I read the product reviews on the #26 yellow wax at Meguiars.com. People sure seem to love it. I currently use Gold Class but if the yellow wax is better I'll try that.
Are there any real differences between the two waxes? Smooth feel? Durability? Shine? Color depth?

 

I've only used #26 a few times, and have never tried Gold Class, but most say that #26 is significantly more durable.

As a single step product, Gold Class may end up looking better because it is a mild cleaner wax and seems almost to have some glazing aspect to it as well, which would explain the lower durability.

#26 on the other hand isn't meant to be used by itself because it is a non-cleaner wax, and if the average user were to simply apply it to unprepared paint, it probably won't look as impressive and may even have some difficulties. It would be the wax to choose if you're doing a more thorough detailing process though. That's why non-cleaner waxes are marketed towards pro detailers or enthusiasts, and things like Gold Class are more retail-oriented.

 

Gold Class wax is probably Meguiar's "darkest" wax. Meaning it will give your paint a slightly darker look. #26 adds a lot of depth to the paint and gives a wet look.
Gold Class has a little bit of cleaning ability, but is not a true paint cleaner in the common sense (this "cleaning" ability negates any "layering" properties, as subsequent applications will remove previous ones). #26 is pure waxes (actually a blend of polymers and carnauba). Some say carnaubas can be layered, but I believe after 2 or 3 coats, any additonal benefit can not be measured by the human eye (10 coats of a wax will look the same as 2 coats if all surface prep is done the same). Both are about average in durability.
Meg's #20 is a polymer sealant. It doesn't give quite the depth of #26, or the darkness of Gold Class. But it increases the reflective qualities (gloss) of the paint, and makes it look "wet". It is very durable, especially compared to the other 2.
In general, Gold Class wax is a consumer level wax. This doesn't make it bad (I still use it sometimes), just more "Bubba proof". Even Bubba can use it on a neglected finish and usually end up with something that looks better than when he started. #20 and #26 are both professional level products, and require a better prepped surface for the best end look.
In general, paint condition and color will dictate which product to use. Assuming good paint condition (polished with no contaminants/oxidation), a carnauba based wax will look outstanding on darker colors. It gives blacks, blues, reds, greens incredible depth and a wet look. Polymers are great on lighter colors, like my white or on silver, yellow, etc... It gives them increased reflectivity and a shimmering wet look. It is very hard to increase depth on light colors, but reflections can be made better.
Gold Class wax is kinda in the middle, and being Bubba proof, gives good results on any color.
With all that said, what many people do with dark colors is to use a polymer first for the durability/protection and increased reflections. Then after allowing the polymer to fully bond (about 24 hours), wash again and top the polymer with a carnauba for the increased depth. This would theoretically give the best of both worlds. But in all honesty, most people you'll meet on the street would not be able to tell if you took the extra step of using a carnauba topper. If you enter your car in shows, this topper could give you an edge to the discerning eye.
Some excellent detailing sites are www.autopia.org, www.detailcity.com, and www.showcargarage.com (owned/operated by Mike Phillips who works for Meguiars. So this one is the best place for Meguiars questions). All three have extremely knowledgeable, helpful professional detailers who are constantly looking for the elusive "ultimate shine".
Keep in mind that choice of wax is a subjective thing. Use what looks the best to you. And wax choice isn't the most important aspect to detailing. Surface prep, such as removing swirls, oxidation, and contaminants by using SMR's, cleaner/polishes, and clay is much more important than wax choice. A properly prepped surface waxed with Turtle Wax will look better than a poorly prepped surface waxed with a $50 professional level wax.
Sorry for the length, but hope this helps.

Dave

 

wow dave nicely explain
what another org memeber suggest i do was to do #7 and then follow it up with #26
since i have a silver car would number #20 be better for me?
i didnt get what you mean when u say polymer wax?
do you mean synthetic wax?

 

Polymer wax = polymer sealant = synthetic wax. At least to most people. This isn't really accurate, but it's close enough without getting too technical.

Dave pretty much covered it all, but to re-iterate:

The "look" of a product is highly subjective. In my opinion, and I am not alone with this, I think that your imagination will play a larger role than the actual appearance of a product. If any difference at all can be observed it usually extremely subtle.

Like Dave mentioned, you could use BOTH #20 and #26. Do your usual paint prep, apply #20, then apply #26 the next day. Use #26 paste, not liquid, when "topping" by the way because it has fewer solvents.

Personally I would decide what is higher priority for me. #7/#26 might look a tad better because of the #7 glaze. #20/#26 though, should be tougher or at least more redundant. You may even want to experiment with both ways, but just remember that silver isn't mirror-reflective the way dark colours like black are. You can make it very glossy and wet looking, but not reflective. HTH

 

Hey guy,I'm new to this detail/wax thing.First off is there any time frame like,you gotta wait for the first few months or so before your new car's paint to completely dry or cured?Is that true?I got an 03 Grey lustre for 8 months now.Thinking of given the car a good clean/wax.So as Dave said dark color would work better with #7+#26 correct?Or should I just use GC instead,and how offen does it last(the shine)?Thanx for your help guys.

 

i've been using the gold class for a year now. the shine is great and lasts a nice while. i haven't tried #26 though.

 

So you only used the GC,or do you used it with #7?And how offen do you do it,thanx!

 

i only use the GC. usual routine is wash car, dry car thoroughly, and wax with the GC. it does kinda make my color a bit darker but it looks nice. then for in between waxings, i just use the eagle 1 wax-as-u-dry stuff i have leftover. seems to work great for me. here's a pic i took awhile back

 

Thanx,your car look very nice.

 

If you want to learn about detailing, and the best products available, go to www.autopia.org and become a member. Everything you could ever want to know is there. Stop in the chat room periodically and you can get instant answers to your questions/problems.
I have been going there for 3 days now and Gold Class is completely out of the question now. I'm looking at Meg's #7, #20, and then #26.

 

thanks . i only wish that i was the orginal owner of the car. the previous owner(s) didn't really take good care of the paint