i was on the highway today and maybe i never noticed it before but when i go about 40-50 when i floor it, my rpm needle jumps to like 6, i hear the engine reving my car car accelerates sooooooooooooooo slow. i don't understand whats going on. is it sopposed to do that or is someting wrong. of the line its all good, it kicks nice, but once i get to this 40mph range even with o/d off its still seems to be laggin. any ideas.

 

does it accel up to 5k rpm?
Sounds like VIAS

 

sound like another VIAS broken here... good luck taking the screws out......

Read this:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=341077

 

hmm...i'm guessing you've got an auto...

looks like the transmission's starting to slip...

 

Tranny slip ... ...

 

Its not the Vias, since the needle flys to 6 quick.... its your trannsmission the clutchs are fried.

 

Slipping tranny

 

I have kind of the same problem. My shifts used to be hard, especially the 1-2, so I did an Auto-RX treatment followed by a dealer tranny flush. Now, the RPMs go up much higher than they did before each shift.

Could this problem have been caused by the treatment/flush?? Any advice on what the issue may be? How do I fix it?

 

oh man i really hope its not my tranny, chipping out 1000 for a new tranny is very very bad. any way to make sure its the tranny.

 

My car did a similar thing sometimes back. Mine would rev high, but would not shift unless I tapped the gas pedal instead of just hitting hard. I took it in and got the coils replaced and it fixed the problem.

 

i had one coild problem so far, that was replaced, i don't have too much money to change five more, so i guess i'll keep driving till the problem will be very obvious

 

Slipping tranny?

 

your clutch is slipping if you have 5spd

 

I think I have the same problem. My check engine light is on and the TCS and SLIP light too.
I have been to the dealer today and he gave me these codes P1320 ING LIGHT PRIMARY ans P0325 KNOCK SENS CIRCUIT BI
I don't know what it means. I have an extented garantee but the dealer would like to check what's the problem with my automatic gear box.

When I push hard on the acceléerator the RPM go up but the gearbox don't shift up. I must push a second time for shifting up... my performances are very very low...

Cna someone help me???

PS: I used to speak french so I'm sorry if I make some mistakes.

 

My guess is it's auto ....
Either way most seem to agree with the tranny slippage theory

 

could be vias...


when you accelerate normally, can you accelerate past 5K, if you hold a gear?

could be just downshifting and getting into the band where an inop VIAS will just cause no acceleration at all.

 

well it seems that i get this problem like after second gear only. i'm not fimiliar with VIAS so i'm gona add more facts right now to hopefully narrow it down. from the start acceleration is awsome. but sometimes it does hesitate. like i would floor it and for the first 1 and a half sec the car would act like you lightly tapping the pedal and then it kicks in and lunches, the second gear also some times hesitates but rarely. but with a third gear, the thing is i see the rpm arrow jump when the car shifts, so i'm not sure if its the tranny. the way it goes is like, i go 40mph i floor it the rpm arrow goes up to like five and keep on going, but the speedometer arrow would barely move. i def feel the car gioing faster. but it dosen't feel like its speeding up at WOT, it feels like you normally driving and little by little accelerating, but when it finally hits like 55-60 some thing along those lines, it shifts into what ever gear, 3rd or 4th i'm not sure. so is there like a way to check that it is my tranny for sure or it is my VIAS.

 

i've got the same issue w/my 2K max--had the dealer run some tests: thought it was the tranny but that checked out--mass air was checked next and that was fine--my problem sometimes happens off the line though where I'm accelerating but it takes a sec before lunging--can get the needle to 5K+, but no definitive answer. In addition, my engine light was on for a while then went off--then just the other day driving in the rain, it popped on again and been on since--tired of taking it in b/c not getting the answer--but one thing and I don't know about you but I've got cattman headers running to random tech cat converter to greddy evo 1 catback: some say b/c the O2 sensors have to be relocated might contribute to the engine light being on....anyway, that my 2cents.

 

Have the codes checked ... ever think of that? AutoZone does it for free ...

 

MAF almost guaranteed,

my bro had same prob, thought everything you all did, but went for the easy quick fix, and no probs since, tranny control gets fudged with lack of measured air flow err something.... clean the maf w/ alcohol or tb cleaner then alcohol or replace it

but he was getting codes like lean or rich and the power would increase as you let off the gas if it would go slow.... hard to explain, but VERY strange anyway


NEW MAF

 

Maf wont let the car rev that high, and not accelerate .


A failing MAF, will creat a bogging sensation, with the engine RPM speed struggling to climb.


