I'm replacing interior 6.5" speakers for doors and rear with the current HU JVC KD-S580 with 45wx4 output. I've spent some time researching what I want to do and here is where I'm at.

My questions:

1. Which kind of CDT speakers (CL-61A, CL-61T, CL-6X) should I use for the front and which kind for the rear.

2. Would a Soundstream EGA4220 amp work good with rating of

220X4 at 2ohm
110x4 at 4 ohm

3. thezeb.com has cl-6x's for 45 bucks for a pair. Would these be good for the front speakers?


Thanks for your help.

 

get the cl61a's for the front, and cl 6x for the back. combo is about $200 and well worth it. that amp is plenty for the fronts.

 

You put the more expensive speakers up front?

Should I get lower powered amp for this setup or is the amp a good match with these speakers?

Thanks for all the help.

 

you always put the more expensive (component setup) up front. the amp should be fine just watch your gains.

 

Slick - Thanks for your help. I'm trying to get the audio thing done right the first time and I heard good things price/quality wise about CDT speakers and Soundstream amps.

 

most people never do it right the 1st time (including me). but you will have a great setup there. now what about subs?

 

the cdt cl-61a are sold out, which means you have to get the titanium tweeter. these go in front. the cl-6x go in the rear. it was suggested to me to get a 2 channel amp, and run the rears off the head unit. something about cancellation, and the rears don't need much power. cheaper too.

 

I like my trunk space so much. With my 26" toolbox of tools and milk crate of auto stuff which I have been using alot lately for mods, I don't want a box to take up additional space.

Quick Q: I'm getting an Amp Kit from Ebay 4 gauge wires mostly, triple shielded inerconnect , 12 gauge speaker wire. Am I now done on purchasing stuff for this project or am I missing something?

 

ive got a nie small box with 2 10's that will sound great with that setup... how do i know this... i ran the exact setup you are getting minus the amp for components and it sounded great. you can even put 1 sub in ther wand have plenty of space, trust me. do you have all the stuff for the h/u? dash kit?

 

" do you have all the stuff for the h/u? dash kit?"

What stuff do I need for the h/u besides the interconnect cable to go between the amp and h/u? The amp kit came with that interconnect cable, speaker wire, grounding wire, power wire for amp, remote wire, gromets, and fuses. What else do I reall need for the project? Thanks for all your help slick.

 

np. do you have an antenna adapter for the aftermarket hu? if not best buy has em for like $12. walmart has em to im sure. wiring harness for the car? BB,CC prolly like $15. c when you say interconnect i think you mean rca cable which im sure the amp kit came with. if i can think of anything else ill let you know.

 

Oh I got you. Yeah I already have the H/U in the car (from old car, replaced the stock tape deck). I've just gotten sick of the stock speakers (rear pass. is blown) and decided it was time to upgrade sound quality since I'm in the process of upgrading everything else.

 

well ur doing it right thats for sure.

 

you definately have the right idea. i just finished my system basically the same way your gonna do it and it sounds awsome, alpine components in front, coaxials in rear,sub in trunk, 1 amp for front 1 amp for rear 1 amp for sub, all Alpine amps and speakers.

 

Hey Slick - Would I be able to run a single 10" or 12" sub in a small 1 cf box off of the EGA4220? If so, what value priced sub would you suggest to go with the current system I'm having shipped?

 

1.0cuft is not small realy. assuming you can get 2 channels for a sub which owould give you 200 watts rms id recommend either an alpine type r or phoenix gold titanium. each can be found for no more than $100 in either 10 or 12 on the net. you can get a pg 10" for about 85 shipped i think and a 10" type r i believe would be close to $100.

 

What do you guys think about these amps. They are both 129 at millionbuy.com

SOUNDSTREAM RUB300-2
RUBICON II 2CH 300W Amplifier

SOUNDSTREAM EGA2300
300W X 2CH EDGE

What power rating on a sub should choose if I were to buy one 10" or 12" sub for the amps above?

 

I just installed an EGA2300 paired to two 10" Type Rs. I'm very happy with it...no problems yet, and the combo sounds great. Amp doesn't get very hot.

