201.9whp@6239rpm
192.4wtq@4677rpm

was my best run (well actually, that was my 2nd and 3rd run....they were almost identical, the 1st run was a tiny bit lower as the oil was still cold and whatnot)...

my mods are in my signature....

can't imagine what I would dyno with headers, cams, and flywheel on top of this and with a fresh engine, and tranny! (mine are both the originals almost 133K miles now)!

now I am off to compression test her, replace the coil packs, and try some BG44K to see if there is any difference! then it's boost time

even with new O2 sensors, my car took a while to go to a closed loop mode...when looking @ my AFR graph, it went way lean for a while, then finally around midrange settled to kinda rich at around 12.6:1 @ my tq peak then from 5000 to the 6600rpm, the afr slowly raised to lean out to about 13.7:1

 

nice #s, what type of dyno was it a dynojet?
your #'s are excellent

 

dynapack....chassis dyno

original injectors and coil packs...

 

you should post the graph if available for comparison. any pics of your car

 

I will try and post the graphs 2night (I have to scan them first)...

 

 

nice runs hp looks excellent

 

do my #'s look right for my mods in my sig and a dynapack?

 

Those graphs are terrible. So hard to follow. Nice #'s.

 

why is there such a dip when the mevi switches over? is there anything I could do to smooth that out? I have it set to 5200 I think...

 

Cheater. The one on the right is 4th gear no? The left is much more acurate seeing as 4th is the only 1:1 gear. Seems about right for the dynapack. Do it on a real dyno in 3rd and you won't be as pleased.

 

you are supposed to do it in 4th gear....actually, my #'s would be higher if done in 3rd gear...albeit, less accurate....so a dynapack is not a real dyno? hmm...I thought it was fishy that the side of the dynapack said "fisher price" on it...besides, i have very light wheels, so a dynojet would not be that much lower at all...

left and right??? did you read the graphs? the top is tq and hp and the bottom is tq and a/f graph....

all done in 4th gear...

 

Every magazine or article that I've seen has said that real WHP/WTQ #'s are best when gathered or collected from gears that are not near 1:1. In our cars 4th is such that it eliminates two sets of teeth/gear rings and therefore friction is greatly reduced. Dyno'ing in 3rd will result in lower but more realistic #'s. When are you in 4th while racing? Very rarely. Four out of the five gears have two more areas for friction to occur than the one you dyno'ed in. 3rd is the most popular and best gear to dyno in. Dynapack is a real dyno but its not the same as all the others. Granted non are exactly the same. The pack setup eliminates nearly 80Ibs of ratational mass and all the friction that goes with tires needed to lay the power down. I didn't pay much attention to any of the graphs cause, as mentioned, they are hard to read. All that really matters is that you use the same dyno for comparison w/ stock vs. modded. So, if you consistantly use that dynapack, great.

I hate this whole section. Dyno'ing on different brands of dyno's is stupid. Only if you dyno one car vs. another on the same dyno on the same day is it worth anything. A nice article was in a mag recently about that. Cliff notes: Everyone has different sized horses.

 

so my #'s are BS? should I consider the money I paid for they dyno a waste?

 

No, I explained everything in my post. I'm saying more that all dyno #'s are BS.

 

Those seem like nice #s. Did you figure out your previous mechanical problems?

Reason. If you are running the same as before when you could barely pull on a nearly stock VE 5-sp, then something is not right. Either:

1) The VE was spraying nos and didn't tell you
2) Your numbers are not in the correct relation to what everyone else is posting for their dyno numbers. Apples vs Oranges type of comparision (as Broaner said)

If you fixed whatever was wrong and the car pulls SIGNIFICANTLY better, then contrats. If it's the same as before, something is not right. Common sense type of thing.

