I recently had my dash apart a bit to get to my stereo. Ever since then, my 93GXE sometimes doesn't start up unless I either jiggle the AT shifter a bit...or shift out of park, and back into park.

I took it back apart and checked all the plugs under there...everything seems find. Anyone ever seen this before? It's causing my remote-start to not work since I have to be in the car to do the magic jiggle.

Thanks,
Matt

 

Most likely the tranny selector bush has collapsed - it's a common occurence esp seeing as it's plastic. You'll need to remove the heat shield around your cat converter to get to the selector - 6 small bolts. Takes around 15 - 20 mins to change but worth it!

 

Next time your car doesn't start... instead of jiggling the shifter, push the shifter towards the front of the car. If that fixes it, then you will need to first, fix the shifter linkage bushing... then, align your linkage. It's all done underneath the car.

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Taken from Bryan's page in the FAQs section:

http://members.csinet.net/tisch/maxima/
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How do I change my automatic transmission bushing? (Posted by Aaron Kimball)

Repair of the shifter linkage bushing. Aaron Kimball provided the great below write-up of the bushing change. Often times the transmission will not engage in gear, despite being put in the "D" position and one will have to tap it back slightly to have it engage. This cheap new bushing will fix the issue. The repair will tighten the shift selector and linkage. Cost of the bushing at a Nissan dealer is $1.50.

Part #: 34552-D4000 Tools: Jack, jack stands or just ramps, 10mm socket, phillips screwdriver, and needle nose pliers

Make sure your exhaust is cool because your hand will be bumping it during the repair. I just put a fan pointed straight at it and the exhaust was plenty cool enough after 10 minutes. Jack your car up or drive it up on some ramps so you can easily get to the catalytic converter part of underneath your car. Get your Phillips screwdriver, a 10mm socket, and remove the heat shield directly above the catalytic converter. There are 5 10mm/Phillips bolts. You might need a universal joint socket to reach a tight place. Now, try to slide the shield towards the rear of the vehicle so that it will expose the 90 degree joint at the bottom of the linkage. If the shield is still in the way, go ahead and remove the bolts on the heat shield directly above the cat-back resonator. Once this is loosened and/or out of the way, then you will be able to get the catalytic converter heat shield out of the way.

Now, get some needle nose pliers and remove the cotter pin that is holding the linkage arm and washers in place. Once removed, note the way the washers go. For me, there was no bushing up there because it rotted off. But if there is, remove the old bushing and clean the area a bit so the new bushing will easily slide in place. I squirted a little brake cleaner up there and wiped it.

Now, put the new bushing in place and put the thin washer on first and then the thick washer next. Then, put the cotter pin back in the hole. This might be a little struggle, but you'll get it.

Now that your done, go through the gears without turning on the engine. Make sure everything is good. Bolt the heat shields back up and you're done.

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The only inconvenice I have with the bushing is having to tap it to engage in drive, nothing else. I'm sure I'll get around to replacing it one day.

 

Thanks for the great replies. Thats the news I like to hear. I will see if pushing it forward does the trick, pick up the part from the dealer and get under there and fix it.

Matt

 

Yeap, make sure you check your alignment of your linkage too. It will be just like adjusting your throttle linkage cable. There will be two nuts.... or 4. I forget. Anyway, make sure you adjust it so that D is D... instead of D being N or halfway inbetween.

 

Thanks for the great info everyone. I was able to get the new linkage installed in just a few minutes. There were only peices of the old one left...the rest has rotted.

Sure feels nice to have it fixed though. My remote start is working again.
I got the part at the dealership, and walked through the showroom on the way to parts. Stopped and sat in one of the new maximas. Sheesh. Pretty car.

Matt

 

I am having the same problem with my 93 GXE. Glad to know its not something major. Can I just live with it for sometime, or is it something that will cause major problems later...and should be replaced immediately?

Thanks.

 

New AT issue.

I have to put my shifter into 2nd gear to activate my drive mode then put it into D. Does this sound like a shifter bushing. When it is in D it is in N and when it's in N it's in N. Every other gear activates correctly but D.

 

sounds like the bushing.

 

Sounds like a bushing and/or shift linkage alignment. Make sure you check both and that will solve your issue almost everytime.

 

Def the bush. I had same problem - the old bush had disintegrated.
Unless the lock nuts come loose on the selector linkage, or you've disconnected it sometime, it won't need adjusting.

 

The reason I say linkage alignment is just b/c when I first bought my car, in order to shift into R, I had to go into N first and then back into R. And in order to go into D, I had to go to 2nd gear first and then back to drive.

And my problem was both linkage alignment and bushing. So who knows who has messed with the linkage alignment nuts before I got my car. But it's something to check.

 

I just had a tranny replacement. So it wasn't me.

 

Can is happen on a 95 max? I have to sometomes tap forward when in park for the starter yo crank the engine

 

Holy thread bump.

Try replacing your neutral safety switch.

 

This is an old thread! Haha

Yes, it can happen on a 95 Maxima. The engine should not crank if it thinks it's in Reverse. So by pushing your shifter forward, it allows it to think it's in Park where it will crank up.

Just check to make sure that the linkage is aligned. I bet the bushing is really old too.

 

Is that switch located inside the car under the console?
I get various threads about it but mostly they talk about the manual shifters.

I saw the brake pedal mounted actuator trigger the release of the shifter so thats working.

I didnt take the whole console out because i didnt realize the ash tray had a couple bolts holding it in(one for mine because the other is broke).

 

Is this the neutral switch not communicating this othingsworn bushing offsetting things?

Im still not fully up on how each switch in the car communicates and to what.

 

I'm pretty sure it's on the tranny.

EDIT: Yup.

 

It's not the neutral switch causing the problem, it's the shifter bushing....

 

yep it would be the shifter bushing, i had the same problem. wouldnt engage park and the shifter was sloppy. new bushing fixed it

ive had 3rd gens come into work with the same problem and a new bushing has always fixed it, last time i ordered one from Nissan it was $3. just remove a heat shield and its right there

 

I figured back when I first read the title that this was the answer before entering the thread. Open/shut case. Everybody go home!