Well I replaced my balljoint/control arm w/ bushing this weekend in hopes that it would solve the knocking/clunking noise I hear & feel on left turns as well as on some bumps, but it didn't.

I had replaced my strut bearings earlier this year so that is no the culprit either. My CV boot looks fine, there is no leaks either. The strut appears to be in good condition. I checked all strut bolts to make sure that they were torqued correctly.

Does anyone know what would cause this noise? Remember it happens on left turns primarly, but also over some bumps in a straight line.

Thanks

 

I'm thinking bad strut or spring noise because of possible metal to metal contact.

 

Maybe the strut itself is worn/defective?

 

I highly doubt it is the strut...I have been getting this noise since early this year and now it is just getting much worst.
I took apart the suspension this past may and checked the struts...they seemed fine with no leaks, and they were still showed a lot of resistance when trying to compress them. Definitely not spring noise either, as I have put isolation sleeves on a lot of the coils, and spring slap sounds totally different than the hard/deep clunk/knock I am getting. I am starting to think it is axle related ??

One suggestion I got was that the spring may not be seated properly...but I ensured this would not happen when re-installing :Confused:.

 

the spring not being seated is good idea... but i mean any shop or even us doing it ouselves cant really mess it up.. i mean the spring has to be in that little groe aorund the sturt... its pretty hard to mess up but then again tehre are mechanics.. and orgers that are pretty ****ed up when doing car stuff... hehhe..

.... is it like some sort of like wound up CLUNK while turning...

like your turning and u might hear a little deep sqeek then clunk....

well anyhow.. it might be you strut mount bearing.... you can ge thte bearing from dealer i think like 20$ i had this issue...

once lowered it the bearings tak ea beating of a lifetime... i had to replacwe mine 2x... cause 1st time i never drove lowered car extensivly.. so i didnt know how to avoid things... 2nd time.. .i jsut landed in some bad holes.. now there fine... cause i sorta know how to avoid crap.. hehe.


what happenes is ur springs arnt turning with the wheel so then the tension builds up and then CLUNK... the sprin snaps and turns... have someone turn the wheel while ur looking at hte spring while the car is on its own 4 feet and not on lift.... then see if the spring jumps and snaps... or thats what happenes...

also if the bearing on teh mount goes bad it can move the spring out of its proper seating.. it can jump the groove in teh strut...

PS. i dont know if it called a grove .. its sort of liek a dent... in the pan aorund the mid of the strut.... correct me if anyoen knows propper name..

im no mechaninc.. but this sounds like my expernience and im relaying info to you...

also the knocking i expereinced was from spring contact.. common problem on our cars.. i tried getting the spring isolators from dealer.. they worked.. but there made out of a waxy plastic that wore down and broke after a while.. my solution was discovered at the shop while i was chanign my brakes... i saw a hose that would fit around the spring perfectly... it was soem heavy duty super duper hose....

so i cut a peice that would be long enough for 1 coil and then slit that piece in a sprial design... like the sprial thing in front of oldschool barbershops... then put it aroudn teh second or third most coil from the mount...

you can see which spring makes the contact cause the spring it self will have paint wear on it... and then cover that coil with most wear.. covering 1 coild ensures the 3 coils wont make contact cause the one above and below the covered coil cant toucht e covered coil...

wow... i need to start using sentences... and stop with these freakin "....."

Srry about the "..." but i guess you can understand what im saying...

 

I was thinking maybe the internal bearing surfaces in the strut itself were worn. The only way to tell would be to remove the strut from the car & put a fairly strong side to side load on it to check for free play. Not sure you could do this by hand.

 

I feel for the other King. I have the same problem but with left side noises while turning right. I also have a hum while driving straight. The crunching during right turns is loud and seems to be related to the sopeed the wheel is turning.

I put it on a lift and found some play in the axle (turn one side a little while the other end stayed stationary. I replaced the axle last week and the noise improved a little but is still there. Its loud and I can almost feel it pounding. Its driving me nuts.

Could it be a broken motor mount allowing the engine to shift while turning and puting pressure on the axle or something else? Any other ideas?

 

Same problems here.... STILL...

Loud clunking coming from either side of the front end depending on which tire goes over a bump. Constant squeaking while driving even from minor imperfections in the road.

