I just changed the antenna motor and now when it goes up it seems that the motor is trying to push the antenna beyond what it is ment to go - it makes a loud rattling noise.

Is there a way to adjust how much power is needed to raise the antenna?

 

BaH stock radio, get sirius and you will be set and wont have that problem any more

 

Come on man, be serious

 

Replace the aerial - the mast isn't reaching it's full height & is jamming on something.

 

NICE - that's what I was looking for! Thanks!

 

Alright, now just out of curiousity... Is there a way you can splice into the power wire for the antenna, and hook a switch up so you can turn off the antenna when playing a cd? Cuz when I switch cds, and I dont turn it to the radio, the antenna goes down when the cd is ejected, and up when its put in... Pretty much, I dont want my antenna to wear out. So and suggestions?


Edit: I am looking at the diagrams right now. Would I just hook it to the power antenna timer? It labels the wire G/Y. Is that Grey or Green?

 

G/Y = Green with Yellow trace. Ideally, you'd want the antenna to stay down when you're listening to CD's, but that's not really possible unless you screw around with the head unit.

The other way to do it is to disconnect the antenna feed from the head unit & splice the accessory feed that goes to the head unit into a switch which is then hooked up to the antenna. When you're key is in the ACC position, you can choose to raise or lower the antenna at your leisure.

Alternately, get a 6 or 12 disk CD stacker.

I know some JDM Max's and other JDM Nissans have an extra switch (or two) that allows you to raise the antenna halfway and/or take full control of the antenna.

 

NismoBaron, so hooking a switch to the Power Antenna Timer wouldn't do the trick. Where is the antenna and accessory feed located?

Much appreciation for the help.

 

Without knowing enough about the timer module, I'd have thought it's use is purely to stop the motor at a preset time i.e. when the antenna has been raised or lowered completely. So sending power into it remotely may or may not screw around with the circuit. Probably simpler to hook up a switch as I suggested (the head unit is actually the switch at this time).

If you pull out the head unit, it normally has a decal with wiring details on it. Failing that, hookup a test lamp to the head unit side of the connector harness and find the feed wire (red or yellow?) that powers on when you turn the key to the ACC position. In most cases, the orange wire is 12V permanent as it keeps the clock & stations in memory.
You'll find a blue wire that's the antenna feed - depending on your brand of head unit, it may be a dark blue or light blue color as one will be for a remote amplifier and the other for the antenna.
You could just cut this wire in the middle & hook up a toggle switch between both ends, which is even simpler.

Good luck

 

hook up a manual switch inline so that you can make it go down whenever, but still go up automatically like it's supposed to.