anyways i bought new pads for my rear brakes bc of them making a loud scraping noise, now that i inspect them the rear right is down the the metal and the rear left has a lot of meat left on it, so then i attempt to change the rear right and i had the hammer out the caliper off the disc and when i attempt to use a clamp to push the caliper back in it wont moce so then i check the e brake it is and the brake all depressed so im lost and frustrated any suggestions on how to get this caliper to loosen up?? so i can at least put some pads on em or is the caliper shot?

 

First off, the rear calipers turn clockwise to be compressed.
Second, the eneven ware indicates a problem with a caliper.

 

how? i tried useing the hands its seized is there a special tool to use??

 

Yes there is a special tool. You can get it from most parts places. You can also just use needle nose pliers. I've done it both ways, and didn't notice any difference in difficulty. Both ways take forever and whoever designed them this way needs to be shot.

 

so its that difficult bc its so damn hard to move, i just tried using a hammer and needle noise pliers no luck, what tool is it called that i need?? it so hard i just thought it was siezed?

 

It sounds like it is seized. One side wearing down the pads to nothing also indicates it. You can try to loosen it up, but even if you do, it will seize up again. Sounds like the caliper is on the way out and just needs replacing.

 

thanks for the input, know any site i can order an oem replacement caliper, bc i really dont want to take it to a shop this same thing happened to my buddies 95 except the front and firestone charges him $600 personally i think he got ripped off, in ur oppinion what would it cost at a shop, but id still rather do it on my own??

 

I went to autozone and picked one up for $80 and did it myself. I'm not a gear head by any means, but it was pretty self explanatory when I took the wheel off and looked at it. Two types of calipers you can get, loaded and unloaded. Loaded ones come with pads, unloaded does not. I'd opt for the unloaded since they pawn off some cheap pads in the loaded kit. It still comes with all new hardware. Just take it slow and look at where all the bolts go. Since yours seized up and you ran on it til you heard scraping, I would check your rotors for warpage or any other type of damage. If the rotor looks ok, sand it down on both sides to get any glazing off that might have accured. The glazing causes your brakes to make annoying humming sounds when you let off the brake and you're coasting. Bleed the brake line thoroughly as well.

 

alright thanks for the help.

 

so i bought the tool to conmpress the piston even with my whole body weight into it i onyl got to move it like a lil, im guessing its seized unfortuanetly the autopart stoer here doesn't have the caliper i need to im SOL have to order from the net

 

You should be able to pick up a rebuilt caliper from your local Auto Zone. I don't see why you'd have to order it if you live in Tampa. I would imagine there's more than one auto parts store in the Tampa area.

 

my two cents....My right rear was wearing unevenly as well. The right side was way more worn then the left side. Problem? The anchor plate (the thing that the pads slide and sit on when the caliper is removed with the two 17mm bolts, has two little pistons with rubber dust boots that SHOULD slide easily in and out. Check these and see if one or both of them are seized up. If these dont move it forces the pads on the rotors when you tighten the caliper back on. If those are lubed up fine and working good, then I duno what to say because that is what my problem was. Since nissan doesn't sell individual components for the caliper assembly, I got a complete rear caliper from a junk yard for 35 bucks as compared to a couple hundred, and just used the parts i needed (anchor plate). Everything works great now. As for turning it...I used a vise grip and grabbed two of the gaps at a time to turn it 90 degrees. My right rear was way harder then my left rear as well. I plan on completely rebuilding each caliper with junkyard parts. Luuuube baby.

 

So true .


There is a shop that I know that will put them on and turn them for $40 bucks. I will gladly let them do that next time .

 

You need this tool to rotate the piston back into place, using a hammer will only damage it.

 

lol
when i first changed the brake pads I couldn't figure out what to do with the rear calipers then I decided that there must be some trick so I came and read on here and then went to Oreilly to get that tool. I asked the guy where they would have the tool for the rear calipers... I cracked up when he showed it to me.

 

i got that tool still no luck in moving the bastard even with my body weight into it i just wore myself out, so im opting to buy a caliper from pepboys for like 90bucks, however im lost on what other parts i need to get to replace this old caliper is there a tool to plug up the break line so it won't leak all over the place when i take out the old caliper,

and what else do i need to bleed the brakes, if u can just list the tools and parts ill need, right now all i got is that special tool a ratchet set, new pads, and tomm im buying the caliper anything else, type of grease, hardware, im lost????

 

i would rent this tool first!

go to autozone and rent the rear brake caliper tool

it is like 30 - 35 bucks. you get your money back when you return the tool.

it comes in a red plastic case

here is a picture

http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=1048

it works a lot better than the tool you have

now..if that doesn't work then check into calipers and parts

you should pick up a service manual too. it will help you out a lot!

also try

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php

it might just be a frozen caliper pin and/or pins causing your uneven wear. you can pick those up at local nissan dealer for 10-15 bucks a piece.

make sure they are in the right spot too. top/bottom. one caliper pin is regular and the other has a rubber boot on the bottom.
sometimes the techs install them backwards after a brake job.

i would recommend getting a brake hardware kit from nissan for 20 bucks. it comes with the grease for the caliper pins (orange color)
anti-squeal (gold color) plus the new clips and shims too

otherwise pick up some caliper pin grease at autozone $0.99 a package

you might want to check into getting a new torque member if you have a frozen (rusted) caliper pin.


good luck

 

thanks im real short on time though i dont' know if i can get all that stuff at the dealer wont the auto store have that stuff??