I have a 91 Maxima that will not rev above 2000 rpm........I have a serious power steering fluid leak that I have not been able to pin down yet because the engine is so dirty.....so I cleaned it with some Engine Bright degreaser and washed it off with hot water. I covered the dist cap and some other pieces with saran wrap, but some water may have gotten inside I guess.....could that be the problem or if not what else might it be......It starts fine, idles fine, runs good up to 2000 rpm but then it starts sputtering and dying like it has a rev limiter.......I have it idling right now, hoping its water and it needs to dry out.....then I'm going to try and disconnect the battery for a while and reset the puter.....anything else I should try?.....

 

Check your MAF harness and connector.

 

Sounds like your mass air flow sensor is unplugged and/or bad connection.Check the plug/wiring going to it.

 

I need to learn how to type faster......

 

don't be so wordy.

 

......

 

- Yes, seems like MAF but then MAF is a closed assy with sealed wirings.
- Open and dry the distributor, it will not dry without help.
- TPS box is open like haystack, but will not cause the ECU to activate safe mode (2000rpm limit) only rough run. If you got water in TPS, how will u dry it?

Added:

Hey yes - TPS Throttle pos sensor black square box sits at throttle assy axle end. Is not made to be opened, but I have once repaired and sealed it. Easy fix is to put some sticky sealant over the box edges all around. That is before watering...

 

Whats a TPS box....?

 

Translation===throttle position sensor.

 

TY......was thinking Throttle Plate Sensor.....guess I was close.....looks like it may have been the MAF.........just pulled the connector and the retaining pin is broke so it was barely connected, could have definately gotten wet........Its drying in the basement air right now.......another question.....when I pulled the tube leading from the MAF to the Throttle body there is a big plastic box attached to the tube with something rattling in it........what is that......Thanks again for all the help everyone....

 

now.......another question.....when I pulled the tube leading from the MAF to the Throttle body there is a big plastic box attached to the tube with something rattling in it........what is that......Thanks again for all the help everyone....[/QUOTE]


That is the air filter box. Take the clamps loose on the sides and open it up to see whats loose in there.

 

um are you sure thats not the box your air filter goes in? what size is this box and what tube goes directly to the maf???

 

That is the air filter box. Take the clamps loose on the sides and open it up to see whats loose in there.[/QUOTE]

No......I may be stupid but not dumb....... I already changed the air filter......this is a box that is molded into the plastic tub going from the MAF to the throttle body......instead of just a 3" tube it has something molded onto it...

 

No......I may be stupid but not dumb....... I already changed the air filter......this is a box that is molded into the plastic tub going from the MAF to the throttle body......instead of just a 3" tube it has something molded onto it...[/QUOTE]


Sorry... i misunderstood you....I think you found the resonator.

 

Sorry... i misunderstood you....I think you found the resonator.[/QUOTE]

Heres a pic.....


Resonator.....what does that do..........just make it sound better?.....

 

ya it sounds like your resonator.......go ahead and take that **** off....get somethin round that you can plug the hole with...I used a pcv pipe end cover , and wrapped it tight with duck tape for a good seal....that was until I just went cold air.

 

The resonator cuts some vibrations wavelenghts off and makes noise somewhat quieter above 2500rpm. The saying goes that it also 'eats' pwr. I took it off, and think got better response. While you are at that, drill some 4-6 holes (1") to the filterbox before filter to get CAI without costs as the first intake part really chokes the air input. I also dampened the filterbox (it acts like piano).

 

I'm going to go out on a limb here, but could the injectors possibly be clogged to the point of only allowing enough fuel to get in UP TO 2000 RPM?

Just a wild theory.

 

Six injectors with the same problem? Possible but I would not bet on that:
- Even if one was injector was functional, revs would go high up.
- rpm limit is ECU safe-mode feature which some things trigger: MAF... etc
- How it started? Engine Wash. The injector wiring connectors are sealed, mil specs.

 

If the engine won't rev past 2,000 -2,500 rpm, it's probably the maf. Which I have a spare for sale. $50 shipped.

 

did you get the memo on the TPS reports?

 

Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm-ya....

 

It was the MAF.......finally got back to it this morning, reconnected everything after it dried out and it works fine.....thanks for all the help...

 

34567890

 

Mine is doing the same thing will not pass 2000 rpm i change out the maf and the tps. Now i dont know what to do. I took it to the shop and they said fuel pump so i change that out and still the same thing. Can anyone help me out.

 

did you check the maf connector for corrosion? is the wire in good condition?

 

Well the wires look good but i don't have anything or really know how to check them

 

look inside the connector itself and check for corrosion, sometimes its just a really thin film of green stuff that will prevent good electrical contact. To really be sure, lightly sand both sides of protruding metal connectors, and before reinstalling, fill it up with electrical grease. Make sure the connection is tight. Other than that, have someone sit in the car and rev the engine periodically while you shake all the wires that leads up to the maf around. Also, try removing the battery overnight, then reconnect it in the morning. Hope this helps.

 

Water inside the distributor cap?

Three issues dropping engine into 2k ceiling = SAFE-mode: If its not MAF/TPS or connectors/wirings -then- its missing campos -signal (or missing distributor ground.) Check the signal (inside distributor), GND; see
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/9
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/10

 

ok i got me a multi meter anyone know what the maf should read... or just be happy im getting a reading

 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/9

 

I put a new maf on there same problem no luck there
Do you think i should switch out the computer and see if that do the trick... I mean the computer is whats tell it not to go pass 2000 rpm rite... let me know what u think.

 

well hold the throttle at wot with the MAF connector unplugged, and while still floored, plug the MAF connector back in. does anything change when you plug it in? or does nothing happen? if nothing happens it might be a wiring fault between MAF and ECU

 

no it cut off if u unplug the maf

 

heh. well then. so maf unplugged = dead and maf plugged in = 2000 or below amirite? if that's what it is, then i'm not sure what to tell you.

 

what u think about replacing the computer

 

ecu's are not very prone to dying. more than likely, you have some other bad sensors, causing the engine to run in safe mode. have you tried pulling codes, yet?

 

yes it said i need a new fuel pump so i replace it. it start stronger than before but still same problems

 

i replace the computer before when my heater core leak and mess it up

 

check where your ECU is, the heater core may be leaking into the ECU, killing part of it in the process. Other than that, try getting a mechanic's pick and clean on the plug side of the MAF pigtail. Engine not revving past 2k is highly indicative of MAF failure. Have you tried wiggling every wires that's in the engine bay yet?

Forgot to mention, you need to reset your ECU when you replace something that is faulty, or the code stored in ECU will prevent it's normal functions.