I have it bridged mono at 600x1 into 4 ohms....if you do it this way, with a single 10" or 12" sub, you could get a really nice top of the line JL or something like that, and the sub would be able to handle it perfectly. If you just go with a single 10", be careful, because the 10" Type R that i have is only 300 W RMS.

I like it because all the connections are along one of the long sides of the amp. I have it under the front seat, and everything comes straight out and under the carpet under the "hump" at the front of the seat. Makes for an easy install.

 

i did not look up those amps but if you are running a sub a class d amp is better imo because it is more efficient (draws less current) than an a.b class amp. a jbl 300.1 would work well with an alpine 12 and a pg ti 10 or 12. its like $120 also which is a good price.

 

JBL 300.1 Output 4 Ohms: 150W x 1

would work with a

Phoenix Gold TX12 12 4 Ohm Subwoofer
350RM/700 peak

or a

Phoenix Gold Ti10D 10 Inch 4 Ohm Dual Voice Coil
300 RMS/600 peak

What would be the better pairing for a system where I want better SQ?

Also, my H/U has no Sub adjustment (just a +-bass adjustment). Would it still work ok with my H/U and could I turn my sub on and off for really cold Minneapolis days.


Sorry, just trying to get this project done. I'm going to get one of those sub boxes you recommended in another thread Slick but I need to know whether to go with 10" or 12" TI's with that amp first. Thanks again.

 

SOUNDSTREAM RUB300-2 RUBICON II 2CH 300W Amplifier
300RMS at 4ohm mono

Maybe this is the amp I want to power one 12 inch PHX TI bridged. It's only 130 at millionbuy.com too!

 

if you get a dvc pg ti you can run it in parallel it will be at 2 ohms which is 300 watts for the jbl 300.1 as long as the soundstream is a class d amp, that amp is fine too. and a 10" pg ti sub is 450 watts rms. a 12" is 500 watts rms. what kind of music do you listen to? the h/u will be fine but i higly recommend getting a sub control because it makes it easier to take the bass out of the speakers yet keep the subs bumpin.

 

Thanks Slick.

I'm still pretty clueless. I'm readding through http://mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/ to gain an understanding of car audio.

From what I gathered, I may of been better off getting a 5 channel amp to begin with but it's too late now with the soundstream on it's way. It should be a sweet amp for the price though anyways.

 

im not a fan of 5 channel amps. my friend has an alpine 5 channel it it cuts out alot due toovereheating if he plays it for hours. get 2 amps to do different jobs and you are set.

 

I'm looking forward to bumping a bit of Outkast and other hip-hop. That's the main reason for wanting the sub. I don't need earthshatering loud, just good sound quality.

Ok sounds like I'm still good to go.

Got the CL-6x's in the mail, the amp kit, the 4220 amp, cl-61a's are backordered but will come eventually from thezeb.com .

So from the car audio FAQ I learned that it is better to overpower a sub with the amp then underpower it. So maybe I should get a 10" TI with the JBL 300.1 then so I don't have to worry about distortion and potentially blowing the speaker? Should I get a speaker with lower rms with that JBL 300.1 or get something more powerful. The kicker with 350RMS at 2ohm is about the same price as the JBL.

I like the idea that I can do this sub/amp/box system for under 300 and it'll be simular quality and fit into the system well with the CDT stuff installed.

 

a pg ti 10 or 12 is fine with 300 watts. i run 2 of them with a 600.1 and it pounds imo. which kicker amp is that exactly? are you gonna put the sub in a sealed or ported box? and what size box?

 

I'm going to get the TI10D (105 new, shipped ebay) with these guys sealed boxes that you recommended in that other thread. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...&category=50568

JBL 300.1 is at ikes for 155 shipped

Not sure if I should get the 1.05 CF or the .66 CF box. I would rather have smaller. Would .66 CF sound good with the DVC TI10D"?

 

i think the jbl can be found for about $10 cheaper on other sites (pending on shipping charges) but i dont have time right now to look. according to pg's specs a .66 will be fine. i use the bigger box and thus its more boomy sounding which is good for rap, but doesnt hit as tight for rock stuff.