I finally had time to install my PFI kit that I got from Sprinty (Doug, hows about the $100 for the fuel pump?) The kit was a close fit, some hacking was required, but no major problems, nothing a fresh hacksaw blade and WD40 couldnt handle. Turbo is a 60-1 with .81AR, big for the 3.0L but I think it will be great for the 3.5L. Tial 38mm WG 5w/psi spring. I get 1psi at 2600rpm and 5psi at 3500. I have tried to up the boost using the E01, 7psi is fine but at 9psi I get bad misfires. I am using some old plugs at stock gap, Im sure that is the problem, I have new BKR6E's waiting to go in. I did blow 4 coil packs by leaving the ignition on for too long with the battery charger on start voltage boost. I have th3e J&S disconnected because I fear I may have damaged it too, FOK! I discovered that the coil packs from the 3.5L will work on the front 3 cylinders if you swap the long extension and plug hole cap seal. They will not work in the back because they are too wide. With the E01 I can monitor MAF voltage which will tell me how close I am getting to 100% duty cycle on the 516cc injectors. I think I should be good till 13-15psi. Then iust need to put it on they dyno and see how the afr actually looks and what power level she's cranking out. Hopefully JWT was not too conservitive on the timing and AFR...

 

 

hopefully you didnt mess up the J&S that would be an expensive mistake or maybe you could ship it back to them for a warrenty repair or somthing

 

Can't wait for pics and all the detailed information.

 

Sounds like your project is nearing completion, I'm very interested to see the results. Are you still running the stock internals then until you get all the kinks worked out?

 

Sorry, but I dont have time available to provide detalied information. A few pics, maybe.

 

Yes, still my original stock motor till I get the bugs worked out.

 

Thats cool man. So you have to use the 3.0 coilpacks in the rear?

 

with a 3.0L intake, yes

 

Any plans to determine the VQ30s breaking point?

Glad to hear you're back~!

 

Yeah, glad to see you're back 3.5L? That sounds nice

 

did you talk to ferhan about his comparison with fsm's for the vg30, vq30 and the vq35 crank?

he found some interesting measurements.

Its worth looking into

Steve

 

good deal matt :mzmtg:


How does it compare to the SC setup you had?

I know different PSI/HP. I was just curious

 

Good choice. I went with almost the same turbo: TO4E/60-1 HI-FI. Works well with the 3.5L!

 

cool, why the Hi Fi?

 

It has some *****! I can say till I crank the boost up past 10psi, but the initial surge is very cool, but the top dosent scream like aSC but its still fast and fun b/c of the 7200rpm limit.

 

hahaha... yeah the intial power is nice.


I am looking forward to the dyno numbers

 

 

Doesn't the Hi Fi flow slightly less than the standard 60-1?

Good luck on the new setup Matt. Can't wait to see some new numbers.

 

The Hi Fi does flow slightly less than the 60-1, which is also why I went with a stage 5. I went with the Hi Fi for a little quicker boost response. The full 60-1 is a great choice, i was debating on getting that one from the beginning.

 

Got the plugs in last night! .030" gap, she's running allot better! 9psi is no problem, feels FAST!, 7200rpms is scarey! Im waiting on the MAF voltage info from JWT before I go to much higher, 10 or 11 should be ok, I'll try that on the way home perhaps!

 

What head gasket did you use with arp headbolts?

 

Sounds awsome. Don't go to crazy.

 

World's fastest Maxima...

Sounds like a pretty sweet setup man...

 

Stock VQ35DE 350Z

 

The 350z one is thicker or thinner?

 

three layer MLS, Maxma VQ35 is two layer

 

You've got the fuel and you have J&S to warn you when you out flow the Z32 MAF...GO FOR IT~!

 

Are you interested in something else?

I've seen HKS makes a 350z headgasket, however I have no idea on the specs or cost.

I've looked on HKS.jp website, but no luck. I know it exists though, since I've seen pictures of it from the Tokyo Auto show IIRC.

 

Naaaa, stock with the ARP head studs should be just fine, thanks tho.

 

Thanks Man! Sorry for being a pest I am going to try to do the 3.5 swap in the summer but I can't afford internals so I am going to try to lower compression, the cheap way. One more question? Which connecting rods are stronger, the 3.5 liter or the 3.0 liter?

 

hey spanish, you might not even need to get the 3.5 motor, the crank of the 3.5 looks like it fits inside the block of the 3.0 (with the info that the fsm provides) if youre looking to go with a different stroke/bore, you might want to consider just swapping the crank and getting internals, no need to buy a new engine. this is just froma couple of conversations with what ferhan has been toying with. he already has his internals, but if you get the right rods, 1 mil on the crank and 1 mil on the rods are basically the onnly things needed to be machined to fit.

steve

 

You know Mardi if you would have dynoed that thing while you had it NA you would have been considered a saint to all of us thinking about doing this without FI.

 

do we discount a small piece of that to boost withdrawal?

good to hear your back mattsy..

 

Where am I am going to get a 3.5 crank without buying a whole motor? I saw a 3.5 liter motor on e-bay with the winning big of 450 dollars, can't beat that. I will be buying one in the summer. If I swapped the internals of the 3.5 what would the displacement be after the swap? Compression? Is that 1 mil radius or 1 mil diameter?

 

there will be plenty of aftermarket cranks out soon, considering its the z motor.

i think its one mil radius, but ill have to get back to you about it. does anyone have both fsm's in pdf format?

i dont know if stock internals will work. i dont know how reinforced the rods are (in order to machine it safely)

I would just like to see if anyone can start workin on this.

i wont have funds till the end of summer.

 

Aftermarket crank is usually made at billet aluminum and I know b series aftermarket cranks are about 900 so a VQ one will be at least 1400 dollars.

 

Good news! The J&S is working fine! It did not detect any detonation at 10.8psi up to 7200rpm.

Also got the MAF voltage input to the E01 hookeed up...
3.98v @ 4.6psi
4.28v @ 10.8psi
So I should have plenty of room for 13-14psi, I'm still waiting on the word from Ben about the maximum voltage for my 516cc program. I guestimate it to be ~4.68v, that should be good for ~500bhp!

I was looking over the E01 inputs and I was wondering if the pulsed input could be used to monitor injector duty cycle? The injector wire allways has voltage through it though and the ECU switches the ground, could this fry the E01 by having 12v hooke directly to the input chanel?

 

Wow that is good news. No detonation, don't want to mess up those pretty pistons.

 

Im still on stock pistons, the CP pistons from SGP are still in the box