not all TT injectors were purple. So I thought what the heck, either they are or they aren't, and I'll know when I start the car.

The first few minutes she idled real rough, like she wasn't firing on all cylinders, but after warming up she smoothed out and I took her for a test drive. She ran nice and smooth and I could feel a little more low end power, but I think that was due to the USIM. I am not able to do any boosting yet because I just replaced the A32 maf with the Z32 maf, i.e. in the standard blow through position. JWT cautions against doing that since you can blow the maf if it is not in a draw through configuration. I'll reposition it in front of the blower tomorrow and find out what she can do under boost.

 

Do the bigger fuel injectors themselves actually add power? For instance, I am now running 9-10psi, on stock injectors, and they handle the boost just fine. If I upgraded to 370cc Injectors, keeping everything else the same, would I see a power increase? I always thought bigger injectors were just done to handle more boost/fuel, and for safety, not necissarily for power.

 

No, Craig, all they do is allow me to run up to 420 hp (at the crank) with 43 psi of fuel pressure. How I get to 420 hp all depends on how much air I can pump into the engine, and that is determined by pulley size, or what the wastegate is set at if I go turbo.

To me, not having to worry about fuel pressure is well worth the expense and the trouble. Not that it was much trouble at all, it's a great way to spend a Saturday.

 

Congrats! Now get the maf over so you can test out your new redline

 

Relocating the MAF sounds like such a pain in the ***! I'm hesitant about doing it, since so many people are running sick amounts of horsepower through their stock MAF's, and it can apparently be over-worked via eManage + the MAF addition harness. Are you going to be custom fabbing stuff to attach it to a CAI on the SC? If so, could you toss out some details on what you had to do to get it connected properly

 

the z maf is NOT the maxima maf.... it needs to be relocated or learn the hard way before having to move it.

 

I've already worked out all the details related to relocating the Z maf, and as a matter of fact, I have had a Z maf in place in front of the blower for the past week. I just haven't made a harness to reach it yet (was sick from ragweed yesterday ), so right now I've got two maf's, one before the blower and one in the normal place between the blower and the throttle body. Only the latter is hooked up, though. Once I make the harness I'll replace it with pipe.

I used an OEM rubber boot that connects the air filter to the throttle body (on a Z) to connect the maf to the blower inlet. It has a sharp 90* bend and it allows the maf to sit high enough in the fender well so that I can attach a filter to it. Right now I'm using a JWT pop charger bolted to the end of the maf. I like the pop charger for the radiused inlet ring (efficient design to minimize pressure drop) but the filter seems like it might be a little smaller than the SC-CAI filter.

Here's a pic of the boot: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2435038702

Notice that the rubber boot has a breather hose fitting already molded into it for air recirculation from the bov.

 

Ahh. I assumed you'd have to custom fab an attachment with a set of bolts in order to attach it properly. Does that mean that the Z32 MAF just has the standard slide-on attachments (ie, like most of the crossover piping).

And Confused -- I know about the issues of running a Z maf, I just wanted to know how he was relocating it. I just thought with the amount of HP people are running on their stock MAFS, it might not be necessary. However, I've been told that the amount of air flowing through someones setup like hal, is over the amount that a stock MAF can recognize (something like 350hp?). However since the FMU doesn't need to know the amount of air, and just the pressure level, it still adjusts the fuel accordingly and boom -- it works.

 

Yes, the Z32 maf looks exactly like the Maxima maf from the outside, so the rubber boot I bought slips over one end and the JWT pop charger bolts onto the other end.

People running the Maxima maf are maxing it out if they are above 350 crank hp. That's okay, because they are using a boost-referenced fmu (and maybe safc or other piggy-back controller) to supply the proper amount of fuel during boost.

By the way, if you are maxing out the maf then your injectors are at 100% duty cycle and you cannot enrich the afr using the safc. Before you hit 100% duty cycle, the ecu is adjusting injector pulse width based on the air the maf senses, so when boosting you get afr enrichment from the ecu AND the fmu, which is why safc settings all start out in the minus region at lower rpm and then at the point when the maf is maxed they go strongly positive.

Having a purely flow-referenced afr tuning setup avoids all this, plus I get fuel mapping and timing retard based on hundreds of dyno runs of boosted Z's, and a 7200 rpm redline as icing on the cake.

 

Waiting on the results of the dyno, BTW are you going to have you A/F checked on the dyno to see where you are?

 

definently....sounds very tasty indeed.

 

Yep. After I get the MEVI back on.

 

nice call on the part stephen...

ereet,, my bad, i misread your post.

 

congrats stephen!

now with JWT ECU and injectors, you dont have to use the FMU, right?

and how much is a 300ZXTT injector?


now I really need to get some injectors to solve my fuel pressure problem.

hope Ice2k1's injector thread will bring me some good news.

 

Stephen That is how you RELIABLY increase power.

I would have flow tested ONE of your injectors just to make sure. Just because it runs, we can assume it's 370cc? Or will the wide-band on the dyno tell the truth?

Also, have you noticed the difference on your pulse width monitor?

 

YOU could always help speed things up of course.