IF the motor is revving at 5k, and the car isnt moving fast, sounds like the transmission cannot hold its own.

 

Heh, have to agree.. Tranny slip or you need the clutch replaced.

 

i only mention it because i could MOST DEFINATELY rev my bros car up very high, and thats what turned me off from it being a maf problem, but the maf did fix it(.)

it was very strange though, it revved up high only when you stepped on it hard and let off a little, the common maf rules did not apply.... as if the engine comp was making up for it instantly

 

the starts however were horrible, like bumpy rough and no power, then it would cruise ok around 2500 but i could get it to downshift but no power was there, none, it would shift at 44 or 5k and stay there no matter where i put the gas pedal..... we thought it was the tranny for sure, then a cracked manifold for pressure issues and some other wierd stuff, but we replaced the maf and it was fine..... no problems ever since, 5k miles since

 

so should i go to a transmission mechanic so he would take a look at it, i do have auto by the way. i'll try to clean my maff becuase i'm in denial and hoping its only that. but is there a way to make sure that its my tranny.

 

HMMM Im thinking the tranny (but remember MAxima's tranny last a lot) This has
happened to me before. Does the car jack forward before it shifts? Does it look like youre riding on only two gears? If this is happenening? Let me tell you what happened to me. I took it to several Auto Mechanics and they said it was the tranny. So I bought a used tranny with confirmed 36k mile. Replaced my tranny and the problem persisted. To cut this story short, it was my fuel pump and the MAF. Think about it, if the fuel pump is not supplying enough gas then the car will be acting just the way you described. If you have any more questions, ask me.

 

hmmm, all of this are very good ideas, i think i will go with cleaning my maf if that dosen't work i'll buy a new one, i read a few threads here that the new mafs are better anyway, then i'll look into changing my fuel pump, i'll see how that goes and the i'll move on to the more expensive problem.

 

why not? a MAF can have a normal curve, or at least one that the ECM can compensate for up until a higher RPM and control is lost, or not accounted for due to loop status.


seriously, hold 2nd gear and see what happens at WOT. 1st there isnt enough load.

then try it in 3rd, on the freeway or somewhere where you can get some speed without endangering anyone.


along with suggestions of MAF and fuel pump, id also like to point out that a catalyst failure can cause this symptom

 

arghhhh, why can't nissan just make some computer voice that sounds like a really hot girl and tells you that there is a problem with this part. if my cat failed, i'm def getting a y-pipe

 

i can dress up like a really hot girl and diagnose your car for you, if you want

 

hahaha, i hope you got nice legs

 

...

 

 

hahahahahahahaha

 

Increase in engine speed without a corresponding increase in acceleration = transmission slip, a known issue with 2k's, see TSB on 2nd Gear Slip, etc.

The rest of you who posted about TCS/SLIP lights and P codes, replace the ignition coil that failed (common problem with 2Ks) or better yet, replace all 6 at once.

It's not your fuel pump.
It could be a MAF but unlikely -- does not match typical pattern of symptoms for a blown MAF. Cleaning MAFs does not work most of the time, FYI. You're more likely to damage it than to fix it.

 

do a lot of 5.5 gens have this problem? I have 35K on my 2002 and now im worried something like this will happen. i have an engine nd transmission warranty till 128,000 miles but theres so much that they DONT cover...they cover stuff that will liek never go wrong. i dont drive my car hard a lot..once in awhile and i rarely shift it manually (its an auto)

 

Some do some don't .. get a tranny cooler ..

 

how much does a tranny cooler cost? how effective is that with helping the tranny?/prolonging its life?

 

Trans cooler cost between $200-300 installed by a shop maybe a bit more for a Max -- but it's helpful quite a bit, lowers trans temps which increases the tranny's life. They're invaluable in racing and towing, and if you run your Max full-on a lot of the time, it can't hurt to keep the ATF cooler.

 

WOW...the exact same thing happened to my 1995 Maxima SE yesterday! THIS IS RIDICULOUS! Ok, so I was trying to install my new cold air intake. This: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-99...QQcmdZViewItem AND I just couldn't figure out a way for it to fit with the temperature sensor and the bypass and all. So I put the stock intake back together, and then the check engine light was on. It used to accelerate from 0-60 in 6.9s STOCK. I'm not even kidding, it was awesome. But NOW, if I floor it at around 40-50mph, then the revs go almost to 7, and the car does not jet forward like it used to. Any suggestions? Is this the same problem as before?

BTW, please e-mail me or PM me if you know of any cold air intakes that cost below $70 and will be compatible and fit in my 1995 Maxima SE. Thanks.