NISMO Radiator Cap: Coolant Pressure?
NISMO Radiator Cap: Coolant Pressure?
I want to buy a NISMO radiator cap (1.3 bar pressure, I think stock cap is 0.9 bar). I want it for looks but I'm concerned that the higher pressure would be bad for the coolant system. Thoughts or experiences?
Yes i know that higher pressure makes the cooling system more efficient, and thanks for the link Blues, but my question was can our radiator and coolant system take the extra pressure? It's not worth it to me if it's a risk.
if you want it for looks then get the nismo (1.3 bar) but if you want it for function then get one regular stant cap for a 95 300TT (1.2 bar). here is a rundown of the benefits.
Thanks for that article, I've seen it. I'm more looking for personal experiences on Maximas with the higher pressure caps, but I'm guessing that because no one is reporting any problems; there aren't any.
Radiator cap pressure spec is a "relative pressure spec" - ie - its by how much the pressure inside the radiator will have to exceed the surrounding air pressure before it starts releasing fluid into the atmosphere in order to limit the radiator pressure at that absolute max pressure.
I always thought these things were all rice. Thanks for the thread and links Tom and others. This is an interesting idea. For those that want it to look good but don't care about the extra bit of pressure it is very easy to polish the stock Z cap to a nice bling level. I can't see this having any real use for street driving. I never see more than 190 unless I'm sitting in a parking lot. My most consistant temp is 187 in nearly all situations. How cool is it safe to run the coolant for short periods of time? Would it be safe to drop the coolant as low as possible for 1/4 mile runs? What temp would be achievable with either of these caps and the fans on a manual switch?
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Wouldn't 0.9 bar be a vacuum? (negative pressure)
Also, I personally don't think there is any "performance" gain to using one of these -- they only give you a little more breathing room before your car overheats. If the coolant is at a temperature where your stock cap can't handle the pressure, then you are operating well above the T-stat temp and the engine is running hot. For N/A, there would be no gains. For a forced induction setup, since there is more fuel and air (which is hotter because it is compressed) combusting in the engine, then the higher pressure cap might mean the difference between being able to drive the car and being stranded on the side of the road, watching steam and coolant billow from your hood.
A caveat: IF, and this is a big IF, the water pump can get the system to the higher pressure, even at lower temperatures, then you might receive a small benefit because the heat transfer rate is increased. But, since the system was designed with the stock cap in mind, I doubt this is the case.
Thats a great point Mizeree. I hadn't thought of that. I still have the question though. What is the lowest temp that would be safe for 1/4 mile runs? Will the temp ever go below 180 with the fans on manual? If so is it safe?
Originally Posted by Broaner
Thats a great point Mizeree. I hadn't thought of that. I still have the question though. What is the lowest temp that would be safe for 1/4 mile runs? Will the temp ever go below 180 with the fans on manual? If so is it safe?
Under 180? - Not with a properly working and present thermostat no.
Safe? - if your cooling system cannot ensure the motors remains at a temp that prevents the cooling water from boiling, then its not safe. Dont think anybody can say what is going to be safe - it depends on the state of your motor, your cooling system, air temp, tuning, mixture, timing etc.
the water pump can get the system to the higher pressure
Originally Posted by Broaner
Thats a great point Mizeree. I hadn't thought of that. I still have the question though. What is the lowest temp that would be safe for 1/4 mile runs? Will the temp ever go below 180 with the fans on manual? If so is it safe?
Originally Posted by LvR
Dont know if you meant it this way, but its the expanding water that causes the cooling system to run at a specific pressure and not the waterpump - the waterpump is only there to circulate the water and can contribute effectively nothing to the system pressure because of its operation in a sealed-off environment - ie - the inlet and outlet pressures are effectively the same
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