I bought a new cv joint, and I can't seem to get the mother ****er go in. I've been working on this for hours, everyway I try it won't go in. I've put a small crack in the inner boot trying to get it in with the rubber handle of a jack lever, but I still can't make progress. Did anyone have a hell of a time doing this? And how much shaft should be between the boot and the tranny when its fully inserted? Please help me, thanks.

 

u will have to change the boot before u put it in or the grease will come out when u drive. to get the axle in use vasoline to center the clip that goes in the tranny
do not worry it won't hurt the tranny

 

you have to keep tapping on it with a hammer until you hear click. when i did my tranny swap everyting was fine except for the cvas. when i put in gear all you heard was grinding. just keeping banging it until you hear a click

 

should i be able to feel about an inch of shaft when it is inerted, or doesthe big part meet the tranny

 

dude please stfu unless u got some help

 

the metal sheild on the axle should cover the seal on the tranny

 

I was typing 1 a minute ago with grease all over the other. Im not going to buy another boot, **** that- Im broke from this. The tear is about this big |---------| in real life. Im just going to wrap it in something and seal it, I still don't know if the shaft is all the way in though. I didn't hear a click last time I did either, but there is this much shaft that I can feel with my finger |-----|. Should I be able to touch any of the shaft at all? This is the smooth part I can feel btw, but am I supposed to be able to feel it, or does the big metal part of the joint actually lay flush with the tranny?

 

Thank you big bob, so let me just verify once more: The big metal part should lay flush, I shouldn't be able to stick my finger down there?

 

if the axle is in all the way into the tranny then the dust sheild (metal ring) should be over the seal

 

Thank you very much.

 

if the axle wont go in your ring on the end of the shaft maybe bent. do u still have the old shaft try the ring off that one with more vasoline

 

I think its in all the way, I can still stick my hand through the engine bay and wiggle my finger about this much |----| on the silver shaft. It's not going in any further, and I have a good size cut in the boot, although the rubber is closing it together, I think im going to tape that cut up and drive with it. My mom's car is parked blocking the garage door so I can't test drive it, but I opened the door and moved it back and forth with no problems or sounds. I hope it works.

 

I just recently changed both of my axels and it just takes time a patience.

 

mine came out and went in with no problem.. just lube the splines with grease or liquid wrench..

 

If you dont buy a new boot, it will spit grease out of the boot and water and road grit will just end up destroying your axle and you will be back to where you are right now. And a boots cheaper than an axle.

You cant just tape it....lol do you know the elements its subjected to and the RPMs it turns. Its called a Constant Velocity joint because it is constantly at different angles for turning and bumps in the road. It will constantly flex, and that tape isnt going to make a seal. Dude, buy a boot, not an axle. Next time, maybe consider a mechanic :X

 

How much do boots run?

 

From the dealer its about 30 bux,
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...Category_Code=
You can get it cheaper at your local auto parts store. It will come with the grease.

I cannot believe your even considering putting on the new axle with a torn boot. Whats the point of even installing the axle if your just setting it up to fail by subjecting it to road dirt and etc.?

 

I know at advance, an outer boot it 10, so it has to be in the range.. Do yourself a favor and replace it, and dont drive on it for a day or two then do it, cause by then the damage is done, moisture will take care of the rest for you.

 

if you're still having problem pushing the axle in, try to center the ring on the end with some grease, then put it in as much as you can, pull it out just a wee bit, and then push real hard. that how i got mine in. its a bit difficult to explain, but pushing real hard and letting it have a bit of travel room seem to help. i spend couple hours getting exhausted by just pushing hard as i can but it wouldn't go. hope that helps

 

Let me add my two cents on CV joint replacement....
I recently replaced the Driver's side CV shaft in my 97 SE (ltd slip). I used a Mevotech remanufactured axle. It did not have the metal collar like the factory one, so it was a bit difficult to see if the axle was actually fully engaged (inserted) into the transaxle. About two months later, the car was on the highway, suddenly lost power, both the tach and speedo spiked and there was much grinding from the transmission. My first thought was that the transmission failed, but after towing it home, we discovered that the axle had worked itself out of the axle housing. "Evidently", we didn't get if fully seated. The end of the axle shaft was badly ground from where the gears had rubbed against it as it slipped out of the tranny. So... believing this was entirely an operator error on my part, I purchased another new axle (Mevotech again). This time I use a sledge hammer to ensure that baby was fully "bottomed out" in the transaxle.. A week later, it also slipped out. WTF? I went back to the part store, discovered they still had my original core. Very closely compared it. The joints and shafts were exactly identical in every respect, expect for the steel collar on the original... and the snap ring on the Mevotech was thinner in gauge, a shade smaller in overall width, and had less "spring" to it. Took the org snap ring that had been in the car for 250,000 km, put it onto the Mevotech, used a file to clean up the gear teeth on the shaft and I was back in business. That was about two months ago. Moral of the story... always look closely at the snap ring retainer.
-Terry