Clunking is also heard when the weight of the car shifts due to a sharp turn, sudden acceleration from a dead stop or sudden breaking.

So far I've replaced both front struts, the lower control arms/bushings/balljoints on both sides, as well as inner and outer tie rod ends on both sides. The only result from doing so is that the car handles more responsively and with less effort.... but with all the squeaking and clunking, I'm embarassed to drive it.

A couple of nights ago I was sitting at a light while driving home from a buddy's house and a 95-96 Max drove past me heading in the opposite direction... his car was making the same squeaking and clunking sounds as mine... this seems to be a pretty common thing.

I just can't figure it out....

 

i had a problem where the metal part that covers the rotor was bent inward a little and was hitting the wheel or rotor. i doubt that is it. but that maybe the problem. it probably is the halfshaft that needs to be replaced. i'm about to replace mine soon, but there just isn't a good enough write-up even with the motorvate and haynes manual...

 

Had the same problem. Turned out to be the strut insulator.
Pop your hood and bounce the car. Observe the top of the strut. If the top of the strut moves around laterally, it's the insulator.

 

OK King, I've got what I hope is your solution. I had what sounfds like the same problem on my driver's side. Its been plagueing me for weeks and I recently replaced the axle w/o much change. I went out today and tightened the crap out of the hub locking nut and POW - the noise went away. I don't have a torque wrench so I tightened it as well as I could. The flippin noise is gone and now I'm going to use the money I saved on repairs to buy a good torque wrench. Torque that SOB to 200 lbs. I think the spec is something like 180 - 210 lbs. Check your nut to see if its on that tight. If not then tighten it and see if that solves your problem or at least makes a difference. Mine was on tight and made tons of noise. I turned it no more than 1/8 turn and it made all the difference in the world. Also, could be that riding with a looser nut allowed damage to the axle. You may have to replace the axle to see a big difference. My axle is a week old.

That's my recent experience anyways. Hope it helps.

 

have same problem...

 

I had a similar issue, it was a bad motor mount (rear)

 

Wow those are some irritating problems you guys are having.

 

I tried this yesterday when I got home from work.... I noticed immediately that the top of the driver side strut was not exactly in the center of the strut mount. When I bounced the car I watched it move around and around and I saw and heard where the squeaking is coming from.

The passenger side looks to be okay, but it does squeak just the same, and so I'm going to have both mounts replaced today.

Question, will I need an alignment after replacing the strut mounts?

 

I have the same 1999 maxima I finally went to dealer and they looked at it them selves they told me it was from my BRAJES . they are all rusted. I have yet to change the Brakes so do not know if this will stop the promlem???

 

I'm pretty sure it's the axle - I had the exact same thing. If the CV boot gets a rip in it then the grease comes out and thats why you get the knocking when you turn and not going straight.

 

Naw. You shouldn't need an alignment for just swapping the mount.

 

This is something that I would try to look into as well.
I have now had both of my cv boots rip and I have about 125k miles.
They are not that expensive to do.
It could just be caused from a rock hitting them or something, but when you hear the popping, you need to go ahead and get them replaced.

Look under your fender(in the wheel well) and see if there is some grease flung everywhere. If so, you need to replace the axle part, cv joint and boot.

Hope this works...

 

But my CV boot is perfect and there is no signs anywhere of greese flying from it...you still think it is the axle/CV joint?

 

I replaced Tie Rod ends, struts, ball joints and still getting the clunk noice when go over the speed bump - even at slow speed. I ended up replace the Strut mounts (from NAPA) and strut bearing. It this does not work I plan to get to the control arms + bushings after that. But I did not have to since the strut mounts replacement solve most of the noise. Stangly enough when I replaced the struts, ball joints, and the outer tie rod ends, the streeing feels fine. When I came back a month later to replace the strut mounts and bearings, the car pull badly. So I went for an alignment this morning and all are fine.

 

This is good to hear, I'm having my strut bearings and mounts replaced as we speak. I made the mistake of replacing my struts earlier this year WITHOUT knowing that I also should've been replacing the bearing and mounts.

Hopefully I'll get her back today and be able to drive without hearing all that noise!

