95 Maxima SE acting up...
95 Maxima SE acting up...
Just over the weekend it seems that something has begun to fail on my Max. The car usually started up basically instantly. Blip the key and it's running. Well over the weekend when it's cold, I had it not start on me a few times. you know you get used to starting your car, so when I was doing my normal routine it just wouldn't start. One the 2nd attempt it would fire right up - or if I keep cranking it for 2-3 seconds it will start.
I will go out and say it's not the starter or battery. Both are new (Nissan starter), the terminals are clean and the engine cranks over just fine. It just fails to start like it used to. My thoughts are it could be the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, CKPS, CMPS or the ECTS.
I have noticed over the last 4-5 thousand miles that at a steady throttle angle, the car seems to drop off in terms of power. Not a huge amount, but it's noticable while accelerating. It's like a surge in power. I have already replaced my Knock Sensor and know what the 3k rpm drop in power felt like. This isn't the same - it might happen at 2k rpm or 3500 rpm. It does not feel like it's missing or has a dead cylinder - it's just like the whole engine drops down on power for a moment and then power comes back. At WOT, the engine runs good and accelerates strong. It also idles smooth and steady.
I know there are a ton of people on this forum who have had issues with starting. I suppose it could also be an intermittent wiring isuse and I'm going to check the wire breakage TSB. Any help or thoughts would be appreciated. I'm going to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see how that looks.
I will go out and say it's not the starter or battery. Both are new (Nissan starter), the terminals are clean and the engine cranks over just fine. It just fails to start like it used to. My thoughts are it could be the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, CKPS, CMPS or the ECTS.
I have noticed over the last 4-5 thousand miles that at a steady throttle angle, the car seems to drop off in terms of power. Not a huge amount, but it's noticable while accelerating. It's like a surge in power. I have already replaced my Knock Sensor and know what the 3k rpm drop in power felt like. This isn't the same - it might happen at 2k rpm or 3500 rpm. It does not feel like it's missing or has a dead cylinder - it's just like the whole engine drops down on power for a moment and then power comes back. At WOT, the engine runs good and accelerates strong. It also idles smooth and steady.
I know there are a ton of people on this forum who have had issues with starting. I suppose it could also be an intermittent wiring isuse and I'm going to check the wire breakage TSB. Any help or thoughts would be appreciated. I'm going to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see how that looks.
My money is on the fuel pump. I had the exact same thing happen to me on cold starts. I bought a fuel pressure gauge that attaches right after the fuel filter. The pump was not generating the 43 psi before start up (key at the ON position) like it is supposed to. After 5 seconds of cranking it would just barely build up enough pressure to start. I replaced the pump and now it fires like a champ!
i30ds - how did you isolate to be the fuel pump as opposed to the FPR - I remember reading your thread, but its just not coming to me right now. Also, where did you get your replacement fuel pump? Any words of advice on the replacement - (difficulty, did you replace the screen, etc.).
Cheers. I have a 96 that for as long as I can remember always needs extended cranking to get running. I've just about replaced everything other than the FPR and pump.
Cheers. I have a 96 that for as long as I can remember always needs extended cranking to get running. I've just about replaced everything other than the FPR and pump.
Assuming the FPR and fuel pump (among other related ignition things like spark plugs, coils, starter, clean TB, clean IACV, etc.) are fine, would leaky injectors cause extended cold start cranking?
Maybe so. But I'm still faced with a performance issue with the car as well. That should not be related to the ignition switch. The throttle body is clean, IACV is clean, plugs look good if not a bit white (lean). I replaced the MAF not too long ago and that didn't change anything (bought a used one for $20).
I just went out and pulled codes and after 4000 miles, there are no codes stored.
I just went out and pulled codes and after 4000 miles, there are no codes stored.
Originally Posted by njmodi
i30ds - how did you isolate to be the fuel pump as opposed to the FPR - I remember reading your thread, but its just not coming to me right now. Also, where did you get your replacement fuel pump? Any words of advice on the replacement - (difficulty, did you replace the screen, etc.).
Cheers. I have a 96 that for as long as I can remember always needs extended cranking to get running. I've just about replaced everything other than the FPR and pump.
Cheers. I have a 96 that for as long as I can remember always needs extended cranking to get running. I've just about replaced everything other than the FPR and pump.
I got the replacement pump from everything nissan. I will never ever put anything from like napa, auto zone, etc... in again. At first, I used one of those and it did nothing as it was defective just like the old one (maybe it got dropped??). Anyways, after that, I thought that it could not have been the fuel pump and I chased the **** all over the place. To make a long story short, I came back to the fuel pump, returned the cheap one, and replaced it with OEM nissan and BAM fired right up. Not a problem since.
Originally Posted by i30ds
I was not exactly sure at the time. The fuel pump is supposed to create pressure prior to start up and if you carefully listen, you can hear the pump. I heard nothing. I was pretty sure that the problem was IN the tank. Plus, the old pump would whine after I turned the car off after a long drive. I had NO drivability issues once started so the FPR was unlikely.
I got the replacement pump from everything nissan. I will never ever put anything from like napa, auto zone, etc... in again. At first, I used one of those and it did nothing as it was defective just like the old one (maybe it got dropped??). Anyways, after that, I thought that it could not have been the fuel pump and I chased the **** all over the place. To make a long story short, I came back to the fuel pump, returned the cheap one, and replaced it with OEM nissan and BAM fired right up. Not a problem since.
I got the replacement pump from everything nissan. I will never ever put anything from like napa, auto zone, etc... in again. At first, I used one of those and it did nothing as it was defective just like the old one (maybe it got dropped??). Anyways, after that, I thought that it could not have been the fuel pump and I chased the **** all over the place. To make a long story short, I came back to the fuel pump, returned the cheap one, and replaced it with OEM nissan and BAM fired right up. Not a problem since.
invisible post -> I can't see any of Dave Sz's posts in this thread... they just don't show up - so it looks like jeff is talking to himself...
Originally Posted by njmodi
i30ds -just to clarify - you had hard starting issues too right? as opposed to a no-start condition.
invisible post -> I can't see any of Dave Sz's posts in this thread... they just don't show up - so it looks like jeff is talking to himself...
invisible post -> I can't see any of Dave Sz's posts in this thread... they just don't show up - so it looks like jeff is talking to himself...
The battery, starter, spark plugs, fuel filter were all new. The IACV and TB were clean.
I cant see the Dave Sz posts either.
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