I've been dealing with this stalling issue for a few months now. Whenever I start my car in the morning after it has sat all night, if I do not let it warm up for a while it stalls on me. I go to work at 6:30am so it is a little cold outside. If I start my car later in the morning when it is warm outside it does not do this. Today as I was leaving work at 3pm, it almost stalled on me, first time it has done this. I had parked underground(I usually park at the top level outside) it was kind of cool down there. The RPM's went pretty low, but the ECU adjusted in time and it did not stall. So in the morning when it wants to stall, usually when I am coming to a stop, I throw it into neutral and then put it in drive. If I do not do this it stalls on me, it does this until I guess it warms up enough. When it starts to stall the RPM's go really low around 300 or so and then the ECU tries to bring it back up, sometimes it does, other times the car stalls. This can get kind of annoying. I work at a hospital and sometimes I have call shifts at night. I do not want to go through this if I get called to come in at 1am and have to get there in a hurry.

I have cleaned my IAVC, intake, and changed my fuel filter. I have checked the ECU for stored codes and the car does not have any. The car has 133k, I did the 60K service at 120K. The plugs are relatively new, NKG platinums. I changed the ECTS about month ago, but it is still stalling. I bought a multimeter after the car kept stalling with the new sensor. I tested the new ECTS and the resistance was pretty close to what the Nissan factory service manual states as acceptable ranges. With the engine at operating temperature (194*F) the resistance of the new ECTS is at .22 Kohms(I think it was at operating temp as I tested it when I got home from work, and the gauge in the dash showed the temp needle in the middle), it is supposed to be at .236 - .260. I tested the cold resistance one morning and it was at 2.98 Kohms, the acceptable ranges are 2.1 - 2.9 Kohms. Do the slight diviation in readings from the Nissan FSM, point to the new ECTS being bad? I cannot measure the coolant temp to make sure that it was not above 194*F, and thus giving me a lower reading than was acceptable. Maybe tomorrow morning I can stick a thermometer in the radiator to see how cold the coolant temp is and check it against the FSM reference data to see if it is within spec on the cold side. I also checked the voltage from the harnes and it checked out, it was almost 5v, and the negative wire on the harnes has continuity.

I am stumped, if I cannot figure this out or get some help from you guys here I wil have to take it to the dealer$hip . I would appreciate any assistance rendered by you guys. Hopefully someone here has some experience with this. I have searched for several days read many threads on this (ECTS, stalling) but have not seen anything that I have not already done. Sorry for this being so long but I am trying to give as best a description as I can.

 

Stalling is a hard issue to deal with. Here are soem things to check that are in a total differnet dirrection.

1. TPS (throttle position snesor)
2. Fuel hose in engine bay, if it is bent some place its can be restricting fuel flow, when the engine along with the hose heat up, the hose will expand more and allow fuel to pass thorugh.
3. IACV Idle air control valve
4. Vaccum hoses (same theory with the fuel hose)
5. butterfly plate, see if something is severly restricitng flow.

 

I checked the butterfly plate when I cleaned the intake, IACV was cleaned as well (2x). Just checked the fuel hose and it does not have any crimps on it. The vaccum hoses look fine, but I will double check those as there are several. I will see if I can check the TPS later this weekend. Anyone else have any other suggestions.

 

This should have dawned on me sooner. Your O2 sensor may be not working properly, or not heating up properly. This happened to me when my o2 broke. the car would stall unless i feathered the throttle

 

I had read some threads regarding other members car's stalling due to bad 02 sensors. I thought that because I had no O2 sensor codes, or any codes for that matter, that they were not at fault. I will get under the car and take a look at the O2 sensors. The O2 sensors on the car are the original ones. I want to replace them since I have 133,300 miles on the car, and would like to get better mpg than 18-19 gallons in the city. Thanks for the suggestions waveridr85.