daniel, i know that this topic has been discussed a million times but i went through about 4 pages on the search before thinkin bout askin. so here we go, 95 auto max 70K new batterey and factory starter. only change to the car in several weeks was installing a G force ECU yesterday. anyways, 3 times today the car would not start. key goes in, turn the key, hear a short whirring sound (fuel pump?), but nothing else. no clicks or vroom. sorry, read your post bout your pet peeves now, from the million posts i would say this is a starter problem. but the thing is, each time i put it into neutral and it started right away without any problems. does the fact that it starts in neutral still indicate starter? when it does start there is no smoke, hesitation or any other problems, the car runs perfect. gas additive was used 2 tanks ago. spark plugs are new.
also, while braking the rpms drop to 400-500 rpms and the engine starts to stumble a little. this only lasts for a few seconds but it feels like the car is going to die. once the car comes to a stop the rpm's come back up. now this happens when the car is warm or cold. again, the battery is new but the alternator is factory stock.
is it possible that the new ecu is causing this? i wouldn't think so but none of these problems started until the day after the install.

 

I know I'm not Daniel, but your starting problems might be that your lever is not activating the neutral swich when it's in park, so what I would recomend is that you push the lever all the way in, do this by pressing the button, pushing the lever, and starting the engine all at once, this happens alot to my car, and I don't think it's a starter problem because it wouldn't start in neutral either.

Your stumble might be that your tranny is not down shifting when it should, then forth your engine starts force it's self a little and then that's when you should get the stumble. Have you ever changed the transmision fluid? Maybe the Valve Body has some gunk and is stiking some of the valves.

Hope I'm some help.

Jose.

 

just a hunch but the symptom of braking and the engine loosing rpm's reminds me a a problem i had with a honda once. it is possible that your brake vacuum booster has a leak and is causing a loss of vacuum when the brake is applied. good luck.

 

Your battery is okay. Your starter is okay. The problem is most likely with the Park/Neutral Position switch. This switch is part of the safety mechanism which prevents the engine from cranking unless the transmission is in Park or Neutral. It is mounted on the outside of the transaxle case, on the side nearest the radiator.

Your PNP switch may require replacement or adjustment. This job can be done by the home mechanic. For instructions see Chilton (page 7-13) or Haynes (page 7B-7).

 

Here is some text copied from the factory service manual.
<font color="blue">
"Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) -- Auxiliary Air Control (AAC) Valve

This system automatically controls engine idle speed to a specified level.
Idle speed is controlled through fine adjustment of the amount of air which
by-passes the throttle valve via the IACV-AAC valve. The IACV-AAC valve
changes the opening of the air by-pass passage to control the amount of
auxiliary air. ... "
</font>
You may make a quick test of your IACV-AAC in the following way. With the
motor at normal operating temperature, and at idle, switch the A/C from
"off" to "maximum". Keep your eye on the tachometer as you do this. The
idle speed should dip momentarily and then recover. If it does this, the
IACV-AAC is working. If the idle drops and does not recover, the engine
may stumble, falter, and stall. The IACV-AAC may require cleaning,
adjustment, or replacement.

The correct idle speed is...
- 700 +/- 50 (automatic transmission, in Neutral)
- 625 +/- 50 (5-speed)

There are other engine parts which play a role in maintaining the right idle
speed, but the IACV-AAC is the first thing to look at. Good luck!

 

thanks alot for the help guys. hope i can get these things fixed.