I replaced my Clutch slave cylinder on my 98 GXE. I replaced it because I was loosing fluid in my resivior. I put on a new slave cylinder and I am still loosing fluid. WHat could the problem be? Thanks.

- Carson

 

mine was the hose connected to the slave cylinder... where the rubber hose meets the metal part.

 

What did you do to fix it because the hose you are talking about is always wet on my car.

 

just replaced the hose. I think it's like $40 from nissan. The part number is 30651+A (still have the diagram that nissan faxed me).
I had to move some stuff out of the way to get at it and the one bolt that goes into the slave was an absolute b*tch to get out (no room to turn).

So, there's the one hydraulic-line bolt that goes into the slave, on that connects to another hose via a little square box, and two bolts that mount it to the car.

 

yea gotta be a hose in some place or another

 

When I fixed mine, I replaced the slave and the hose, so on replacing the hose

 

yeah definatly the hose. i just took the slave out when replacing the hose. make sure u have new copper washers for it. the two bolts for the square part are kinda hard too.

 

thanks guys...I will check out the hose when I get a free sec

 

Yeah my hose just died. I ordered a new one but I hope they come with the hose. If not then I may have the car down for another few days.

 

can anyone comment on how hard it is to change the hose? Any detail would be great.

 

the hose is 2 screws, I missed the bbq this weekend because of no clutch pressure. during bleeding of the system, I noticed i was getting air. changed the hose and no more air ,but I still have no pedal so i will have to check the slave and master cylinder

 

Corey, you know there are two locations for bleeding the clutch right? I only mention that because I've run into other people bleeding their clutches that weren't aware of that. One is on the operating cylinder itself and the other is located on the strut tower right above where the air filter normally sits.

Cardana, the hose is very easy to replace. FYI the FSM states that the banjo bolt should be tightened to 21-25 ft lbs. Make sure you use new copper washers - they should come w/ the hose if I remember correctly.

 

Thanks for the info steve...I have never blead the valve up by the drive side strut tower. I have always blead the one by the slave cyl. I have never had any problems with getting pressure. But I will go ahead and replace the hose hopefully this weekend and I will keep ever one posted as to how it goes. And as far as the tq on the banjo bolt...I have no clue how many pounds I am putting on it...ever how hard I can turn it with a open-ended wrench is how tight it is.

 

Does it matter what position the banjo bolt is in when it torqued? When I tightened it, the perpendicular hole did not match up exactly with the hose; off by probably a milimeter. Is there a channel around the inside of the metal "O" so the fluid can pass around the bolt (is this making sense?)?
Also, my hose from Nissan did NOT come with new washers. I had to use the old ones.
Seems to work just fine. But I'm concerned that maybe since the bolt is not perfectly lined up, the opening may be compromised and I'm building too much pressure in the hose and it might blow again.