Questions for some of the experts out there who may know what my numbers may be.
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Questions for some of the experts out there who may know what my numbers may be.
I have a 99 auto with the following mods:
VB
Racing straight pipe
Cattman Y- pipe
Greddy SP2 Cat-back
JWT intake
Anybody out there know what my numbers may be in...
1/4 mile?
0-60mph?
Horsepower?
-Thank you
VB
Racing straight pipe
Cattman Y- pipe
Greddy SP2 Cat-back
JWT intake
Anybody out there know what my numbers may be in...
1/4 mile?
0-60mph?
Horsepower?
-Thank you
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
around 15.0 in the quarter mile maybe a tick or two faster or slower, no idea on the 0-60, hp probably around 175 to the wheels. As low as 170 or as high as 180 possibly.
Thanks for that info. I'm not such an expert in this as I have yet to dyno and so on but now I have somewhat of an idea. Anyone else may agree or disagree with Nealoc187? By the way I'm thinking about getting an underpulley, should I or should I not? How much would this help me here?
Assuming if you're running stock times (15.8-16.2), then I would only expect mid 15s at a sea level track. VB mod, I didn't see anything more than a tenth in the 1/4 mile. Ypipe, I saw 3 tenths. Intake, was atleast a GOOD tenth.. maybe 2. Testpipe was a tenth for me too. And catback was another tenth for me.
So if you're running really up to par... then 15.0s can be possible. But I think you will see 15.0-15.5s if you're running with the power you should be.
Now I've seen several modded VQ autos only do low 16s at a sea level track. And they are scratching their heads.. why. B/c they probably weren't putting the power that they should be. Tune up, KS problems, etc.
So if you're running really up to par... then 15.0s can be possible. But I think you will see 15.0-15.5s if you're running with the power you should be.
Now I've seen several modded VQ autos only do low 16s at a sea level track. And they are scratching their heads.. why. B/c they probably weren't putting the power that they should be. Tune up, KS problems, etc.
Power wise, I'd estimate ~170fwhp and 175fwtq.
1/4 mile performance will be anywhere between a low 16 and a high 14
1/4 mile performance is dictated by five important factors:
1) Driver. You must understand how to get your car off the line effectively. Too much spin and you'll be slow. If you bog on the launch you'll be slow.
2) 60 foot. The 60' of a race is what really makes or breaks your elasped time. With an auto and your mods, if you're not getting 2.30 60 foots, you're not driving good enough.
3) Track and location. On naturally aspirated cars approximately 1200' in elevation will suck out ~.2 and 1.5mph. Also, some tracks are quicker and faster because of location or the timing equipment they're using.
4) Conditions. The difference between running with a scalding hot motor on a 80+ degree day with high humidity and a low baro pressure (29.90 or lower) vs running the same car on a crisp 50 degree day with low humidity and high pressure (30.20+) can mean a .5 second and 3mph difference. That's very significant. The VQ absolutely hates hot and humid weather.
5) State of tune. Make sure your car is in good tune before going to the track. That means no CELs. If you have performance affecting CELs then why waste the money if you know your performance is hurting?
Dave
1/4 mile performance will be anywhere between a low 16 and a high 14
1/4 mile performance is dictated by five important factors:1) Driver. You must understand how to get your car off the line effectively. Too much spin and you'll be slow. If you bog on the launch you'll be slow.
2) 60 foot. The 60' of a race is what really makes or breaks your elasped time. With an auto and your mods, if you're not getting 2.30 60 foots, you're not driving good enough.
3) Track and location. On naturally aspirated cars approximately 1200' in elevation will suck out ~.2 and 1.5mph. Also, some tracks are quicker and faster because of location or the timing equipment they're using.
4) Conditions. The difference between running with a scalding hot motor on a 80+ degree day with high humidity and a low baro pressure (29.90 or lower) vs running the same car on a crisp 50 degree day with low humidity and high pressure (30.20+) can mean a .5 second and 3mph difference. That's very significant. The VQ absolutely hates hot and humid weather.
5) State of tune. Make sure your car is in good tune before going to the track. That means no CELs. If you have performance affecting CELs then why waste the money if you know your performance is hurting?
Dave
I am pretty much running the same mods, plus a little, but I'd say 15.00's would be very reachable. Maybe as good as 14.7 if you drive well, and have the racing gods on your side. I have a G-Timer, and after yesterday at the track, I'm convinced it works real good. I have seen my N/A times in the range of 0-60 in 6.7 and 1/8 mile in 9.6 with 195 whp. I only ran with the NOS yesterday, so I don't have any full runs with N/A. I think my best N/A 60 ft was around 2.33, but I need some tires.
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