Went down to the dyno with a bunch of locals here in the NW and did a couple runs. It was me, Jeff92se, MrGone, Spipedong92se, LittlePiggie, a 2nd gen, and a few other 4th gens (one with a V2 on it). Jeff also ran on the dyno (he was actually before me), ran respectable numbers considering his mods, but I'll leave it up to him to let you know how he did.

Anyway, first run for me I pulled 164.5 in max HP and 163.4 in max TQ. The second run wasn't so great at 161.5 in max HP and 151.0 in max TQ. I'll post a picture of the graph later. I even (thanks to MrGone) will be providing video for my two runs (and Jeff's if he so wishes).

Anyway, I hope that helps those who are wishing to know the figures that a pretty well much stock (except for a cone filter) 93 SE 5spd runs.

 

I'm jealous. I wish I could have made it up there. Maybe next time.

 

Here's my two runs if anyone is interested.
(pic removed)

Check out the site: http://launch2k.com/maxima/dyno/

Videos for the two runs are up there as well. You will need Windows Media Player 9 to view them.

 

that sounds purdy.... nice flat torque cur-.... i mean plateau!

 

yay for Driving with Dave in the Rain

Since Dave and my cars are practically the same mechanically (pretty much all stock, except for he has a K&N, I have a stock Modified air box) but he is on the stock clutch/flywheel and I have the Exedy Clutch/Fidanza flywheel, we both drove each others cars. Man what a difference!!!!! I didnt think mine revved that much faster, but after a side by side comparison, its insane. For instance in neutral, I blip my gas pedal and the tach shoots up, but to get the same height out of dave's, you have to hold down the pedal for a few seconds. My VTC's were grounded, I dont believe his are. All in all, I think Dave had a very good run for being stock. His car is also easier to drive than mine

Once I can tinker with the VTC's abit more, and get a 470k resistor, I'd like to dyno my car so I can compare stock VE vs. stock VE w/Fidanza.

Thats all for now. I'm sure I'll think of more later.

 

I have three extra resistors. You can have one if you want.

 

Mine wasn't nearly as flat as Jeff's was.

Jeff you should really post up a pic of your dyno sheet for everyone to oogle at.

 

Cool! I'll get it when we bleed your clutch, swap your clutch, or whenever

I need more money, I really want to tighten up my suspension now

 

I definitely know how you feel. Eibach's may be in the mail by this week though (since I have been saving up for the past month for them). Tokicos should be here before Thanksgiving.

 

Just curious, what is the 470K resistor for?

 

Thats probably to bypass the knock sensor. I heard its not good, but I did it and it made a noticable difference. Its just a temporary fix though.

 

Yes, the 470k ohm resistor basically fakes out your ECU to think that everything is good. Cause a working knock sensor reports something like 490k ohms of resistance when its working fine.

It's always a good idea to retard your timing a bit and run 92 octane gas, as you will probably hear a little bit of pinging (I did at first but later corrected it).

 

from what i heard thats not the best thing to do. just save up for the knock sensor and put a new one in. youll save yourself headaces later on.

 

Yeah, I just need to find the time and money to do it. One question though, will the knocking/pinging be loud enough to hear? I have never heard my engine knock after I did this, but the fact that I might not be able to hear the knock scares me.

 

when you bypass the knock sensor, IMO its a terrible idea to run advanced timing, so if you are going to do it, leave the timing alone. if you must advance it, keep the socket for the CAS in your car at all times to retard it if a problem arises.
typically its not the KS that is bad though, disconnect the subharness and you'll see what i'm talking about. the problem with that job is you might as well just replace the sensor while the lower intake is off..i am however stubborn and out of cash, so i just cleaned everything up and now i'm hoping for the best.

 

My plans were to run the resistor 'mod' forever (if I notice a positive difference). I will change out the knock sensor (if its bad, which is what the resistor will tell me), if I ever have the engine disassembled that far, but its not likely.

 

I ran 175.x hp and 185.x ftlbs torque. Super flat lines. I'll attempt to scan tomorrow. I don't have squat for mods really.
Intake/homemade Y, rice muffler, resistor mod and JWT ecu.
I'm trying to find my old dyno on my old burnt up motor.

 

is the ECU worth the $5xx+downtime?

 

Well that's up to you. I didn't have to pay $5xx and didn't experience any downtime. I definately felt a difference. Mostly in the low-midrange power. Not nearly as laggy.

 

hmmm....we'll see. i'm still contemplating the emanage. i'm quite a ways off from engine management anyway (except for maybe an SAFC).

 

I'd like to tinker around with an E-manage. Someday...

 

jeeeeez its a VE 5 speed thread. I likey

Good #'s guys. Hurry up with the scan Jeff!

 

the jwt ecu was my favorite power mod. you don't gain a lot on max hp; you gain a little hp throughout the entire rpm band. you will feel the difference. i liked it more than the y-pipe b/c you feel the gains everywhere, not just up top. imo, worth the $$$.

 

hmm....how much did you pay? Less than $500 shipped? I thought they were going for $560 plus shipping? If you have the hook up, please email me. I've been considering this mod for a LONG time now and I am financially equipped at the moment to purchase one.

 

I'm thinking the JWT is what made the lines so dang smooth, because I believe Dave had the resistor installed when he dynoed.

 

I bought it used Aaron. So no hookups etc.. Sorry.

 

 

Sadly, no. Jeff let me try out his resistor after I dyno'd. I was convinced.

 

My dyno is here.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...95197977GXehOF