i hate the location of the KS
some people have, but it is not recomended because the engine was designed and tuned with it in that specific location for a reason. i wouldn't mess with it because once you replace it, you shouldn't have to change it again anytime soon.
yeah i know what u mean anyone know the exact tools or combination and like step by step cause i even my gfs hands are to big and shes like 5ft nothing 88lbs soaking wet mingia i cant figure it out and way to move all them hoses and shizz in the way?
i have nismo14's KS relocation #1.

gas mileage went up significantly from this location. definetly no lag throughout entire rpm at all gears. i know i lost a good 20WHP with malfunctional KS. but i haven't dyno it yet with the new KS at relocation #1, so i can't say anything about the performance.
either way my main priority is to get my gas mileage back. i get a good 22-23mi/gl from 50/50 hwy and local driving with medium foot. and i get a good 26.5mi/gl from 90% hwy driving. these observations are from the last 20 tanks. i keep track of my gas mileage everytime i visit the gas station.
FYI: nissan suggests 21mpg for local, 27mpg for hwy.
therefore i'm within the spec, therefore nismo14's KS relocation #1 works.

gas mileage went up significantly from this location. definetly no lag throughout entire rpm at all gears. i know i lost a good 20WHP with malfunctional KS. but i haven't dyno it yet with the new KS at relocation #1, so i can't say anything about the performance.
either way my main priority is to get my gas mileage back. i get a good 22-23mi/gl from 50/50 hwy and local driving with medium foot. and i get a good 26.5mi/gl from 90% hwy driving. these observations are from the last 20 tanks. i keep track of my gas mileage everytime i visit the gas station.
FYI: nissan suggests 21mpg for local, 27mpg for hwy.
therefore i'm within the spec, therefore nismo14's KS relocation #1 works.
it might work but that doesnt necessarily mean its not robbing a little horsepower. i am a firm believer that the ks is in the right position, but for the issues i had with it (not being able to get it out) the relocations was a good TEMPORARY step
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/391233/2 go there for pics of it and a semi write up
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/391233/2 go there for pics of it and a semi write up
Originally Posted by nismos14
it might work but that doesnt necessarily mean its not robbing a little horsepower. i am a firm believer that the ks is in the right position, but for the issues i had with it (not being able to get it out) the relocations was a good TEMPORARY step
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/391233/2 go there for pics of it and a semi write up
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/391233/2 go there for pics of it and a semi write up

Dont move it.
The guy that posted used gas mileage to prove that the knock sensor new location (on top of the intake) is fine.
THIS IS A BAD IDEA.
I have the factory manual and what the knock sensor does is protect you from low grade gas. When it works and is quiet the engine runs off 91 octane timing. If it is broken the car goes to 86 octane mode (which is much less efficient when the car is designed for 91). If you move the location and it is not as sensitive, which is likely, and you fill up with 87 (some idiot puts the hose in the wrong tank) you engine will have serious damage and the knock sensor will not protect you.
I took a graduate level class on engine design and there specific vibration modes for any engine. The knock sensor is mounted at one of the anti-nodes and will be much less sensitive if you put it somewhere else. If you run 91 there should not be a problem. If you dont, bad news.
As far as the location to replace it. I removed the intake system as described for TB cleaning on motervate.ca. I took a 12" exstension a la skippy.net and then i used a little piece of scotch tape to hold the nut in place when putting it back in. The removal of the induction from the top of the airbox to the TB lets you get in almost parrallel to the engine and makes it easy.
I replaced it in 30 minutes (use a torque wrench to get the 15-20 ft-lb.)
Good luck,
Mark
THIS IS A BAD IDEA.
I have the factory manual and what the knock sensor does is protect you from low grade gas. When it works and is quiet the engine runs off 91 octane timing. If it is broken the car goes to 86 octane mode (which is much less efficient when the car is designed for 91). If you move the location and it is not as sensitive, which is likely, and you fill up with 87 (some idiot puts the hose in the wrong tank) you engine will have serious damage and the knock sensor will not protect you.
I took a graduate level class on engine design and there specific vibration modes for any engine. The knock sensor is mounted at one of the anti-nodes and will be much less sensitive if you put it somewhere else. If you run 91 there should not be a problem. If you dont, bad news.
As far as the location to replace it. I removed the intake system as described for TB cleaning on motervate.ca. I took a 12" exstension a la skippy.net and then i used a little piece of scotch tape to hold the nut in place when putting it back in. The removal of the induction from the top of the airbox to the TB lets you get in almost parrallel to the engine and makes it easy.
I replaced it in 30 minutes (use a torque wrench to get the 15-20 ft-lb.)
Good luck,
Mark
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