 

well....I took my S/C kit out of my trunk as well as some other things (about 150lbs total), and bumped up my mevi switchover which should have made a good difference...I had just replaced my knock sensor b4 the meet, so maybe it didn't register yet, even though I reset the ecu!!! like I said in the past, that race was really too short....we only went from 4K to redline in 3rd gear only...by then I only had like 1-2 cars...I have yet to replace my flywheel and coil packs which definitely need to be replaced....I have not compression tested yet....been meaning to get around to that....the funny thing was, my car felt a lot stronger the day of the dyno on the way there and after then usual as if it was trying to get better #'s for me....lol....I am sure it's just mental though....I guess it's time to compression test and see if something internal is wrong....

 

Actually, a day at the track would be the most telling. It's not perfect but it's as close as one can get to comparing real world numbers with other maximas here. If you can find a track out in LA it would be nice. At least it's not 95 deg right now

 

that's what I am worried about....elevation, tire pressures, lauch, temperature, humidity, even wind can change 1/4 mile times completely, so it would be hard to compare....

 

Um that's quite a bit better than using a different dyno than everyone else. I mean someone was using a 27% drivetrain loss!! Talk about nutso.

 

the true test would be to get the 3rd gen to go with me to the same dyno on the same day...to see if my #'s are flaky....problem being is, he would never pay more than $20 for a dyno knowing him....lol

 

Hearing you describe that race now, from 4000 to redline in 3rd gear, is only like a 7 second race. 1-2 cars in 7 seconds is a pretty strong pull. I hadn't realized the race we were talking about was so short.

Dyno numbers are fun but what you run at the track is what determines how fast your car is or isn't not good dyno #s. Also you need to raise your MEVI switchover to about 5400 or so, that's why there's a dip there.

 

what did you dyno @? both at church and at R&D???

 

so I went to TS 2day and gave them my ecu to increase the rev limiter....

in the mean time, I put in a stock ecu I had laying around....car feels the same which worries me....prolly just mental, but my car feels exactly the same as with the TS ecu...in addition, the idle is slightly lower which I like and on really cold starts, my engine only revs to like 1200 instead of like 1500 rpms until it warms up...kinda like this ecu better and it pulls the same (or so it feels as my TS ecu....haven't taken it apart to see if it's modded...but the guy I bought it from swears it's a stock ecu)....I get back my TS ecu 2morrow...so I'll let you guys know how it feels with the extended rev limiter and hopefully it will feel faster than the stock ecu I have in there right now...

the low end actually feels slightly better with this stock ecu in fact and the throttle reponse is slightly better....top end feels the same...kinda worrying me as I paid all that money for a TS ecu!!!

so 5400 rpms is ideal for the switchover?....I have it set for 5200 I think right now....but it seems to switchoever differently in with the stick in neutral vs. when I am in the road and in gear (different rpms that is...) maybe I just need to pay closer attention....the switchover happens to fast to see...I'll play with it this weekend...

 

so I raised my mevi to 54 or 55 hundred rpms can't remember which, I also found out some interesting info...when I sent in my ecu to have the rev limiter raised to 7200 rpms from TS, they found that they screwed up in the first place, there was no program put on there (I had a couple mods done at the same time back in the day when I had it modded originally, so I attributed the extra power from the y pipe I put on to the y pipe and ecu)...so this dyno was basically without their ecu...

 

Which serves to further invalidate those numbers...

 

Told ya so.

 

told ya so what??? so my #'s are a little high....b/c of the type of dyno it is....but now I know that my #'s are more like 195whp after the ecu rather than 185...which is what I was worried about....thought my #'s were kinda low for a dynapack dyno....

 

Does anyone else find this disturbing? The only way to upgrade the 4th gen ECUs is to solder in a new chip. It's not like they flash it. I wonder if others have been screwed over too?

 

so they can't raise my rev limiter....they have to work on it....the ecu used was a '96 maxima ecu to first find the rev limiter in the code/programming, I have a '95 ecu, so they apparently, the rev limit code is somewhere else which they haven't found yet...so I left them with my ecu today and hopefully they will get it working shortly...so I can re-dyno eventually...

 

Well this is all very interesting. I received my TS ecu a couple of days ago.

