I have for a little while noticed that one torque member slider, which helps the caliper move evenly when the brake is applied has seized. I sprayed some liquid wrench on it and tried twisting it back and forth and it would get lose but it will NOT come out of its place.

When we were able to turn the pin freely (left to right) after some help from the liquid wrench we put the caliper back into place and tried to see if the braking system had more force then we could generate to try and move the pin in and out to no avail. Could someone help me?

Photo of what piece I mean, it is the top pin(photo not of my car):

 

I had the same problem, except mine was totally frozen in there, your best bet is to just buy a new bracket from autozone, they are relatively cheap, they come with new pins.

 

This is a common problem on all Toyota.It got frozed.What you can do is try to slide the pin boot out,and then try to spread alots of wd40 or some other simular product into the area and into the guide pin and hopefully it will loosen it,or you might want to use a 10 or 12mm to turn it(never work on this on the max before,but a few Toyota already,so I'm only guessing here),and if it's still not help...try vise grip...try fire to heat it up(you are going to need to buy the boot with this)...I had even try hammer and put a socket over the bold so I won't mess up the bold to break it loose,be patien...if it does break loose you might want to used some sand paper to smooth the guide pin out,and put some grease into both side(the guide pin and the into the hole) and Good luck.

 

i never had any problem with the torque member when i replaced my rotors and brake pads...

i say grab a hair dryer and try to heat it up and try to shake back and forth. shake the rotor too. i know it sounds ghetto but it mite work.

 

Shake the rotor?

I'd probably tap it with a brass hammer or something similar. You'll probably have better luck if you pull the torque member off the car.

 

if the pin has already partially frozen in there that means there is rust not only on the pin which would be easy to clean up but on the inside of the bracket. if you do get it apart, you may want to take a drill and clean up the hole a little bit.

 

I would use a vise grip to grip the pin then tap the vise grip with hammer while rotating to get the pin out. I would also use PB Blaster as I have heard this works better than WD 40. You can also heat up the bracket with a torch to see if that helps break it loose. Then once it is out buy a new pin and use a high temp grease.

 

Just take it right apart, it's amazingly easy.
then clean the parts with alcohol or gas (really good), then put lithium grease in the cylinder and on the shaft, then you are running perfect for at least two years.. (make sure you slide the rubber boot seal on tight after, (not hard, just don't forget))

it's the only way to go, you always want perfect breaks!!

dave h.

 

Ive tried the vise, but I didnt try tapping it out at the same time. Reason being why this is so important is because being that the "guide' does not move, the pads are wearing completely uneven and its frustrating to replace pads to prematurely.

Would eating up the torque member bring any adverse affects to the pin or not?

 

if you take the torch to it, just make sure you don't melt/burn the rubber boot

 

Well I don't think the guide pin would damage anything,what it is was the grease dry out and form very sticky.Well I haven't seen one that actually eaten up the torque member,So I don't think so.

 

wow i have the exact same problem. nothing can get mine out. pb blaster; blow torch, hammer. i need to buy a new one so what is the name of the part so that the idiots at autozone will know what i am talking about

 

heating*

 

ok guys, listen up:

take the torque member out (as Nissan calls it) , clamp the seized bolt in a bench vise, and turn the torque member around the bolt. It will give away.
If you dont have a vise, visit your local garage. They should not charge for this 2 second operation.
Good luck!

 

anyone know the name of the part so i can ask at autozone

 

caliper guide pin?

 

It's time for replacement...

 

hey,
just wondering how often they seize on people.
mine were shot when i bought the car, so i replaced them (the whole rear brake assy)
i take mine apart and clean and regrease every year, they aren't stuck when i do, but the lithium grease is getting sticky, i'm guessing they wouldn't last more than two-three years without some TLC..

what are your thoughts?

p.s. and yes, my rubber boots are in good shape, and the calipars are only two years old.

dave h.

 

after having to replace 2 of the brackets, I am getting in the habit of relubing them once a year. and the name of the part at autozone is "caliper bracket" its like $30 for the front and $25 for the rear. quit being cheap and trying to rip out the old pin and just buy a new bracket.

 

Is the lithium grease high temp grease? This might be causing some problems.

 

thanks, the autozone near me has to order them i just wanted to make sure it was the right part

 

yeah, every part I got from autozone except my axle I have had to order, which sucks

 

i just went and ordered it. only 19.87 +tax for the rear. will be here in 2 days. i hope its it and fits. will let u know