 

I didn't read the entire thread past this post so I don't know if you figured it out or not (I'm in a hurry to get somewhere and don't have time to read the entire thing now) but it could STILL be the CV joint even if the CV boot is fine. I ruined an inner CV joint installing an axle about a month and a half ago when I was putting it in. Basically I twisted the axle without it being all the way seated, what I mean is that I had the CV joint stretched out (you know how the axles can expand and contract in length? well I had mine not compacted all the way, it was "longer" than it normally is when it's fully installed.)

The best way I can describe what happened is what happens when you dislocate your hip or shoulder. It sortof twisted itself out of socket, you could see the internal parts of the CV joint poking out of the boot (not poking through, but they were out of place, pressed firmly up against the rubber boot). I was able to twist it back the other way and it went back into place, and seemed fine, but it wasnt.

After a couple hundred miles I started hearing a clunking from the left (passenger) side that only was apparent when I turned right, the more I drove the worse it got until it started making the entire car shudder and shake on right hand turns. I was out of town but elected to buy a new axle out of town and install it at my friend's house. It hasn't made the noise since. It sounds like what you are describing may be the same issue. Maybe you or whoever installed it did the same thing that I did.

 

That sounds exactly what the case may be with my car. When we were doing my suspension for the first time, we didnt put a stand underneath the whole brake/rotor assembly and it caused the whole cv assembly to stretch just like how you described here...an actual pic here:



Looks like I am going to have to replace the axle w/ CV to cure the problem.

 

That is exactly what mine looked like when mine was messed up. I don't know what's going on inside the axle because I haven't bothered to pull the boot off, but you did the same thing I did basically. Doing that messes up something that requires axle replacement apparently.

 

The axle shouldn't need to be replaced. The axle is just no longer seated properly in the cv joint. There is a retaining ring that sits about a half inch from the end of the axle. I had a hell of a time getting it back in because the retaining ring bent slightly. you're probably driving around with it only part way in.

 

No... you aren't understanding my issue. I'm well aware of the retaining ring and how it works, and what happens if the axle isn't seated all the way in the transmission. That is not the problem I described. Read my posts again and look at the pictures he posted. The inner CV joint was ruined by being pulled apart. The axle was still seated in the transmission perfectly.

 

maybe its ball bearing?

 

I've got the clunking when turning left. I have very good reason to believe the right side got screwed up durring a recent clutch replacment. Also when i first let the clutch out after breaking and coming to a stop there is a clunk (like the axle has some play) before the car starts to move so I am almost certain I need a new axle. Or maybe my car is about to explode... would be the last straw...

 

yeah I get some kind of clunking noises too from the front end when turning the wheel and driving at low speed. Any ideas?

 

I would check the strut mount. I had severe clunking noises and it turned out that the rubber bushings in my strut mounts were rotted away. I would also have the strut bearing check. One other problem that I had before with my car is the Hub bearing. When my hub bearing was bad, it would make clunking and metal on metal noises when I hit the brakes, bumps, and/or turns.

 

ladies and gentlemen, your problem, if you have this sound coming from turning, will most likely be from a bad wheel bearing. I have that same problem on my car. When i'm on the highway at least, and hit a turn at at least 60 mph, there is a sound coming from the right wheel. If you get a good mechanic, he'll put the car on the lift and have you drive it at that particular speed and have you turn the wheel. You listen to either side for sounds with a ste thoscope. But remember, wheel bearing.

 

Having the same problem but only when I have the wheel fully rotated to the right and then turning back like when your trying to Parallel park.

I don't have any noises when going over bumps or going in a straight line.

Is this a spring problem?

 

Alright so the problem has been fixed. As nealoc187 said, the axle/cv have to be replaced. The noise is gone. The end.

 

I am glad to read its fixed. These noises can be ANNOYING. I just replaced my wheel bearing to get rid of one of these nasty noises :-D

 

Seriously, especially when you are throwing money at random parts that don't fix it (ie my first attempt by replacing my control arm/balljoint)!

 

I have been going through this myself.

New struts, mounts, bearings and boots. Recent bushings, tierods etc.

Nothing lowered, stock springs.

I have a clunk only when going slow over little pavement bumps or when I turn the wheel left or right. There is NO play in the wheel. Even with the engine off, the clunk happens when turning the wheel, but with the slightest movement of the steering wheel, the tires move.

When I had the new struts put on, the noise was gone for a couple of months and now it's back and getting worse.

