Damn! Decided to replace my rear main (both the metal retaining seal and the c shaped seal under it) today. First, let me say that getting the old one out was a huge PITA...but I finally managed to get it out.

Then, I RVT'd the metal seal retainer and the c shaped seal that goes be low it according to the FSM. Getting the new one in was even worse than getting tthe old one out! The c shaped seal on the bottom is way to thick for everything to fit in smoothly and it kept poping out.

I was afraid this was gonna happen as DR-Max just rplaced his and he said the same thing. I finally was able to get the metal retaining seal on with most of the c shaped seal in as well. I had to take a screw driver (I really did not like having to do this, but I saw no other option) and push as much of the lower seal in as I could.

However, I had to put in the 3 rear main bolts in and turn each one, one full turn to bring the metal seal in more and more and then I would use the screw driver to push more of the lower seal in. Because the fit was so tight, the bolts had to be cranked on pretty hard (not really all that hard, but more than 10 ft/lbs which is the FSM specs) with a wrench. I finally go the lower seal in all the way along with the upper metal seal.

Then, I went to see if I could tighten the bolts down anymore to make sure that the thing was in all the way and the cheap POS brakes!! Its not like I was cranking on it with a ratchet and a cheater bar... I was using the box end of 10mm wrench! Grade 7 steel my @ss!

So, the other two bolts are still in there and I went ahead and RVT'd the hell outta the lower portion of the rear main (so I can be sure I dont have to deal with this awful experience again). More than likely I will be fine (especially since they were only in there to less than 10 ft/lbs. when I went in ther), but I figure that I can just PC7 the corner of the rear main where bolt broke off just to be on the safe side.

 

Damn........ you've had some bad hurdles along the way, first the flywheel now the this.

Did you use a feeler gage to see if it will slide behind the seal bracket?? That is the only way I can ensure that it was sitting flushed against the block. It took me a long time to get this seal seated correctly, then we ended up using a seal punch tool and that got it in there in minutes! The bolts are tender so it doesn't need more torquing to get it on there. Looking at your photo below, I don't think you will have a problem. The only thing different that I did was I also put RTV along the top edges of the seal bracket. So is your car up and running?

 

Just do it the right way - use an easy out of some sorts to pull out the broken stud and use a real bolt.

 

Easy out will be the best. Just be careful when you do it. My friend snapped the bolt holding in the reverse position sensor and tried to use an easy out and ended up sliding off the center of the bolt and drilled into the threads of the case. Now his sensor is being held in with silicon and hot glue.

 

The car is still down for now... I cant do anything anyways until I get this flywheel situation figured out.

What exactly is an easy out? I was thinking about drilling the broken stud apart and then retapping the hole with something like a helicoil... maybe the 2 are the same.

Do you guys think I could do this without removing the seal? I think it is possible and I really dont want to have to fight get the seal back in as it took almost an hour. Not to mention once removed, I would probably have to buy a new lower seal again.

 

An easy out is basically a drill bit with reverse threads on it. As it drills in, the threads on the bit grip the broken stud and twist it the opposite way and unscrew it out. Trying to just drilling the stud apart might not be the best idea, you could just get it stuck further in the hole. Try an easy out first.

 

Thanks a lot man... Any place in particular that sells them?

 

^^ i'm pretty sure Sears has them

 

Sears...the Easy out will come with a certain size Drill bit to buy. It will be written on the fron of the package. Buy that size bit while you are there.

Drill out the CENTER..as close to the center of the broken peice as possibly...dont drill all the way through either...it just had to grip the bolt....Use the Easy out by hand ONLY...once you get it in, you can use a vize grip to slowly turn...DO NOT, DO NOT, Break the Easy out...youll have a world of mess if you do that

-matt

 

Alright sounds good. So I first drill in the esay out a little into the broken bolt, then, turn the broken bolt out by hand. Does it matter that the bolt is not broken flush with the surface?? It is probably 1/8 in. down in the hole... I am mainly worried about the easy out sliding off the surface of the broken bolt and then damaging the threads on the engine.

 

The seal bracket seems to be made out of some kind of aluminum. What I'm afraid of is that while you are trying to break the stud apart, that it could create too much pressure inside the bolt hole and crack it all around as it is separated apart. If that happens, then you'd need to get a new one and remove the one you got in there now. Since you are going to pull that out anyway if the bolt hole crack, might as well remove the seal and save yourself $30. Just my 2 cent. Also, I have heard many use RTV in place of the dust (lower) seal and it has worked fine for them.

So did you end up getting the wrong flywheel? Damn you are going thru way more crap than I did. Sorry to hear this man.

 

NOOO....drill in a little hole with the size drill bit they say to buy

screw in the Easy Out by hand....it will come out easy..

-matt

 

Yeah it has been one hell of a weekend. I got the right flywheel, its just that people with a manual already have a signal plate that can be removed from the flywheel. Since this is an auto to manual conversion, my signal plate is riveted to the drive plate that came with my auto. I had thought about this problem before but I thought that it would bolt out... I took a gamble and lost! SO I have to drum up a signal plate from somewhere before I can continue.

Back to the rear main... Do you really think I should remove the metal seal because the easy out would damage it?

 

Ok I will try it... Thanks again!

 

Since all you have to do is drill a hole for the easy-out, then you should be ok. Good luck man!

 

Thanks... I will post back when I either succeed or fail...

 

why are there a lot of rear main seal issues lately? What are the symptoms?

 

A leak that seems to come from between the Tranny and the engine

the cause of this is mostly old age

-matt

 

And some of these guys are doing a tranny swap or replacing the clutch so while they're in there, replacing the rear main seal is recommended due to age. Mine was leaking at 142k miles so I replaced it while I was changing the clutch.

 

The bastard bolt has been removed... THANK GOD!!! And thanks to all of you for your help!!

 

Good work! Now all you need to do is resolve the fw issue and you're set.

 

Yup... Zack342 has an oem manual flywheel for sale that I could use the signal plate off of. So, if I can get him to ship asap, I should be back on the road by this weekend!

 

I have a stock one as well that I dont need..what do you need ??

-matt

 

Sent you PM.

 

Hello all. I know this is an old thread but it is the most relevant. I'm gonna replace the rear main seal on my 2004 Maxima @ 255000 Kms. I have three questions.
1. Is it possible to take out the tranny from the top with an engine hoist instead of from under the car
2. How do I unbolt the flywheel from torque convertor (and also bolt it back when done) while the engine is still on the car?
3. While rebolting the flywheel and torque convertor, is there a chance that torque convertor won't be fully in the tranny (as some youtube videos suggest)? How can I make sure that it doesn't happen?
Spending a large amount on this car now at the mechanic's shop isn't worth it. I'm only doing it coz I have LPG installed in this car and it runs smooth as apart from the oil leak

 

You have a 2004 sixth gen car.

You are in the 4th gen section, for 1995-99 cars.

Seems that raising the car far enough to work on it is an issue for you.

I don't know how you would be able to do this project without raising the car enough to crawl underneath it.

Transmissions are generally designed to be serviced and removed from below.

 

Hi JvG. Thanks for your post. My apologies, I didn't realize I was in the wrong section. But as you said, raising the car high enough is my problem. I can sure crawl under it but probably can't sit under it. Any idea to do it without the vehicle lift?