This is a little long....So last Friday I Finally got around to installing my Stechs and Illuminas. All went fairly well on the fronts except when I went to put on the struts with springs equipped, I had to put a whole bunch of weight on the hub/rotor in order to fit it in on each side. Not really a big deal. The big deal came when I did the rears. When I went to take the bolt off that holds the strut onto the axle, the peices of metal that are supposed to hold the nut from spinning, they tore up the nut instead. Even after a week of WD-40ing them! This happened on both sides so I got frustrated and whipped out my trusty DeWalt Sawzall and fixed the problem. Which reminds me that I need to go to Nissan and buy some new ones, as I replaced the old ones with thinner bolts. After that, all was fine for the rest of the install. Set them on 5-5 and LOVE them!!

And now for the Knock Sensor! did it today and it came out much easier than I expected and much easier than the new one went in. Took about an hour total and it did eventually go in, the hardest part was getting the bolt started. Took a flashlight, extensions and universal joints, and an extendible magnet tool. I think it felt slightly different, a little louder, maybe a little more pull at higher RPMs, but Definately got rid of hesitation at all RPMs.

 

Are you telling us about your weekend or you trying to say something that worth posting

 

I felt that the setbacks I experienced during my installs and testdrives may have their value, perhaps not to you, but someone.

 

If you had both front wheels off the ground your install would have been a lot easier.
WIth only one wheel off the ground you faught the front sway bar.

For the rears, if the nut spins in the cradel, wedge a screwdriver between the nut and cradel to hold it snug, then back the bolt out.

 

Ok, well that would explain why it required so much effort to push down. I was thinking it was the CV shaft! Yeah, stupid, I know...

Yes, I see how shoving a screw driver in there would work, but I would still have needed to purchase two nuts, but that's still slightly cheaper. My sawzall was just as readily available as a screwdriver, but I also didn't think of it either!

 

I have fought the FSB many of times. I usually disconnect it if im not going to work on the other side. But sometimes its just easier to jack both wheels off the ground.
Out of the 8912388 times I have removed and reinstalled my suspension I have yet to strip the rear bolts and nuts. I have heard it umpteen million times that they strip. I must have supernuts.

I could have come to your house and changed the KS in the time it took you to do it. it can be a *****, but i think i have gotten it down packed. my problem is i always forget what size the socket is. I end up with the wrong one in my hand, smushed under the manifold.

 

It takes me an hour to get to Portland, so yeah you probably could have! I would have thought that the threads in the hole that the bolt goes into would be sunken or rather not there for a quarter inch so that it would sink down in when it's lined up correctly, but no such luck there. That was the main reason it took a while for me, and the fact that I can't fit my hand down there. Thinking about getting the Blehmco Lower Tie bar S-2. Think that is a wise/benefitial investment considering this is maine with severe potholes and frost heaves?


edit: Socket size is 12mm. I remember that from the Stickies/Search! That's right, someone ACTUALLY uses them!!