Ok guys I did a tune up on my car this weekend, and I also pulled codes. I got code 2 (red) 1 (green), with is the ignition signal code....wtf? (haynes manual says take it to the dealer for this code). My next code is 4(red) 1(green) with is the fuel temp. sensor, this may explain some of my hot start issues. Does any one have any experience with either one of these codes? Please offere some advice. Also where does the vac hose fromt he bottom of the egr sylonoid go? I found mine was not hooked up so I just plugged it into my mid pipe. Thanks for the help guys. I changed my plugs, and looked for vac leaks this weekend, and straightened out my intake a little bit and the car is running nice (well today it is). Help me out with these codes please.

-Carson

-also where the heck is the fuel temp. sensor...is it part of the fpr? I looked at my manual then looked under the hood and did not see it right off the bat.

 

bump.....no one has experience with either of these?

 

yes...?

get a different manual...if any thing says "take to dealer" theyre full of mostly ****....i mean you buy the books to work on the cars your self you shouldnt have to put up with the "take to dealer" bull****

mabe someone with a factory manual could help ya out

 

Rule of thumb, clear the codes, and see if they come back (but then again...you have a boost 4th gen, so you probably already did this). If you get code 21 again....try starting the car when you're pulling codes....it won't hurt anything, the car will just run in open loop...see if it goes away. As for the fuel temp sensor......if it comes back....replace it. It should be on the fuel pressure regulator.

S

 

I have the FSM...I just used the haynes because it was already in my car...I will see what the FSM says on the subject.

-I have cleared the codes, and the car ran like it was new for about 2 days (20 miles) or driving. Though its still running better now that I have done the tune up, the car is still having its funky idle, and problems when the motor is hot. I am going to pull codes again and see whats up.

Does anyone know where the fuel temp sensor is and if it is part of the FPR?

 

Yes, the fuel temp sensor is built into the FPR...

 

thanks for the reply wgn, has any one on here replaced just a FPR without the rail? Can you take it off with out taking other parts out? I know I will need the bleed the system of pressure...but other than that, any advice? Thanks.

-Carson

 

yeah you can replace it without taking off the rail. Its not that hard. Just make sure you get the right fuel line(rubber part like a vaccum hose). I actually have a FPR but it doesn't have the Fuel temp sensor in it.

 

I believe that that 87-88s on had the fuel temp sensor (I think thats what I read)

 

85-88 all have the fuel temp sensor. Basically locate the wire harness coming off the FPR and you have the sensor. You might try checking to see if it has a good connection. Otherwise, you'd probably should replace the sensor and FPR all at once.

S

 

ok, I am throwing the fuel temp code because the spade connection is broken off the end of the fuel temp sensor so its not even hooked up. Could this be causing a crappy warm idle? Please help me out with these codes. Also I check the fuseable link for the ignition code and its fine...other than that I don't know what to check other than just going thru with a meter testing everything. Anyone with experience with these codes? Thanks.

-Carson

 

In the FSM I have for the 88 there are three types of situations. Abnormal Idling: No fast Idle,Low Idle,High Idle. Which one is your car having trouble with? And what is the timing set at. I know you were trying to fix an Idle problem before. After you set the Idle did you re check the timing?

 

I am having issues with low idle....when I turn my lights on my car idles up to about 1200 and it runs fine. When acessories are off and the car is warm it will idle around 400 rpm, while it is doing this it idles very rough. And no I did not check my timing after I set my idle. Any ideas?

 

It idles at 400 rpm? If thats so your Idle is too low. It should be around 750rpm for a Manual and 800rpm for an auto. You may have just set your Idle too low. On the FICD the bottom screw adjust the normal Idle. When you car get to operating temp adjust the screw clockwise to up the rpms. I think you have done this before so you should do fine. Just remember that whenever you adjust the timing you will have to reset the idle again to make it run right. Let me know how things go.

 

The thing is it will idle normal, but once it starts getting up to temp thats when things go to crap. Every once in a while it will idle where it is suposed to but in general it will idle way too low and run crappy....I am guessing it has to do with these codes. I know how to set my timing and my idle.

 

When the engine hits its operating temp it go to the normal Idle. I don't know why it only does it sometimes though. Does it fluctuate like when you have an air intake leak? Or is it more like its either really low, or just right the whole time? Is there something you can do to guarentee it will stall out?

 

if I turn my lights on, it will kick the idle up to about 1200 and everything is fine....if the lights are not on then its really low the whole time...I am trying to figure out what would be causing the car to run this way from the codes its throwing...I did see that if your fuel temp sensor is bad this will cause idle problems...I know how to fix this one, I am more concerned with the ignition code I am throwing right now.

 

The ignition code won't cause your car to act like that. Thats something else. Does your car start up every time you turn the key or does it just click? Thats what mine was doing for awhile.

 

it starts every time

 

Oh
Well I know you have the haynes manual. I think you have the FSM too? I guess you just have to start with the harness that goes to the power transistor. And then from there you'd check the fusible link grounds, the fuse thats labeled 62m. I would make sure the fuses and harness and grounds are all in good sorts first. It may just be a loose connection.

PS: For the Idle situation when your adjusting the screws your unplugging the harness for the FICD right? I know you said you can handle it but some people who are trying to do the same thing might not know.

 

yes I have both of those manuals, and I have read thru them. Haynes says to take it to the dealership, and the FSM has more info. but I am trying to find someone who has thrown this code before, to see what caused it. And on the idle thing I do not unplug anything while I am turing the screws....whats the point of unplugging the harness? When I turn the screw the idle changes.