I logged several 3rd gear pulls of ignition timing vs rpm on my Auterra with both a spare stock 96 ecu and a TS modified 96 ecu. I did three runs with each ecu to get an idea of the scatter in the data. There was no discernable difference in the numbers. Mind you these pulls were only up to about 6000 rpm.
FWIW the butt dyno does not register any difference between the 2 ecus.

I haven't checked out the (hopefully) raised rev limiter yet.

I'll set myself up a car domain page so I can post the graphs in the 4th gen forum. (For those who are interested.)

 

yeah...same thing with me...used the auterra on my pda and the IG timing vs. rpm graph is showing the same #'s as the stock ecu I have...plus the in the butt dyno, I feel no difference either...

eng92, the rev limiter should work for you as the '96's are working apparently, but also, view the "absolute throttle position" with your auterra and tell me what percent it reaches when you put your foot to the floor in any gear...mine only reaches 91 or 92% I think...can't remember...I read somewhere that only @ 93% and above does the car switch to the WOT maps which are the only ones changed by TS...so maybe my throttle position is not reaching high enough to trigger the WOT maps on the TS ecu...dunno...I will play with recalibrating my TPS this weekend plot some things with my auterra on here...the O2's do however swap from open to closed loop however when I put my foot the floor...which leaves me wonder...that should mean the car does know it's in WOT condition I would think...however, the timing vs. rpm graph is still the same with my stock ecu and TS modded one....I think it peaks @ +25 degrees advanced at 6300 or something...and when I first punch it @ 3K rpm's it drops to 15 degrees on both ecu's and keeps ramping up to 25 from there...so IG timing is identical on both ecu's it looks...I'm gonna talk to Brian and Tadashi over there next week and see what is going on...the true test would be to dyno back to back with each ecu...

 

Well I asked for a 7500 rpm rev limiter and that is what is handwritten on the TS sticker on the ecu. Tried WOT runs in 2nd and 3rd gear and the max rpm I can get is 6500-6600 (measured on the Auterra - dash tach showed about 6800) . It is not a "hard" rev limiter like the stock fuel cut. It just hits the rev limiter and stays there. +/- 100 rpm. In any event it is 900-1000 rpm below what I asked for.

The auterra shows my absolute throttle position to be 91.8 - 92.2%. FSM says ~4V or 4kOhms for WOT. I will check that out as well.

I get the same ramp up from 3-5.5K. From 5.5-6.3K, advance is 26deg. From 6.3-6.5K it varies from 27-29deg.

I am booked in for an hour to do just that on Dec 29.

 

I get 94% at WOT. I've always heard that above ~90% makes it revert to set maps.

 

the rpm the auterra shows is the real one I think...the tach is not perfectly accurate as it's analog...so you get the same timing with the TS as the stock ecu also?

this was all done in a 3rd gear pull from 3Krpms to redline? my tach does the same thing with the TS ecu....winds you to about 6700 or so and it's a smooth cut off...doesn't bounce, just stays there...I did check the resistance of my TPS...and it is slightly off, but not much (I will calibrate this weekend to spec)...I did my timing graph in 2nd gear...so I won't be as accurate...I will do it in 3rd soon hopefully so I can post it up on here for comparison...although I am sure it's the same as yours...just like stock...although I don't know what the timing map of the TS ecu is supposed to be....I wonder how many degrees it is supposed to add at peak...!?!?!?

like I said, I feel no difference on the butt dyno...but the #'s on the auterra back it up that there is no difference...TS did verify that the alternate IG and A/F maps are in fact on the ecu...or so they say...which leads me to think that the WOT maps are not being activated for whatever reason...

this sux as I paid for this ecu and all this time thought it was doing something for me performance wise....then I got something to check my timing, only to find out that my butt dyno has been confirming what I believed all along...plus I want my 7200 rev limiter....

so it looks like I am not the only maxima in which the rev limit was supposedly changed and it has actually not! they thought it was b/c I had a '95 ecu...rather than a 96, but it looks like yours isn't raised either...

eng92...please do me a favor and call TS and talk to Brian....cause right now, they are looking at me like I'm crazy....if they found out someone is having the exact same problems (ie. not a raised limiter and stock timing), then maybe they will take me more seriously!