One guy thought maybe the rack was the problem, but he had said that when by strut bearings were "crunking" when turning the wheel - so I take him with a gain of salt.

Thoughts?

 

Reviving an older thread here since it's the closest resemblance to the issue I currently have. Apologize for the length though.

Car: 1998 Maxima SE with Auto VLSD transmission and ~185,000 miles

Issue: When travelling at highway speeds through gradual left turns (overpasses, etc.) and when the steering wheel is turned left, I hear a consistent rotational knocking that is not quite in sync with the speed of the wheel. On gradual right turns including at highway speed, the knocking is faint or non-existent.

Repair history related to suspension/axle:
2011
-Passenger side CV axle boot torn (Nissan OEM), some clicking noise. Replacement axle installed (NAPA Reman), no noise either knocking or clicking, but boot torn again. Another replacement axle installed (NAPA Reman), no noise clicking or knocking. Axle nut torqued to 210 ft-lbs
-Front lower control arm assemblies replaced (Nissan OEM). Torqued to spec as per FSM
-Laser alignment done at local shop (Snap-On machine). All settings within spec

2013
-Driver side rear bearing assembly replaced (Timken). Nut torqued to 220 ft-lbs

2014
-Front and rear Tokico Blue struts installed with all new bushings, isolators, bearings & mounts (Nissan OEM). Everything torqued to spec as per FSM.
-Inner and Outer tie rods + boots replaced (Nissan OEM)
-Sway bar links and bushings (Nissan OEM)
-Laser alignment done at Nissan Dealership (Hunter machine). All settings within spec
-Driver side axle torn boot (Nissan OEM) Replacement axle installed (SurTrack New). No clicking. Axle nut torqued to 210ft-lbs

Current diagnosis:
The knocking noise became noticeable sometime in 2012, but was hard to replicate every time at those gradual left turns. Since then the noise has become louder and is replicable every time. It has not changed/diminished with the repairs done up to today.

I am running with the stock 16's and have been through 2 sets of tires (Hunter Road Force balanced) and all kinds of tire rotations since the issue started.

I do changeover to 205/65/15 winter tires on hub centric steel wheels in the winter. This does seem to change the sound of the knocking making the left turns sound less aggressive.

After recently changing the driver side axle, the knocking noise got much more louder/noticeable.

There is vibration in the steering wheel when driving at highway speeds even after having the wheels balanced and alignment completed in the summer (2014) after the suspension overhaul.

The inner and outer CV boots are not deformed or ripped and there is no clicking when turning sharply left or right.

No knocking or clunking when travelling straight or over any type of bumps. No noises when moving the steering wheel side to side quickly.

No noticeable sounds coming from rear of the car after having passenger listen/feel in the back.

No humming or whining that increases with speed (the rear driver side bearing that I replaced did exhibit this and it sounded like a motorcycle was behind me when driving).

Raising the car and trying to move both the passenger and driver wheels at the 12 and 6 o’clock position does not net any noticeable play.

I do not see anywhere where the axles would have/be rubbing against anything while driving.

I have not tested spinning the wheels with both wheels up in the air and the transmission in neutral to listen and feel for grinding.

The motor mounts and transmission mount are still stock.

Conclusions:
At the moment, I feel that the driver side wheel bearing is the culprit.

This does go against the traditional diagnosis for wheel bearings though. When turning left and there is noise, it would indicate your passenger side wheel bearing is bad due to the load being placed on the hub.

What’s also pushing me toward the driver side wheel bearing is that after replacing the driver side axle, the knocking noise got louder. In addition, when changing to my winter tires, the knocking is diminished.

But, through reading through others experiences, it could be the passenger side CV axle, one of the motor or transmission mounts, passenger side wheel bearing or worst case, the drive axle bearing in the transmission.

Given the age of the vehicle, cost of parts in Canada (Nissan OEM) and labour required to change the wheel bearing, just trying to see if anyone else has experience a similar issue so that it doesn’t turn into me throwing parts at the problem or changing the wrong part.

 

Axle head

 

You've replaced everything suspension related so I think the bearing is you next up. But don't just throw parts at it, do some work first. Remove the axle and brake pads, the wheel will spin very freely. At this point you can easily feel the beatings condition. If it feels rough at all or binds, doesn't spin very smoothly, replace it. If it feels good, put it back together and keep looking.