I checked 3M's site but their connectors are still kinda big to fit in the ECU harness.

Thanks in advance.

 

I just spliced.. soildered and electric tape

 

To the ECU??? It's tight as hell in there.

I did do some soldering to fix the wrong wire I cut. That White and green wire has very little play. Maybe I should go to the tach gauge.

 

Remove the harness before working on it... it'll make it much easier... You can use the 22-18g "T" taps (will mate to male spade/speaker connector)... Best would be a solder and heatshrink job, though.

 

Ok, I'll do it the pro (you guys) way. I didn't know you could remive the whole harness. Are there any instuctions available for this?

 

yes i would say solder the wire also but i had a probem with my tach wire to ecu... the signal wasnt very strong... i tried a diode but it still didnt want to work it like the harlan switch would work but i lost all signal to the Tachometer so it would show 0 rpms whiole car was running.... so i just went to the #1 coil (i use harlan switch) now it works no problem...

 

remember to disconnect the battery first though..

i used a socket wrench to remove the middle bolt.. and pulled the harness off.. then i was able to splice it and work wth it easier..

while you are at it.. cut your limiter wire too

edit: you have no limiter.. i forgot

 

Shame on you man....haha!


I thought you guys meant to remove the harness from the car. I had been taking it off the ECU to work on iwht when I cut the wrong wire. Deezo Deezo

A lot of the instructions I read wasn't ever clear except for Scruit's in which he used the Summit. Since Neal says it doesn't work off the coil (which I find very weird, not that I don't believe him it's just my logic), I'm not going to bother with the Harlan. If someone wants to have it repaired, I'll sell it for half the price. Harlan just needs to replace one diod on the board and it will be good to go.

 

the S-AFC instructions tells you what wire to cut for the Tach Signal.. thats how i knew how to do mine

http://www.apexi-usa.com/documentation.asp

 

Hmmmmmmmm...........


Thanks.

 

Just use wire taps and lose the plastic cover and you'll have plenty of room.

I would pefer the sodder/heat shrink way though.

 

You must haven't seen where that white and green wire is. The only way I was able to find it was with the ECU pin layout that SR20 posted. That biotch was buried and when I found it, I tried to give it some slack but that sucker is in there snug.

 

don't pull the pin out..

just get a small knife or razor blade and peel away the plastic portion.. then just twine a new wire over it.. then soilder and cover up

 

Now, why didn't I think of that.

Thanks Sprint!

 

I got to it fine with a 3M tap.

I think Sprints' saying the same, but you can cut back the tape/sheath around the whole wire bundle a few inches and work from there vs. the connector mess.

 

I dont like or trust taps. I always been big on soldering everything. Guess im **** like that

 

Same here, however once you start going blind in contorshinist(sp?) positions with NO ROOM to work with....taps are GOLD.

 

on the taps

i have to wire up the VI from my 5sp parts car in place of my auto manifold so im just going to wire tap it into the appropriate blank spot on my auto harness..... and ill be using the 5sp ecu

check radio shack for small gauge wire taps and id splice the VI wire with another wire and plug it back in

 

Sprint and the fellas are saying they don't trust wiretaps. Soldering is the best method to ensure a good signal.