Overheat and "Vent Control Valve"
Overheat and "Vent Control Valve"
Got trouble codes 0208 and 0215. FSM tells me that these codes are for "Overheat" and "Vent Control Valve", respectively.
The Vent Control Valve is the solenoid on the EVAP canister. While I'm not familiar with this, I think I can figure out how to replace it. The Haynes Manual does a poor job in giving direction on this repair.
I have no idea what the "Overheat" code means. I recently replaced my radiator and the coolant level is holding just fine so no leaks. I double checked to make sure all the wire connections were secure from the radiator fan and they are (only 2 of them).
The FSM states that the fan should come on whenever you turn on the AC and you're going less than 50mph. My fan doesn't seem to come on even though it was working fine before I replaced my radiator. There are only two connections to the fan motors and I'm confused as to why its not working now. I'm going on the assumption that this is what's causing the 0208 "Overheat" code.
Anyone have any experience or direction either of these issues? Thanks.
The Vent Control Valve is the solenoid on the EVAP canister. While I'm not familiar with this, I think I can figure out how to replace it. The Haynes Manual does a poor job in giving direction on this repair.
I have no idea what the "Overheat" code means. I recently replaced my radiator and the coolant level is holding just fine so no leaks. I double checked to make sure all the wire connections were secure from the radiator fan and they are (only 2 of them).
The FSM states that the fan should come on whenever you turn on the AC and you're going less than 50mph. My fan doesn't seem to come on even though it was working fine before I replaced my radiator. There are only two connections to the fan motors and I'm confused as to why its not working now. I'm going on the assumption that this is what's causing the 0208 "Overheat" code.
Anyone have any experience or direction either of these issues? Thanks.
My question is why the fan isn't working now but was working just fine before I replaced my radiator. This would lead me to think that I did something to the fan that caused a malfunction but that's hard to do short of me smacking it around, which I didn't.
I suppose the extreme coincidence of me changing moving the fan and the fan simultaneously becoming inoperative is possible, but I don't want to believe that just yet.
I suppose the extreme coincidence of me changing moving the fan and the fan simultaneously becoming inoperative is possible, but I don't want to believe that just yet.
Check out my thread for the Vent Control Valve - http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=370495
Thanks for the link to your thread. Two things I want to mention. One is that the FSM tells me, as you point out in your thread, that the vent control valve should see 11V-14V with the ignition on. I can test that with a multimeter. The problem is that the diagram sucks and I have no real idea of where the vent control valve is or what it looks like.
Second, with regard to what one of the posters said about how the vent control valve does not affect performance at all. The Haynes Manual states that the evap canister purge valve (I'm assuming this is the same as the vent control valve mentioned in the FSM) when defective can cause "poor idle, stalling and poor driveability" (Haynes Sect. 6-21).
So, does anyone know where the vent control valve is or what it looks like?
Second, with regard to what one of the posters said about how the vent control valve does not affect performance at all. The Haynes Manual states that the evap canister purge valve (I'm assuming this is the same as the vent control valve mentioned in the FSM) when defective can cause "poor idle, stalling and poor driveability" (Haynes Sect. 6-21).
So, does anyone know where the vent control valve is or what it looks like?
Some of the parts are under the hood, but the EVAP canister and related parts are just behind the driver's side rear wheel, but the diagram you looked at probably showed it with at least one tube unhooked to make it easier to see all the parts. I'm gonna start poking around under there later today - loose tubes or clogs can cause the failure, so we may not be dealing with broken parts (just parts that need to be cleaned out).
And yes, the purge valve and vent valve are two different parts.
And yes, the purge valve and vent valve are two different parts.
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