 

according to SteVTEC in his article regarding knock sensor operation, it is 93% where the WOT maps initiate...

I'm not reaching that...yet the auterra shows my O2's swap from open to closed loop...

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=233739

any other JWT or TS owners out there with auterra or other OBD graphing/scanning utilities....if you could chime in with your IG timing readings please do....so we can compare them with stock and see if our TS ecu's are doing anything...

yeah, eng92, just checked I get 26 degrees advanced on both ecu's at 6.3K....it didn't graph any timing points after that, as the graph was done in 2nd....I'll try it in 3rd to get more timing points...as it takes longer to wind out 3rd....

 

I checked my TPS calibration last night and it is bang on factory spec as far as closed and wide open resistance goes. Just for the hell of it, I cranked the sensor around to give me 95% at WOT, unfortunately this also correponds to the TPS showing 5% open when the throttle is fully closed -> 2000 rpm no load idle.

I did a couple of 3rd gear WOT pulls with it set like this. Now, I see a 2-3 deg increase in ignition advance over stock. I will have to swap the stock ecu back in at the changed tps setting to do a fair comparison.

Part of the problem is getting good data out of something with such a slow sampling rate. When you plot your data you have to remember that the ignition timing measurement you get is actually occuring at an rpm approximately half way between the samples on either side of the timing measurement. (If you are only recording two data types)
I have contacted Auterra about recording a time stamp for each data sample taken. They said they would be including that in a future release of their software.

While we are on the topic of Auterra. Has anyone logged any acceleration data? I know our ecu doesn't go for the fast sampling mode but when I looked at the velocity vs time data, the speed data was only changing every third or fourth sample. This translates into a speed update only every 3/4 sec. That is sad. In LIST or METER MODE the samples update much faster. Is everyone else experiencing the same thing?

-EDIT - I will be contacting Brian on monday regarding the rev limiter and see if he will tell me what the target timing advance is supposed to be.

 

brian doesn't know what the target timing is supposed to be...I asked him just 2 days ago and he said he doesn't know....he even asked their resident programmer--Tadashi and never got back to me with it...and that was while I was there sitting in their office...

so you saw more timing just by adjusting the TPS for more resistance @ idle? what resistance did you calibrate it to and what absolute throttle position did you get with auterra? 95%? even 2 to 3 degress over stock is nothing...I would think they would add more than that! does it feel any faster with the tps adjusted the way it is?

even so, you can't drive around with a 2000rpm idle and thinking it's at 5% throttle all the time!!! this is ridiculous...and I have no knowledge of programming (or atleast not anymore) so it's not like I can diagnose this problem myself....I am completely relying on TS to give me my 380 for the ecu + 50 for raising the rev limiter worth of power....and I am getting neither so far

 

That is a real confidence builder. So do they just arbitrarily add a few degrees here and there and call it a day? Have they done any testing on a VQ engine to see what level of advance it can handle?
We really need to get some good timing data from someone with the standard JWT NA ecu. Atleast they have done a substantial amount of work with VQs.

I left the ignition on (engine off) and watched the AUterra % throttle display through the windshield as I rotated the TPS with the throttle wide open.

I am going to do some more testing with both the stock and TS ecus this weekend and then crunch some more numbers.

 

but, if you look at dyno's of other maximas on here with "working" TS ecu's, the difference in power is on par with JWT's vs. stock....and the difference in power is more than a few degrees for sure!!

yeah we definitely need someone with an auterra or other program to datalog their TS ecu or JWT ecu....to see what our timing should be....

did you ever do the IG timing run with the TPS adjusted that way with the stock ecu to see if it also gained 2 or 3 degrees? was it at peak where it added the timing?

regardless, with the gain that I have seen with this ecu on other maximas according to dyno's, we should be feeling it through the "Butt Dyno"