will paypal someone $4 to take pic of speed sensor and do mini write up...
will paypal someone $4 to take pic of speed sensor and do mini write up...
as said in title, i can't find any good pics or directions on how to check my speed sensor. my speedometer stopped working today and i really wanna fix it soon. i know it's not the speedo head. if you do it for free, that would be even better 
thanx for any help!
thanx for any help!
Originally Posted by bluemaxdriver4
anyway jeff i can ask an experienced nissan mechenic for you tomorrow (or monday depends) about it. because i am having him to check up my car soon for my 0103, 0304, and 0908 CEL for free
i'll get back to you. please allow me sometime.
Originally Posted by happyricefob
wtf you are a gay post *****
anyway jeff i can ask an experienced nissan mechenic for you tomorrow (or monday depends) about it. because i am having him to check up my car soon for my 0103, 0304, and 0908 CEL for free i'll get back to you. please allow me sometime.
anyway jeff i can ask an experienced nissan mechenic for you tomorrow (or monday depends) about it. because i am having him to check up my car soon for my 0103, 0304, and 0908 CEL for free
i'll get back to you. please allow me sometime.thanx for defending my mendon and happyricefob...i did try searching but couldn't find anything that good on it for a 4th gen.
everyone else
bluemaxdriver4 - because 4 is funnier and i'm a poor *** college kid who might have to buy a new sensor. hopefully it just disconnected as i've read in other posts when i searched!
Originally Posted by bluemaxdriver4
Ahhh! everyone is against me
me!!!
I know... I'm a
sorry, ill get off ur thread now. hope u find your answer
me!!!I know... I'm a
sorry, ill get off ur thread now. hope u find your answer
no problem man, thanx anyways and for the bump...no hard feelings
oh yeah btw, i ran for codes and got 0104 which is the vss, the infamous 0304, and an 0504, which i assume are all caused by the first code from the sensor either being disconnected or faulty. i called a local dealer who doesn't give the discount just because i wanted to see how much they charged, and they said $36 suprisingly. if i go in there though, who knows what they'd actually charge, they tend to give different $$'s over the phone.
:attention sorry for this on going thing but i just need to find out where it is. i went to a dealer today but the service guys were on lunch, d'oh!
anyone, anyone? bueller, bueller?
anyone, anyone? bueller, bueller?
friggen dealer...called them and the guy was telling me it would take them 2 hours to replace the sensor but they won't change it unless they diagnose it which would cost more $$ and so on. from what i've read on here, it took people 10-15 minutes to change. gah
sorry i keep talking to myself in this thread...you'd think i'd get the hint...
ok...so i understand the sensor is on the transaxle...but still don't get where...
is in
but where??
i know i'm a pain
is in
but where??
i know i'm a pain
Originally Posted by Jepht20
oh yeah btw, i ran for codes and got 0104 which is the vss, the infamous 0304, and an 0504, which i assume are all caused by the first code from the sensor either being disconnected or faulty. i called a local dealer who doesn't give the discount just because i wanted to see how much they charged, and they said $36 suprisingly. if i go in there though, who knows what they'd actually charge, they tend to give different $$'s over the phone.
Originally Posted by kevlo911
The KS may be checked with an ohmmeter.
1) Raise the hood. View the engine from the driver's fender. Look into
the deep valley between the cylinder banks and below the intake manifold.
Identify the KS as a black item fastened to the block by a single vertical
bolt. A wire harness wrapped in black leads toward you, out of the valley.
That is the KS sub-harness.
2) Follow the KS sub-harness to it's nearest connector. This is connector F121.
It is located near the upper right-hand corner of the valve cover of the forward cylinder bank, as viewed from the front of the car.
3) Disconnect F121. You have to do a "press the latch and wiggle and
pull" to disconnect it. F121 has only two pins; if you see more than two
pins, you have the wrong connector. Use a digital ohmmeter capable of
measuring more than 10 Megohms. You want to measure the pins of F121, not
the sockets of the matching connector. Measure the resistance between a
good ground (such as the battery negative terminal) and pin #2 of connector
F121. On my car this is the highest of the two pins, the one closest to
the front of the car. The factory spec is 500 - 620 Kohms.