 

how? I am broke and have no knowledge in injectors/ECU.

all I know is that if I keep pushing 100psi+ into my stock injectors, it will leak and die one day.

other than that....I know,
-Kevin tried the RC engineering injectors and it doesnt fit. They told him to add a washer to raise the injectors a little but turned out the injectors will touch the fuel rail.

-Cheston told me that he max'ed out that stock 350z injectors with his turbo kit in the last nor-cal maxima meet. I also read about the flow test he did.....So, does this mean that 350z injectors are the same ones from our engine?


let me know how can I help


meanwhile, I am going to do some more ! good thread, very interesting stuff!

 

Well once you have an injector stick and nuke your piston jOo going to spend about the same on a junker plus the PITA to swap.

Yes, I believe we use the same injectors, however nothing definitive will be known until someone(read YOU!) tries.

[edit]
I'm going to find a 350Z(hopefully Chestons) and -K injector to test and compare physically.
[/edit]

 

I bought the injectors from an org member in good standing. The injectors came with documentation showing they had been flow tested by RC engineering to 370 cc/min. But you're right, the wide-band on the dyno will tell the truth. I kinda wish I had done what you suggest and flow tested one just to be sure. I'm kind of nervous about boosting to 7k.

Until I get the recirc system worked out I'm not boosting, so I've only been accelerating under part throttle. The pulse width monitor hasn't been telling me much yet.

 

Can you post the RC Engineering report?

 

IceY2k1, you are a little mountain of knowledge, you know more about supercharged maximas then most owners of supercharged maximas. Is boost in your future? Or do you just like to fantasize that you are boosted?

 

Just because I don't drive a boosted Maxima doesn't mean I don't know anything about them NOR does someone owning a boosted Maxima mean they know jack sheit. I've learned MOST of what I know from this board or reading books/websites NOT actual hands on experience. I believe actual hands on is more valuable and I take advantage of any opportunities that come my way.

Yes, I live through YOUR guys modding, since my wife has my wallet hidden where I'll never find it. Boost IS in my future, but most likely not on my Maxima unless finances change in the future. However, I do/have worked on other boosted cars that aren't mine, but most of my "knowledge" is from reading so take it for what it's worth. I try to specify whether I'm regurgitating what I'm posting or I know for a fact, however a lot of the time I get a little carried away.

 

WEll from what I have learned about boost, Turbo's are the same no matter if they are in an 18 wheeler or on a supra.

The same goes with SC's, there are a few difference's, but they basicly all operate the same.

This was learned form members on this board and supra, ls1, gti, mustang, rx7, and other various forums.

And I have learned a bit from you ICY

ANd live through my modding.... I live through others.. ( HURRY UP MATT )

but here is a question for you, I drained my automatic tranny fluid yesterday and it was PINK and looked VERY thick like spoiled milk.

Thank god I have 3 other witnesses to this, I should have taken a pic of it.

Ever heard of that.. and FYI the car sat for 24 hours before I drained it

 

Have no experience in that, however I HIGHLY suggest you take a sample and send it into Blackstone at least for kicks on what they say.

However, I'm pretty sure all those brake stands to build boost caused you to overheat the fluid, which caused it to thicken.

Got tranny cooler? If so, sounds like it's time for a tranny swap.

 

Yeah I got the haden 401 I think...

Tranny WHO?

 

coolant/water mixture got into the tranny.

try this...bypass the cooler in the radiator and only use the tranny cooler and see if it still turns out the same.


if it doesnt, it confirms that your radiator has a leak.

 

Stephen, why would you worry about the Re-circ system, I don't have mine in yet, and the car drives fine under boost... just a little backfire sometimes coming off of boost.

-Del

 

I have been ONLY using the HADEN since I installed it

 

that's strange.....tranny fluid turns to pink and smell funny when it got mixxed with water.

 

hope I will get larger injectors before this happens

 

My bov releases air at idle, so I have to recirculate it in order to keep the idle mixture correct. At least that was my thinking. Maybe I'll try it without the recirc, although it seems to be working fine. You don't have any idling problems?

 

That's what I think, too. But how did my thread turn into a tranny fluid color thread??? Shoo! Shoo! Go start your own thread!

 

my apology

 

Stephen,

In closed-loop, ie at idle or part throttle w/light load, your ECU will compensate via 02-sensor feedback. During WOT you will be relying on your JWT map.

Either way you're going to be rich, so I don't see what you're worried about.

 

Oops...NM. You're only worried about killing the JWT MAF.

Sorry, I missed that.

 

At idle, I don't think the ecu can compensate enough. The SC blower moves a surprising amount of air at idle, unlike a turbo system. I once disconnected the air hose leading to the IAC, just for grins, so that air was escaping through the air hose much like it would through the bov. My engine idled extremely rich due to the metered air escaping. It was so rich that the tail pipe starting smoking and the engine bogged.

 

Was that once the car was completely warm?

 

Sorry, I don't remember, exactly, but I think it was somewhat warm.

 

Sorry.. stephenbags

 

so how has this setup been working?

I would like to see some pics of the z32 mounted.

EDIT: is there a way to pretest a z32 MAF to make sure it will work correctly?