Well not problems but 1 problem. The clutch is not keeping enough pressure to bring it back up. What happens is after a while of driving when I might be going to release my foot off the clutch....it doesn't come all the way back up. It stays half way down and I can;t change gears. I have to quickly pull the clutch up with my foot and then all the pressure is there again. Checked the line and its not leaking but maybe it is becuasew I see the fluid a little lower in the master cylinder after a while of driving. Should I just change the clutch line? What do you guys think?

 

I know when we did THT's this past weekend, we forgot to mount the clutch bracket on the inside of the car (IIRC). So his clutch wasn't returning ... perhaps you are having the same problem?

Or maybe you just need to bleed the clutch lines.

 

Sounds like you need to bleed the clutch lines properly... Also you should check your clutch pedal height (can't remember specs but its in the Haynes manual)

 

 

what i did instead of the bracket, i used four nuts from a hardware store. They were a perfect fit, and cost me about a dollar.

It sounds like you need to bleed your lines, make sure you do the upper bleeder first, then the lower bleeder. It takes a while to bleed the lines to where the clutch is useable if you have absolutely no pressure, (like i did).

 

While on your back, look at the clutch pedal. There should be a supporting bolt to the right. If you do not have that bolt, the pedal will not come up all the way and will not fully disengage. You will probably have to loosen the master cylinder to get enough play in the pedal to put this bolt in.

 

First.....to give you more details, I don't have the regular hydraulic line. Jeff at maximum Tuning uses a 3/16" steel brake line with the metric adaptor at the end which is easier than the stock hydraulic lines. My friend and I bled the clutch line good. We were doing it for a while and the clutch is nice and firm. And another thing happened last night. I was at teh stop light and I had the clutch all the way down but the car started moving more and more. Then I realized the clutch was losing pressure even thought the clutch pedal was to the ground. I pulled in the service station and picked the clutch up again and it had the pressure again. Looked at the fluid and it was OK but I think I went down a little. I think I will just change the line. I heard that there could possibly be a leak from the slave cylinder. I will check later.

 

Sounds to me like either your master or slave cylinder is not holding pressure...have you changed either...?

 

Whats up man. Funny thing is I've seen you but you haven't seen me. I use to be on Temple's campus quiet a bit. Anyway...the master cylinder is brand new but the slave cylinder looks like garbage. Since there is no leak coming from the line...I will just replace the slave cylinder and see what happens.

 

I have a question. Ok my maxima has 173,663 miles on it. I was thinking into buy a used JDM engine but its sooo damn hard to find one especially that will fit in a 95 Max SE. Would it be best to buy a new Engine because i wanna keep my car and represent the MAx's. I mean i take my car to the dragstrip wow im surprised it can do the qtr mile while im flooring it. 16.4 secs though :S tooo slow but, id like to get an opinion on which type of engine would be of perfect fitment for a 95 maxima. Please let me know since i cannot find a engine online... That or im not looking hard enough. Somone help I'd really appreciate it

 

I would say slave cylinder is shot unless you find any leak on the hydralic line.

 

So you say...you've been stalking me? ...lol...Hey man...u should have holla-ed at me..regardless. Swap out the slave cylinder and re-bleed the system, and lets see from there.

 

No leak in the line. I checked a bunch of times. I didnt even drive the car since the night before and when I checked the the master cylinder the fluid was very low. It must be the slave cylinder. Need to call some dealerships today.

 

No offense, but what does this have to do with this thread? I would suggest starting your own thread about your own car.

 

OK....question....why when I work the clutch pedal when the car is off it always comes back up. I mean I pressed it like 100 times and it returns right up. I hopt this is not a stupid question. I figured if no pressure is returning then it wouldn't return period. Didn't think it would matter if the car was on or not.

 

Also....does clutch pedal height make a difference? You know how you can adjust the height of the pedal on the clutch when it connects to the master cylinder? We have it so that its threaded out kind of far I believe. Maybe it sits a little too hight because its not even with the brake pedal and thatsd where I heard it should be. Anyone ever hear this?

 

What bracket are you referring to sir?

 

Is this the bracket? If it is I have to check with my friend. He mounted the clutch pedal. I really didn't.

 

What bolt to the right are you referring too? I remember that there was the bolts at the top and the nuts that screw to the master cylinder. Are you saying there is something to the right of the clutch pedal?

 

Maybe you just need to adjust the pedal higher to allow more travel of the master cyl. having it too short then it wont push the piston as far as it needs to be so that might be the reason its not fully dis engaging.

 

Another thing- does your pedal bottom out and hit the floor or that stop piece? That can show that it wants to go further but is physically blocked either from hitting the carpet or that rubber thing. I just think the pedal needs some adjusting.

 

Ok...so far ir turns out that the slave cylinder was the problem. We changes it yesterday and the car has been driving fine. I will keep you posted. But the final problrem I believe is that my reverse lights are not owrking. I did what the instructions said.....green and green/white line from car harness spliced to blue and blue/red lines on tranny harness. NO reverse lights. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks. Mike.

 

Hey Mike...
Glad to hear you got the transmission swap finally done. Congrats!!!
Hope you can get everything worked out!

 

Thanks Mike. I'll be down there maybe in August. I'll call you.

 

How much would it cost to swap an auto to a 5 speed?

 

Anywhere from $1000-$3000.

 

I have a 96 and I find that long antenna very ugly and i want to replace it with the internal ones. Or something similar (roof antennas, etc), so would I have to completely remove it from the cavity then patch it up? How would I go about doing that?

 

lol someone has already been for topic hijacking .. you could at least reply to a similar thread or ask in the Audio section ... this thread is about transmission swaps

 

how much would it be if I were to get the 3.5 standard...and dump in mine...again I have the 3.0 auto

 

The cost would be about the same (although you might expect to pay more for a used one as most probably do not have many miles on them).

BUT... Get ready for customizing hell. Unless you know this car mechanically like the back of your hand, dont try it.

 

Guess that was supposed to be funny......why not go to the appropriate forum and quit being an @$S...better yet...do this...

 

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