help! rough/no starting but no codes
help! rough/no starting but no codes
I having problems with my car starting. it has been having a hard time starting for several months. The other day the car wouldnt start at all. I had it towed to my buddys shop but we are still having a hard time figuring it out. so far we determined the cylinder 2 isnt getting a spark consistently. coil pack is ok and we checked the continuity from the harness to the plug on coil pack which was also ok. What else should cause it? Please don't tell me I need a new ecu. I dont get any codes for a cylinder misfire so we are stumped.
we took coil out of #2 and put a plug in it and held again engine and looked for spark then did same thing from another cylinder and it sparked more consistently. then swapped coils between the two cylinders and #2 still had poor spark.
Originally Posted by zx2max
we took coil out of #2 and put a plug in it and held again engine and looked for spark then did same thing from another cylinder and it sparked more consistently. then swapped coils between the two cylinders and #2 still had poor spark.
Btw, a bad CPS/CmPS will affect timing.. don't ignore that advice...
Yes, we've swap plugs and used new ones. The grn/rd wire going from the ECU to coil #2 is spiratically working we checked resistance in harness and is fine. (doing the jiggle test and everything) I hope its not a bad ECU! (97' SE)
the check engine light is on and it was on before i started having this starting problem. i am throwing codes for egrc solenoid and evap vent control valve but i dont think either one of those codes could cause my car not to start.
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If your plugs come out smelling like fuel then your missing a good, correctly timed spark.
If your plugs come out clean and dry you have no fuel.
Fuel delivery timing is controlled by the camshaft angle sensor.
Ignition & timing is controlled by crank position sensors POS and REF.
POS is under the car on the tranny bell housing and it looks at the flywheel.
REF is on the main crank pully, you can get to it by turning the steering wheel full right and removing the inner splash shield in the right wheel well.
My guess is CPS POS, if it goes bad you will definately get a crank with no start, your spark plugs will be soaked with fuel after several attempts to start the car if that's the case.
If your plugs come out clean and dry you have no fuel.
Fuel delivery timing is controlled by the camshaft angle sensor.
Ignition & timing is controlled by crank position sensors POS and REF.
POS is under the car on the tranny bell housing and it looks at the flywheel.
REF is on the main crank pully, you can get to it by turning the steering wheel full right and removing the inner splash shield in the right wheel well.
My guess is CPS POS, if it goes bad you will definately get a crank with no start, your spark plugs will be soaked with fuel after several attempts to start the car if that's the case.
just because you have continuity doesnt mean the wire isnt grounding someplace. Trace the #2 coil harness wire as far back as you can and make sure it's intact. I had starting problems for months. The car would crank and crank and just take a long time to start. It turned out to be the Start Signal being inactive due to a bad ignition switch.
Ever since then I always check for Start Signal when diagnosing intermittent hard starting
Ever since then I always check for Start Signal when diagnosing intermittent hard starting
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