The manual says you have to remove the intake manifold to replace the KS. However, I think that a person with good dexterity and a 10mm ratcheting box wrench could replace the KS without disturbing the manifold.
Important note: the dealer can do a more thorough test with his CONSULT electronic tester. The resistance test described here is a useful but limited test. A Knock Sensor which fails this test is definitely bad. However, a KS which passes this test is not guaranteed to be good.
1) Raise the hood. View the engine from the driver's fender. Look into
the deep valley between the cylinder banks and below the intake manifold.
Identify the KS as a black item fastened to the block by a single vertical
bolt. A wire harness wrapped in black leads toward you, out of the valley.
That is the KS sub-harness.
2) Follow the KS sub-harness to it's nearest connector. This is connector F121.
It is located near the upper right-hand corner of the valve cover of the forward cylinder bank, as viewed from the front of the car.
3) Disconnect F121. You have to do a "press the latch and wiggle and
pull" to disconnect it. F121 has only two pins; if you see more than two
pins, you have the wrong connector. Use a digital ohmmeter capable of
measuring more than 10 Megohms. You want to measure the pins of F121, not
the sockets of the matching connector. Measure the resistance between a
good ground (such as the battery negative terminal) and pin #2 of connector
F121. On my car this is the highest of the two pins, the one closest to
the front of the car. The factory spec is 500 - 620 Kohms.
The manual says you have to remove the intake manifold to replace the KS. However, I think that a person with good dexterity and a 10mm ratcheting box wrench could replace the KS without disturbing the manifold.
Important note: the dealer can do a more thorough test with his CONSULT electronic tester. The resistance test described here is a useful but limited test. A Knock Sensor which fails this test is definitely bad. However, a KS which passes this test is not guaranteed to be good.
Originally Posted by happyricefob
one recommendation: since you have 0304, why not just go ahead do a simple voltage check on your KS with a ohmmeter?
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507 will give you a better picture the location of KS. if the the KS voltage is in factory spec, at least you know 0304 is a ghost code
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507 will give you a better picture the location of KS. if the the KS voltage is in factory spec, at least you know 0304 is a ghost code
thanx man, i don't have an ohmmeter here but i can go home on the weekend and try it out. i should check my ks just because it seems like everyone's is bad. my car doesn't really feel sluggish but then again, maybe i'm just used to it?...so i'll have to do that while i'm at it. thanx again and for all the help you give me
well my sensor is coming in tomomorrow. i got it plus a 300zx fuel filter for $37 shipped. hopefully that'll do it, now i just need to find the damn thing! still not fixed mendon but hopefully soon.
ok....changed sensor today. time to go see if it works. i reset my ecu so hopefully i will be happy. side note, i couldn't get the damn hoses off the fuel filter but i know i cranked it enough to release pressure. i think it's just the fact that hoses suck and i have trouble taking them off. there isn't too much room in there as i'm sure most of you know so maybe i'll try it again tomorrow.
i had difficulty removing the sensor because it was supposed to just pop up. after a while of turning it and trying to wiggle it loose, i stuck a flat head screw driver in there and was finally successful. pray for me that this fixes the problem, otherwise i'm screwed and don't know what to do next. thanx to nickstam for selling your help
i had difficulty removing the sensor because it was supposed to just pop up. after a while of turning it and trying to wiggle it loose, i stuck a flat head screw driver in there and was finally successful. pray for me that this fixes the problem, otherwise i'm screwed and don't know what to do next. thanx to nickstam for selling your help
didn't work...speedo still doesn't move. played around with gauge cluster one last time, took out whole speedometer, took off needle, recalibrated back to marked point, put all back together. if this doesn't work, then i really give up. maybe i should just go to nissan and see if they can calibrate it or figure out why the **** it doesn't work.
sorry for this thread that is probably driving some people nuts.
sorry for this thread that is probably driving some people nuts.
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