95 V6 sputters when you dont touch the throttle. It can happen at any temperature. If it starts to bog you can stomp the throttle and the rpm's jump up fine and revs smoothly. Typically throws out a cloud of black smoke after a stall, but replacing the O2 sensor seemed to help that.

It will also start to bog at light throttle on the highway. The rpms just start dropping and the engine stops making power until you STOMP the throttle at which point it returns back to smooth operation. Lightly easing into it usually yields no change at all until near WOT.

However, alot of the time the car runs beautifully. If its not about to stall the idle is smooth and even right around 700rpm. Car still accellerates strong and doesn't misfire even under high loads.

I've replaced the IAC, EGR, O2 sensor, cleaned the MAF, IAT, fabbed an entirely new intake duct and it STILL stalls.

Any ideas?

 

is CEL on ?Are you getting any codes?

 

Yes the CEL is on, and it gives me these 2 codes:

01 03 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
03 04 - Knock Sensor

From what I've gathered, the knock sensor is a rather ambiguous code and doesn't really help me. And the ECT sensor can't be causing all this.. But I will replace it next.

(Assuming I'm reading the pulses right, I get 1 long pulse, 3 short pulses, 3 long pulses, 4 short pulses, then it starts over.)

 

That's just the same thing I'm working on at the moment. Consul test last wednesday showed the same diagnostic codes.

Replaced the knock sensor 6 months ago and the one I took out was broken in 3 pieces.

Tomorrow getting the temp. sensor and am putting it in during this weekend. Seems this sensor gives signals to the ECM to control motor management and ignition timing.

Also replaced the throttle position sensor (M/T transmission) which kept sticking and gave me a lot of problems. That was a great relieve on throttle handling.

 

I bet the temp sensor fixes your stalling. It sounds as if the ECU thinks the engine is cold all the time, thus running a very rich condition under normal operating temps. If that doesn't cure the problem, check the fuel pressure.

 

Knock sensor will hurt your performance but it will not cause your car to sputter. It is supposed to detect when the engine is knocking and retard timing accordingly. This sensor going out is a common problem in 95-99 maximas.

JRnissanparts.com has a OEM manufactured (not in nissan box) Knock sensor for $85 shipped. You may want to consider getting it from them.

What did you clean the MAF with? Electronic Cleaner?

From FAQ and ECU codes defined sticky
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...30&postcount=4
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...30&postcount=9
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...3&postcount=42

 

Thanks njmaxseltd,
Just the same i was thinking. Hope it will works.
Feul pressure will be tricky because i'm running on LPG (gas).

 

Update on my max, looks like I wont bother with the sensors. Valves are rattling and rods knocking on the front bank, and its burning oil.

 

That doesn't sound to good....

 

Sounds like it missed a few scheduled oil changes.

 

Or maybe it's just a POS import

Granted, it did outlast my mustangs motor.


Anyone done a good NA build-up on these motors before?
Pondering some new cams, lil headwork and some high-comp pistons...