Guy there is a slow leak from where the engine meets the tranny. The question I have is if i was to put some silicone on the connection where it meets would this be a good idea? Any bad things if I did it. Has anyone done this? Thanks Anthony

 

its probably the rear main seal... dont put any silicone on it cuz it will find a different path... to fix the problem u have to drop the trans and get a new rear main seal

 

Damn that was what i was dreading to hear but thanks bro for the quick response. Any idea how much on average it costs? I am thinking dealer would want my left arm.

 

Only if you are left handed.

 

I had my mechanic do it, however if I could do it over I would do it myself and save the $$. I just had him do it, because I wasn't sure what was wrong at first. The oil leak was getting on my flywheel and causing the car to jerk when I took off in first gear.

 

Its going to be 750 bucks at the dealer the part is about 40 bucks if I am rememebring it correctly...

 

sup guys...this is way off topic but how do u search the forums? evrytime i click on search it tells me that this feature has been temporarily turned off for registered users. Can any1 help?

 

Thanks for the info guys. WAY2FAST95 how much did it cost you to do at ur mechanic?

99MAXSER - You need to be a donating member to get to use the search.

 

Yup, I got a quote for 750 to do mine. I just let it leak until I did the engine swap.

 

DUBBYA was that at a dealership?

 

They will charge you to remove and reinstall the transmission. Dealer's don't just make up a number, it is based on there book rates of how long it takes to do the job. That is an average time, but they still charge it regardless. Let's say there book time says 2 hours to removed the transmission, and 2.5 hrs to reinstall and road test the car. 4.5 hrs total. They have a guy there who has been doing this for years, it takes him 2 hrs total to do everything. Well, that does not matter, because the book rate says 4.5 hrs, so you are getting charged the 4.5 hrs of labor. I know it's listed as longer for the transmission on the max. Nissan dealers SHOULD all quote the same rate, since they all go off the same book, but that's when you will find your shady dealers, or ones willing to cut you a deal = fat chance. Your better off either doing it yourself, or finding a small mom & pop shop that could use the business. While your in there, have them replace the axle seals as well, or they will leak next. Good luck.

 

If you have a manual transmission, might as well change the clutch since you'd have to drop the tranny anyway. Plus the clutch is probably worn out already since you have a 95 and probably at around the same mileage as mine. My clutch went out at 140k miles. The rear main seal is not hard to replace if you have the right tool and once you've taken off everything else. This job is labor intense, and that's where they get you! Mine happened to be leaking by the time the clutch went out.

 

Unless you are leaking a lot of oil, I personally woudn't fix it until it does.

 

And no my quote came from an independant shop.

 

Thanks guys

 

thats crazy talk . . . if you notice a leak there is a good chance it will be cheaper to fix it sooner than later. For instance when my input shaft was leaking , if I hadnt let so much time go by and say it was just a small leak, I could have saved a lot of time and money, and just gotten my transmission replaced instead of my tranny and clutch . . . which soaked up the oil over time and ruined it.

 

Good look MDEEZY. Thanks

 

I agree with MDeezy, letting a problem get worse and expecting the same amount of work versus fixing it at the early stages is fooling noone but themselves. Those guys usually end up paying dearly in the end ending up kicking themselves. Now I can see the point of the other person who just let it go since he's doing an engine swap anyway. That does make sense. Other than that, justifying laziness or whatever you want to call it is not a good reason nor be taken as good advice. Ever seen some people in the forum crying and complaining about how their car has so much problems and they can't seem to catch up to all the things that are breaking? That's because they've neglected the early signs and let things snowball on them. Now that they've finally decided to do something about it, its become an overwhelming task. Fix it right away and watch your car last for a very very long time.

 

I had a small leak form the same spot you are talking about on my altima i use to have. I didnt think much about it untill i had tranny fluid pouring out of my bellhousing and had to replace the my clutch and tranny.

 

i have a rear main seal leak ive had it for about a year... even jeff at maximum tunign said alot of auto max's do it and not to really worry about it. just keep an eye on the fluid levels

 

If it is a manual tranny then you should fix it because the oil wil get onto your clutch and then you will need a new clutch also. If it is an auto then just make sure it is engine oil and not tranny oil and then just keep an eye on the oil level. You will see how much is leaking out. If its not much then it isnt worth the cost of fixing it, just keep on top of the level.

On my '91 the rear mail seal started leaking, but very little. After about 6 months it stopped so ....

 

I would AutoRX it. Members at bobistheoilguy.com (BITOG) have fixed many a rear main seal leak with AutoRX. Go to www.auto-rx.com and BITOG and read up on the use of AutoRX to solve engine leak problems.

 

No way is there any urgent need to fix a very slow rear main seal leak. By low, I mean you are not losing (arbitrarily) more than a quart or two every 3000 miles, and there is no puddle on the ground. So the RMS leaks... big deal. As long as you don't let the engine get precariously low on oil, it is a non-issue. Just check the oil every week or two and add oil as needed. Sure your clutch can get contaminated. Unless you just put in a new clutch recently, use the one you got until it needs to be changed and then fix the RMS while you are at it. Even if you have 15k miles on the clutch, if I were to do the RMS, I would be swapping out the clutch anyways--what with the high cost of labor (or the trouble of doing the job yourself). With low RMS leaks, the oil just drips down and out the weep hole. The flywheel actually shields it some. Before I fixed my RMS, it was leaking for about a year. The back of the flywheel area had lots of oil contamination but the clutch friction surface and pressure plate were completely clean.

 

For thr price of the rear main seal job if you do not do it yourself you are better off finding a low mileage engine for 300 to 400 and gettting it put in instead of fixing an engine with alot of miles

 

That's a lot easier said that done. There are lots of factors involved when you swap engines. In addition, you really won't know the exact condition of the engine until you do a compression test. You can't do a compression test on an engine that is not installed on the car. Your other option is to take it apart and inspect the internals.