Front to rear brake bias question
Hello everyone:
On my Maxima, I just replaced my front pads which were Stillen metal matrix to the original factory pads -- Also changed the rotors back to original factory type because the Stillen rotors got fairly grooved and scored --
Anyway, my front pads were about down to almost nothing while the rears have still about 9mm left on them -- almost like new -- Is this normal for front to rear brake bias -- Are the front brakes set up to do 90% of the work?
I have the Goodridge SST lines -- maybe there is still some slack in the rear brake lines??
Anybody experienced anything similar to this?
On my Maxima, I just replaced my front pads which were Stillen metal matrix to the original factory pads -- Also changed the rotors back to original factory type because the Stillen rotors got fairly grooved and scored --
Anyway, my front pads were about down to almost nothing while the rears have still about 9mm left on them -- almost like new -- Is this normal for front to rear brake bias -- Are the front brakes set up to do 90% of the work?
I have the Goodridge SST lines -- maybe there is still some slack in the rear brake lines??
Anybody experienced anything similar to this?
Originally posted by chris j vurnis
Hello everyone:
On my Maxima, I just replaced my front pads which were Stillen metal matrix to the original factory pads -- Also changed the rotors back to original factory type because the Stillen rotors got fairly grooved and scored --
Anyway, my front pads were about down to almost nothing while the rears have still about 9mm left on them -- almost like new -- Is this normal for front to rear brake bias -- Are the front brakes set up to do 90% of the work?
I have the Goodridge SST lines -- maybe there is still some slack in the rear brake lines??
Anybody experienced anything similar to this?
Hello everyone:
On my Maxima, I just replaced my front pads which were Stillen metal matrix to the original factory pads -- Also changed the rotors back to original factory type because the Stillen rotors got fairly grooved and scored --
Anyway, my front pads were about down to almost nothing while the rears have still about 9mm left on them -- almost like new -- Is this normal for front to rear brake bias -- Are the front brakes set up to do 90% of the work?
I have the Goodridge SST lines -- maybe there is still some slack in the rear brake lines??
Anybody experienced anything similar to this?
Hello:
Of course there is weight transfer and then that affects the basic front rear bias setup -- but at the rate my pads are wearing out, I think 90:10 front to rear is a bit extreme.
Since our cars are 60:40 front to rear static weight distribution, I would guess that a 70:30 front to rear bias would be acceptable --
Even in the rain, my rear tires have never ever locked up on me in the 6 years I've owned my car -- but I'm always fighting front tire locking in emergency situations --
even though I got really nice tires -- Bridgestone S-02 -- fairly even camber --
Of course there is weight transfer and then that affects the basic front rear bias setup -- but at the rate my pads are wearing out, I think 90:10 front to rear is a bit extreme.
Since our cars are 60:40 front to rear static weight distribution, I would guess that a 70:30 front to rear bias would be acceptable --
Even in the rain, my rear tires have never ever locked up on me in the 6 years I've owned my car -- but I'm always fighting front tire locking in emergency situations --
even though I got really nice tires -- Bridgestone S-02 -- fairly even camber --
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,857
From: San Bruno, Petaluma, SF Bay area
yea fronts do about 80% of your braking. Front pads wearing out faster is normal. They sell aftermarket adjustable vlaves where you can dial in more rear braking power, you can even tune more braking left and right. Id like to get this, i never lock up the rears. In emergency situations i think your fronts will always lock up cause the tires havent had a chance to load up.
Re: welll
Originally posted by Vinipux
you can tighten the rear break every time you pull on the hand brake, the front break is self adjustable
you can tighten the rear break every time you pull on the hand brake, the front break is self adjustable
Where is the the device that splits front and back located?
Re: Re: welll
Originally posted by maximizer
ye but this prematurly wears out rear pads, since they constantly press against the rotor. Isn't there some kind of a valve that controls rear and back brake line pressure.
Where is the the device that splits front and back located?
ye but this prematurly wears out rear pads, since they constantly press against the rotor. Isn't there some kind of a valve that controls rear and back brake line pressure.
Where is the the device that splits front and back located?
Re: Re: Re: welll
Adjusting rear brake with the parking brake only applies to drum brakes I think. I'm pretty sure all the brakes on the Maxima (4 wheel disc) are self adjusting.
As for front/rear bias, yes the fronts should wear approximately twice as fast as the rears. I found that in stock form, my fronts lasted 30k, rears were still around half good. I was lazy so had all four brakes replaced. Then I lowered my car, and now the rears seem to be wearing faster than the front! At least report (45k), my fronts were 70%, rears 60%! Must be due to less nosedive during braking.
As for front/rear bias, yes the fronts should wear approximately twice as fast as the rears. I found that in stock form, my fronts lasted 30k, rears were still around half good. I was lazy so had all four brakes replaced. Then I lowered my car, and now the rears seem to be wearing faster than the front! At least report (45k), my fronts were 70%, rears 60%! Must be due to less nosedive during braking.
Originally posted by Vinipux
no, I'm not talking about driving w/ the e-brake on, I'm just saying that every time you pull on the e-brake, like when you park, it tightens itself, while the front brakes are self adjusting
no, I'm not talking about driving w/ the e-brake on, I'm just saying that every time you pull on the e-brake, like when you park, it tightens itself, while the front brakes are self adjusting
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,857
From: San Bruno, Petaluma, SF Bay area
ok, you can buy them from Wilwood, be careful, if you dont know how to tune it you can cause yourself to spin out and crash!
there is no such thing as an E-brake, its a PARKING brake. and front and rear are disc brakes, all self adjusting, the parking brake thing adjustment is for drum brakes.
there is no such thing as an E-brake, its a PARKING brake. and front and rear are disc brakes, all self adjusting, the parking brake thing adjustment is for drum brakes.
I know I just ressurrected an old post but I need some help. I've had my 98 for 3 and a half years and in that time I have done 7 brake jobs and the 8th is waiting to be done. By problem is not the pads wearing out on the front, rather the front rotors are getting so hot that they warp. On the other hand, the rear pads and rotors are fine. Only changed the rear pads because the 4 wheel brake job was the same price as the 2 wheel job. Now I have to put on a third set of rotors on the front because these along with the factory rotors have been turned as much as they could.
This can't be normal and I also feels as thought my front brakes are doing way too much work. Called the dealer and after talking about 20 minutes, the guy admits that yeah, it could be because of the rear brake line that the TSB is on. I'm just looking for some more ammo before going into the dealer. Plus I need to change my rotor before going in because they will charge $110 apiece for new ones...
Anyone have a problem with front rotors over heating?
This can't be normal and I also feels as thought my front brakes are doing way too much work. Called the dealer and after talking about 20 minutes, the guy admits that yeah, it could be because of the rear brake line that the TSB is on. I'm just looking for some more ammo before going into the dealer. Plus I need to change my rotor before going in because they will charge $110 apiece for new ones...
Anyone have a problem with front rotors over heating?
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